Slacker's Guide to Fixing Up the 68 Notch
So yes I am living up to the slacker lifestyle. Things got busy after the holidays and family commitments kept me mostly away from working on the Barracuda. The family commitments have been good, including spending time with my kids and grandkids and also getting an elk hunt in Arizona's White Mountains. My son in law and I both got cow elks and I now have a full freezer.
So I have finally finished up the rebuild of my Kelsey Hayes calipers (well mostly) and in the pics below I have the details and my approach to the final rebuild assembly. I am keeping this fairly pic heavy and detailed with the intent of maybe making this a "how to KH caliper rebuild" thread at a later date.
Just thought it would be good to start out the post with some good old bathroom humor. My wife and I were shopping at Target the other day and saw this game on the shelf and I had to snap a picture. Have no idea on how the game is played! I should add this photo as a warning to all of my posts.
After the rust removal treatment I painted the parts.
For most of the parts I used VHT black satin caliper paint that I purchased at Autozone. For a few of the smaller parts I used Seymour cast iron gray color paint that I bought online at Zoro.
The VHT caliper paint is supposed to "cure" as you use your brakes to harden and become more chemical resistant. I really like the Cast Blast color of the Seymour paint and think I will use that for many of my suspension components.
In preparation to install seals and caliper pistons I coated the internals with a light layer of brake fluid.
Since I will completely replacing all my brake components including lines I plan to use the DOT 5 brake fluid. There is a little controversy on FABO and other forums on DOT 5 fluid, but it seems that the actual users have nothing but good to say about it. The benefits over DOT 3 as I understand them are that is does not eat paint, and it does not absorb water.
I poured a little DOT 5 into a cup and used a small paint brush to coat the calipers and seals prior to install. Notice the cool purple color of the Dot 5, another advantage I should have mentioned to support my fanboy representation of the fluid.
Installing the piston seal in the lower groove on the caliper. These went in easily with just my fingers and working them around.
Piston seal all in.
Then I installed the dust seals into the top groove. This took a little more manipulation to work it into the groove than the caliper seal, but really no problem.
Close up showing the caliper seal and dust seal installed.
Next step was installing pistons. I just coated the outside of the piston with a little brake fluid, and worked it into the dust seal and the caliper piston cylinder. As I worked the piston into the dust seal I could easily get the top lip of the dust seal into the groove in the caliper piston. Once the top lip was in, I just gave it a little emphasis to move the piston farther down past the rubber piston seal and it was a done deal. Repeated 7 more times for the other caliper cylinders.
Once I got all the seals and pistons installed, I bolted the caliper halves together and installed the crossover tubes, hydraulic hose, hose bracket, keeper, disc pads, and pad hold downs. All fairly straight forward bolt on affairs.
So several months ago I purchased some hose from Rock Auto. Even though it was listed on Rock Auto as the correct part for a 1968 Cuda I determined that I got the wrong hose. Lesson learned is to better inspect the part when it comes in, as Rock Auto only takes things back for 30 days so I was out of luck for returns.
Here is the end of the old correct hose. Notice the flat side.
Here is the new hose. Notice the lack of flat side on the fitting. Oops!
The reason for the flattened hose fitting is to fit into this bracket that holds the hose close to the caliper.
So I just took a hand file to the end of the fitting and flattened it, figured I had nothing to lose.
Problem solved, got it to fit with about 5 minutes of file work. But for the future the correct hose #'s for the flattened end are: Wagner BH66718, NAPA BH36654, Car Quest BHA66718 CHW, Dorman H66718, or Raybestos BH36654 (these #'s courtesy of FABO member hemi71x from another thread).
These were the Right Stuff stainless steel crossover and rubber hose connection lines I used in the rebuild. They all required a bit of push and pull to get lined up and threaded on the calipers. One of the hose connection lines must have been quite a bit off in the bends because it took me a good deal of manipulating and swearing to get in place. These stainless steel lines seemed to be resistant to much bending, kind of like me, so I am not sure if I will continue using stainless in the rest of the brake system.
I have two original OEM caliper to spindle bolts. They are a little different than standard bolts, supposedly in shoulder diameter. I need two more and just ordered them from FABO member hemidart67, who had a batch made just to sell to lacking FABO members like me. I could have used run of the mill regular 7/16 by 1 3/4 x 20 grade 8 bolts , but the 1 3/4 size are not stocked locally that I could find, and delivered would have cost me almost as much as the original design bolts that hemidart67 sells. His sale thread for these bolts is: [FOR SALE] - Reproduction Kelsey Hayes caliper bolts
So I am basically done with this caliper project for the time being. These calipers will go on the shelf while I now begin to rebuild the front end/suspension.
Let's see how I fared in my rebuild costs compared to buying a fully rebuilt unit from Rock Auto:
Used calipers $50 each
Pistons: CENTRIC 14641009 Steel & Aluminum Caliper Pistons $30.40 per caliper
Pads: CENTRIC 30100110 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims $11.40 per wheel
Seals: (Consists of dust seals and piston seals): CENTRIC 14363021 $7.29 per wheel
Hose: CENTRIC 15062015 $5.32 wheel
Bolt: Ace Hardware $1.83
Evaporust: Appx $10
Parts Shipping: $10
Total Parts Rebuild Costs per caliper: $126.24
Rebuilt Raybestos unit from Rock Auto with core charge & shipping and shipping core back: $138
Ha! Only saved about $24 to rebuild these two calipers myself over ordering an already rebuilt units from Rock Auto. I feel reasonably confident my rebuilt calipers will fully function plus I gained some for knowledge for future brake repairs. I also think my pistons and pads might be a grade above the rebuilt Raybestos units.
