Torque converter question......am I crazy?

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d55dave

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Here is the deal. Last year I threw together the drivetrain in my car, here are the specs. 55 Dodge weighs 4000 lbs. Ford 8.8 with 3.73 gears. I run a 26" tall slick at the track. Engine is a smog era 440 with strip dominator (single plane) intake, holley 750 vac sec, full length tube headers and 2 1/2 duals. The cam is probably too big...... .536/.540 lift, 238/244 duration at .050. When i put it together I used an old and well used converter of unknown make and origin. Not sure if it is 9 or 10", it stalled at 3500 or higher. The converter packed it in at the end of last summer and filled the trans with crap.

Presently I am swapping on some closed chamber big valve heads with some port work by a good head guy, hoping to have 8.5:1 comp with the smog pistons, rebuilding the trans with a shift kit (will remain auto), bolt in sprag etc. and governor weights so it should shift at 5400 at wide open throttle.

I hope to have 400 to 450 horse?

I try to do things on a budget and putting two kids through university there are not a lot of extra funds. The drivetrain was put together on a dime.

I have a fresh TCI 143500 8" converter......supposed to stall up to 5000 or higher. If I used it what could I expect. Am I crazy? Bear in mind I like raunchy cars and dont mind a loose converter.....but dont want to be cruising around at 5000 rpm all the time. I drive the car as much as possible in the summer and bracket race as well.

My theory is that my low hp smogger engine will not be able to stall the converter as high as a 600 or 700 hp engine.

Thoughts?
 
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Even if it flashes 5k you won't be driving around at 5k. The last three converters I've had all flashed over 5k and I drove them a lot. It may not be ideal but if you can't have it re stalled or trade it, run it.

BTW put a good dual plane on it, you'll be happy you did.
 
Even if it flashes 5k you won't be driving around at 5k. The last three converters I've had all flashed over 5k and I drove them a lot. It may not be ideal but if you can't have it re stalled or trade it, run it.

BTW put a good dual plane on it, you'll be happy you did.
That is a great idea as I have the intake off right now. I do have a 69 cast iron intake....probably better than the single plane.

Ridiculous? Yep the combo sure is, but that is how I roll. Hot rodding with used parts on a budget. If money were no issue it wouldnt be any fun, LOL

Anyone want to trade a good single plane for an aluminum dual plane?
 
Depending on the LSA on the cam, I'd install that thing way ahead to get some grunt.

The converter will work OK. Hopefully it's on the tighter side for an 8" piece.
 
Not sure what the LSA on the cam is. It is an old Engle piece, HE 3844BL. Anyone know where I can get a cam card? And yes, I advanced the cam 4 degrees. The car was respectable around town last year......I will see what options come up but will likely end up trying the converter. Wouldnt a dual plane be better with the heavy car, or does the gear ratio and loose converter make up for it?
 
So, I had my converter cut open to see if it was worth saving. I dont think so.....

Converter Feb21 2017.JPG


Converter2 Feb21 2017.JPG
 
I have sold the TCI converter and purchased locally a lightly used Hughes 24-40 converter. Does anyone have any experience with the Hughes converters?
 
I have sold the TCI converter and purchased locally a lightly used Hughes 24-40 converter. Does anyone have any experience with the Hughes converters?


I would have sent the TCI back and had them work on it rather then buy a used converter.

Your pictures show a "lightly used" converter.

There are certain things I never buy used. Aluminum rods are one of them. Converters are another.
 
Hey Dave ur inbox is full. P/m me on converter and intake if ur interested in a trade. Kim
I think that ur car is too heavy for as 5000 convertor, and you`ll be sorry before its over with, if u drive it much on the street !!
 
Update.

So I put it all together with the 8" converter and couldn't be happier with the set up. Honestly, driving around town it just feels like a mild high stall converter. The revs come up to around 1500 when pulling away from a stop and the car drives normally. Under more spirited driving they might come up to 2500 to 3000, unless I really get on it.

There is no excessive heat or ill effects of the loose converter. Is it a ridiculous combo? If you want your car to drive like a honda I suppose so. Personally I like loud muscle cars with lumpy cams and tire frying performance.

This 4000 pound car behaves well in traffic, doesn't overheat, and with a worn out low compression bottom end runs 13.4s at 99.5 with 1.8s 60 foot times.
 
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