Tuning a Proform/Holley carb, what parts and tools?

* Good photos of IFR relocated back to submerged position.
I mentioned it because most of us who get deeper into testing and tuning come around to recognizing how helpful it is. But OTH I realize that most people have some trepidation about doing surgery on a new carburetor, and also more tools and things to buy and learn to use.

* I agree AFR gage can be helpful. Logging AFR with RPM and/or Vacuum and/or throttle position is even better. Nowadays you can probably set up a cell phone to video record.. OTH not a magic bullet, especially if the carb has weird characteristics or timing is way off. The AFR gage is really an O2 sensor, so it can give erroneous AFR in some sitations. Anyway, you can tune without it especially at idle and off idle (street use). Spark plugs etc reveal a lot the old fashioned way as you already can see.

*"Street Carb" Probably how they label their carbs that come with a choke.

FWIW. The old (read I can't find it on he website anymore but saved a copy) BarryGrant/Demon selection guide suggests a initial timing for an engine that size between 16-20 BTDC, if the cam has less than 240 degrees at .050; and 18-20 degrees as a starting point if it has 240-260 @ 50. If you're already in range, then go ahead start messing with the carb - one change at a time!

I'd start with one size smaller IFRs on all 4 corners. Or if that's too much work right now, experiment with one step larger IABs on the primary side only. Drive around, note if there's any hesitation while very slowly increasing the throttle from idle to 1/3. You can also do this in neutral as Urich recommends but its much harder (for us mortals) to observe a hesitation without the load on it.

*Floats. Another option and easy to experiment with. Try turning them a hex flat or two lower and see what effect it has, if any that you can observe. Lower should be slightly leaner.

"Should be" Carbs don't always do what we think they should do.