Casting your own tail light lens
this is on a $100-$390 printer after add-on
this is supposed to be a $1500 plus printer and not chemically finished
a youtube video of the cold acetone finishing procedure (yes details are lost if your not careful)
(I'm not going to talk about the horror of designing the retroreflectors ) It is just soooo much easier to make a 2 part mold casting of the original NOS one. No extra smoothing or sanding other than getting rid of the sprues and flash on the edges but at the same or just a bit lower cost to have a 3d printer do it for youNo it should not get destroyed or damaged if you wax the heck out of it so the rubber does not stick to it anywhere. I have done a dozen different types of lenses for 30's and 40's cars and haven't lost a lens yet.
materials needed are:
(got mine from Alumalite because of cheaper shipping. but smooth-on works too!)
OOMOO® Series 25 or 30 is a 1 to 1 ratio and no degassing required. Smooth-on
1. Clay to hold the bottom of the model you want to cast while making the 2 part mold (3.00-5.00)
2. some way to contain the rtv (I used leggo's, stole em from the grandkids)
3. wax or spray release agent (get the correct one for your product) 15.00 to 20.00 Ease Release® 205
4. RTV (trial size might be enough 35.00)
5. Clear Resin UV resistant (trials size will do a set of lens) 29.00-49.00
different types for different thickness of plastic resin and gram scale required.
7 assorted cups mixing paddles and cleanup materials.
mine was about 115.00 and I got 4 tail light lenses and 6 license plate light covers from the trial size of everything except the RTV(needed 2 since the lens was 11" long and curved 4" upwards)
the higher quality the printer the smoother the output, BUT you will have to almost go to an expensive professional type printer to get the type of surface quality you would need for a tail light lens. here is the print of $100 to $600 printer that is most common. yes you can smooth it out using chemicals depending on the filament but they all need work @ below the really expensive pro printers.
this is on a $100-$390 printer after add-on
this is supposed to be a $1500 plus printer and not chemically finished
a youtube video of the cold acetone finishing procedure (yes details are lost if your not careful)
(I'm not going to talk about the horror of designing the retroreflectors ) It is just soooo much easier to make a 2 part mold casting of the original NOS one. No extra smoothing or sanding other than getting rid of the sprues and flash on the edges but at the same or just a bit lower cost to have a 3d printer do it for youNo it should not get destroyed or damaged if you wax the heck out of it so the rubber does not stick to it anywhere. I have done a dozen different types of lenses for 30's and 40's cars and haven't lost a lens yet.
materials needed are:
(got mine from Alumalite because of cheaper shipping. but smooth-on works too!)
OOMOO® Series 25 or 30 is a 1 to 1 ratio and no degassing required. Smooth-on
1. Clay to hold the bottom of the model you want to cast while making the 2 part mold (3.00-5.00)
2. some way to contain the rtv (I used leggo's, stole em from the grandkids)
3. wax or spray release agent (get the correct one for your product) 15.00 to 20.00 Ease Release® 205
4. RTV (trial size might be enough 35.00)
5. Clear Resin UV resistant (trials size will do a set of lens) 29.00-49.00
different types for different thickness of plastic resin and gram scale required.
- Crystal Clear® 202 - 1⁄16" - ½" (.16 cm - 1.25 cm) thick.
- Crystal Clear® 200 - ½" - 3" (1.25 cm - 7.5 cm) thick.
- Crystal Clear® 204 - 3" - 6" (7.5 cm - 15.25 cm) thick.
- Crystal Clear® 206 - greater than 6" (15.25 cm) thick.
7 assorted cups mixing paddles and cleanup materials.
mine was about 115.00 and I got 4 tail light lenses and 6 license plate light covers from the trial size of everything except the RTV(needed 2 since the lens was 11" long and curved 4" upwards)
