Tuning a Proform/Holley carb, what parts and tools?

FWIW I agree with Crackedback. Those things are nice, but not needed. Just be careful and use a big bladed screw driver and a box wrench. For a catch can, I use sardine cans or whatever. Sometimes I place under the bowl screw a triangular plate with two sides bent up.

In one of those Urich books I'm pretty sure he mentions 'killing' the adhesive a bit on the gaskets. Good tip. The brown Holley gaskets are pretty sticky. The blue ones not so much.

Depending on your patience, I'd buy gaskets but hold off on parts until you know what you need. That is, unless you plan on doing lots of this. In that case then it makes sense to have a large stash of parts.

Gaskets: Buy 10 packs for the Bowl and meter block. Much better pricing than 2 packs. If you can't find them from a speed shop, try A..'zon.
One rebuild kit can be useful in case you need bowl screw gasket/washers, accel pump diaphrams and check valves, power valve gaskets, and inlet gaskets.

Lemme add this friendly tip. Do not use nylon or rubber gaskets. Nylon flows when the engine compartment gets real hot. It normally doesn't get that hot, but when it does, let me tell you, its very annoying. Rubber types hopefully aren't even offered anymore but if they are stay away.

To figure out what parts you *might* need to swap, you might need a set of tiny drills to measure the restrictions sizes. The main jets are stamped, the others may or may not be. And any pressed in ones are definately not.

Take the bowls and metering blocks off and 'map out' the carb while its off. It makes life easier to do this first. Those books will help ID the restrictions and jets. Do both Primary and Secondary ides something along the following.
I'll note [common abreviations] with each one which will answer your question to CB.
* Are things to track while tuning. Make a little table of the amount of transfer slot visible below the throttle relative to each 1/4 or half turn in on the idle speed screw.

Float inlet valve size. (not critical but good to know)

*Idle Mix Screws (turns out from seated)
* Turns in of the idle speed/ throttle stop screw
* Transfer slot visible

Idle Feed Restriction [IFR]
Idle Air Bleed [IAB]

Main Jet [MJ]
Main Air Bleed [MAB] also called High Speed Air Bleed [HSAB]
Emulsions Holes [e-holes] quantity, diameter.
Kill Bleed (if present)

Power Valve Channel Restriction [PVCR]
Power Valve [PV] (opening point)

Accelerator Pump (size)
Accelerator Pump Cam (color and/or number)
Pump Cam postion (which hole the screw is in)
Accelerator Pump Shooters (type & size)

Now with the above, you'll have a better idea of what size jets etc you might need to make a change.
-----------
I bought my micro drill set from McMaster and use the shanks as a gage. Of course a real pin gage is better. Here's some more sources http://racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org/Numbered_drill_bit_sets_about126.html