Did Anyone Try This?

I am trying to do everything I can to prevent percolation and vapor lock. I will also have a 1/2" phenolic carb spacer, carb heat shield, and insulate all fuel lines. Thank you!

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Are percolation and vaporlock, real problems in Camarillo?
A good way to get rid of underhood heat is a big 7-blade fan on a thermostatic fan-clutch, AND fresh cold air to the carb.
The fresh air alone will make a HUGE difference.Undehood air can reach several hundred degrees with headers acting like pretty good radiators, Aluminum heads will also radiate a lot of heat.
The big fan will push a lot of heat underneath and away from the car.
Between those two, I solved all my heat issues. But up here we rarely have temps over 99*F, and only for about a week in summer, Two tops. No other heat-busting ideas were employed.
The bonus of the fresh air was a solid stable,dependable,700rpm with a 230 cam and 14* idle timing; and a 93mph trap speed in the 1/8th. If you are having heat related issues, get fresh air, whatever it takes! Sucking air at 250 plus degrees.......SUX ! Besides, you can't make decent power on that air, and it will cost you at least one grade of gas. This should be important on all SBMs but especially the smaller ones. Carbs do not come calibrated for hot air.
I run the Mopar P4007040 HO-pump, right out of their catalog, no return and all bare steel to the 750DP on an AG with just the 1/4 inch gasket. I used 3/8 steel line from the 3/8 sender, with a large canister EFI filter mounted just ahead of the Passenger side, front spring perch. 125,000 miles, and since 2000, and still going.
Oh Yeah, I have never run anything but 87E10 on the street, AND with a 10.97 starter gear(4-speed)I can drag the engine idle down to 550 rpm, about 3.5 to 4 mph,walking speed, and the car will pull itself around on flat hard pavement. Now that's a solid stable dependable idle!