Mechanical or electrical fuel pump

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Why is electric BS? Every modern car runs one and many of them are in service for over 100,000 miles without issue.

Submersible is the best and makes zero noise. The loudest one I had was a holley black and once the car was running you didn't hear it anymore. The car wasn't that loud.

I've had way more problems with mechanical pumps. But that's just me.
 
I have always gone with Carter vane pumps. Instant carb fill with no heat transfer from the hot engine. At high altitude you have to keep the fuel as cold as you can. That is also why I run Thermoquads on everything. Holley float bowls hanging over hot manifolds mean heat soak, boiling fuel and ruined rings at our altitude.
 
A piss poor engine will have a BSFC of .5 and that is high by any standard.

A good mechanical pump will run into the 10's if the rest of the system is up to it.

If the OP is making 500 HP and his BSFC is .45 under load he would need 225 pounds per hour of fuel or about 34.5 gallons of fuel per hour or .6 of a gallon per minute.

AJ should verify my math but I think it correct.
 
I have always gone with Carter vane pumps. Instant carb fill with no heat transfer from the hot engine. At high altitude you have to keep the fuel as cold as you can. That is also why I run Thermoquads on everything. Holley float bowls hanging over hot manifolds mean heat soak, boiling fuel and ruined rings at our altitude.


Tijeras is pretty high, but I like it. Pretty nice place. Hell, I liked all of NM I saw.
 
I ran a 440-6 with .550 solid roller in my 70 Charger using mechanical and stock 3/8 line.

Low 12s @ 116 mph....shifting @ 6800 in a 4000lb car with driver.

No issues

Yeah, I went 12 flat with 3/8. You know what is funny? They say AN8 line is 1/2 but it sure isn't on the inside. It is much closer to 3/8 steel tubing. And 1/2 ALUMINUM tubing is closer to AN10 and wayyyyyy cheaper. That's what I ran on my 11.0 Duster in the 90's.
 
Sounds like you have some other problem. Mechanical pump with a Holley on mine and I rarely ever have to crank it for more than three seconds even if I have not started it in a month.
I might get some guff for my suggestion of the Carter silver electric pumps. I use two(one as a backup or both when partying). I have frame canister filters before pumps and -8 line up to a regulator. Besides the fact they are old tech they are unaffected by modern lousy gas and the psi won't upset floats. Just a thought.
 
Getting to that time where I need to decide whether I'm going to run a mechanical fuel pump off the engine or put in an electric fuel pump... the motor will probably be pushing a little over 500 horsepower on the street with a Quick Jet SS-760 carburetor

what's the pros and cons?
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Go for the mechanical pump, but use a metered-orifice, 3 nipple fuel filter after the pump hooked to a return line to the tank Also insulate the fuel lines when they pass anywhere near heat, especially when near the motor. 3/8 feed and 1/4" return is more than adequate.

With your mild build, it's the quiet, reliable and inexpensive way to go.

If you do go for an electric pump, be sure to wire it in using relays, a low oil pressure cutoff switch and a bypass switch to allow for priming.

Modern cars no longer use return style systems. They use deadhead systems with a PWM (pulse width modulated) fuel pump controller that is managed by the ECM, which you don't have.

A lot of guys throw a high-volume, in-tank electric pump in their fuel tank and run a traditional bypass style regulator up front. This works well for short duration drag racing type use, but on a street car its not so ideal.

The problem is that the pump is running full blast the whole time. That is the equivalent of having a 240 watt light bulb in your tank. The fuel doesn't take long to absorb the significant heat that is created by it. With a full tank, it is an issue, with a low fuel level, it is concerning.

If you are running EFI, you can modulate the power of the pump without damaging it using PWM, which turns on and off the power to the fuel pump hundreds of times a second to match pump output with the different amounts of fuel required during idle, cruise and wide open throttle.

Without the EFI computer to control the PWM like on a carbureted motor, it is difficult to match pump output to fuel requirements. The only recourse is to run full power to the pump and bypass the unneeded fuel back to the tank. It's inefficient, heats the fuel supply and the pump doesn't last as long.

There are a handful of companies trying to address this issue on carbureted motors right now, but it is technically difficult to do without the engine management computer. They have to attempt to use the relatively low fuel pressure at the regulator. It can be done at higher pressures, but the low pressure makes it difficult to properly manage.

Fuelabs does make a two speed electric pumps that can be triggered by throttle position or the secondary's on a carb. This is how I decided to go on my carb'd set-up using a full return regulator. The pump runs at low speed until triggered by the opening of the secondary's. Then it goes to full power/flow.

The attached file is the instruction sheet to the 2-speed pump I chose. It has some good info applicable to all electric pump based fuel systems.
 

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Go for the mechanical pump, but use a metered-orifice, 3 nipple fuel filter after the pump hooked to a return line to the tank Also insulate the fuel lines when they pass anywhere near heat, especially when near the motor. 3/8 feed and 1/4" return is more than adequate.

With your mild build, it's the quiet, reliable and inexpensive way to go.

If you do go for an electric pump, be sure to wire it in using relays, a low oil pressure cutoff switch and a bypass switch to allow for priming.

Modern cars no longer use return style systems. They use deadhead systems with a PWM (pulse width modulated) fuel pump controller that is managed by the ECM, which you don't have.

A lot of guys throw a high-volume, in-tank electric pump in their fuel tank and run a traditional bypass style regulator up front. This works well for short duration drag racing type use, but on a street car its not so ideal.

The problem is that the pump is running full blast the whole time. That is the equivalent of having a 240 watt light bulb in your tank. The fuel doesn't take long to absorb the significant heat that is created by it. With a full tank, it is an issue, with a low fuel level, it is concerning.

If you are running EFI, you can modulate the power of the pump without damaging it using PWM, which turns on and off the power to the fuel pump hundreds of times a second to match pump output with the different amounts of fuel required during idle, cruise and wide open throttle.

Without the EFI computer to control the PWM like on a carbureted motor, it is difficult to match pump output to fuel requirements. The only recourse is to run full power to the pump and bypass the unneeded fuel back to the tank. It's inefficient, heats the fuel supply and the pump doesn't last as long.

There are a handful of companies trying to address this issue on carbureted motors right now, but it is technically difficult to do without the engine management computer. They have to attempt to use the relatively low fuel pressure at the regulator. It can be done at higher pressures, but the low pressure makes it difficult to properly manage.

Fuelabs does make a two speed electric pumps that can be triggered by throttle position or the secondary's on a carb. This is how I decided to go on my carb'd set-up using a full return regulator. The pump runs at low speed until triggered by the opening of the secondary's. Then it goes to full power/flow.

The attached file is the instruction sheet to the 2-speed pump I chose. It has some good info applicable to all electric pump based fuel systems.

Thoughtful writeup. Thanks for sharing. I had forgotten about the low oil pressure cutoff (been out of the game a long time)!
 
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