So yes I am living up to the slacker lifestyle. Things got busy after the holidays and family commitments kept me mostly away from working on the Barracuda. The family commitments have been good, including spending time with my kids and grandkids and also getting an elk hunt in Arizona's White Mountains. My son in law and I both got cow elks and I now have a full freezer.
So I have finally finished up the rebuild of my Kelsey Hayes calipers (well mostly) and in the pics below I have the details and my approach to the final rebuild assembly. I am keeping this fairly pic heavy and detailed with the intent of maybe making this a "how to KH caliper rebuild" thread at a later date.
Just thought it would be good to start out the post with some good old bathroom humor. My wife and I were shopping at Target the other day and saw this game on the shelf and I had to snap a picture. Have no idea on how the game is played! I should add this photo as a warning to all of my posts.
For most of the parts I used VHT black satin caliper paint that I purchased at Autozone. For a few of the smaller parts I used Seymour cast iron gray color paint that I bought online at Zoro.
The VHT caliper paint is supposed to "cure" as you use your brakes to harden and become more chemical resistant. I really like the Cast Blast color of the Seymour paint and think I will use that for many of my suspension components.
In preparation to install seals and caliper pistons I coated the internals with a light layer of brake fluid.
Since I will completely replacing all my brake components including lines I plan to use the DOT 5 brake fluid. There is a little controversy on FABO and other forums on DOT 5 fluid, but it seems that the actual users have nothing but good to say about it. The benefits over DOT 3 as I understand them are that is does not eat paint, and it does not absorb water.
I poured a little DOT 5 into a cup and used a small paint brush to coat the calipers and seals prior to install. Notice the cool purple color of the Dot 5, another advantage I should have mentioned to support my fanboy representation of the fluid.
Installing the piston seal in the lower groove on the caliper. These went in easily with just my fingers and working them around.
Piston seal all in.
Close up showing the caliper seal and dust seal installed.
Next step was installing pistons. I just coated the outside of the piston with a little brake fluid, and worked it into the dust seal and the caliper piston cylinder. As I worked the piston into the dust seal I could easily get the top lip of the dust seal into the groove in the caliper piston. Once the top lip was in, I just gave it a little emphasis to move the piston farther down past the rubber piston seal and it was a done deal. Repeated 7 more times for the other caliper cylinders.
Once I got all the seals and pistons installed, I bolted the caliper halves together and installed the crossover tubes, hydraulic hose, hose bracket, keeper, disc pads, and pad hold downs. All fairly straight forward bolt on affairs.
So several months ago I purchased some hose from Rock Auto. Even though it was listed on Rock Auto as the correct part for a 1968 Cuda I determined that I got the wrong hose. Lesson learned is to better inspect the part when it comes in, as Rock Auto only takes things back for 30 days so I was out of luck for returns.
Here is the end of the old correct hose. Notice the flat side.
Here is the new hose. Notice the lack of flat side on the fitting. Oops!
The reason for the flattened hose fitting is to fit into this bracket that holds the hose close to the caliper.
So I just took a hand file to the end of the fitting and flattened it, figured I had nothing to lose.
Problem solved, got it to fit with about 5 minutes of file work. But for the future the correct hose #'s for the flattened end are: Wagner BH66718, NAPA BH36654, Car Quest BHA66718 CHW, Dorman H66718, or Raybestos BH36654 (these #'s courtesy of FABO member hemi71x from another thread).
These were the Right Stuff stainless steel crossover and rubber hose connection lines I used in the rebuild. They all required a bit of push and pull to get lined up and threaded on the calipers. One of the hose connection lines must have been quite a bit off in the bends because it took me a good deal of manipulating and swearing to get in place. These stainless steel lines seemed to be resistant to much bending, kind of like me, so I am not sure if I will continue using stainless in the rest of the brake system.
I have two original OEM caliper to spindle bolts. They are a little different than standard bolts, supposedly in shoulder diameter. I need two more and just ordered them from FABO member hemidart67, who had a batch made just to sell to lacking FABO members like me. I could have used run of the mill regular 7/16 by 1 3/4 x 20 grade 8 bolts , but the 1 3/4 size are not stocked locally that I could find, and delivered would have cost me almost as much as the original design bolts that hemidart67 sells. His sale thread for these bolts is: [FOR SALE] - Reproduction Kelsey Hayes caliper bolts
So I am basically done with this caliper project for the time being. These calipers will go on the shelf while I now begin to rebuild the front end/suspension.
Let's see how I fared in my rebuild costs compared to buying a fully rebuilt unit from Rock Auto:
Used calipers $50 each
Pistons: CENTRIC 14641009 Steel & Aluminum Caliper Pistons $30.40 per caliper
Pads: CENTRIC 30100110 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims $11.40 per wheel
Seals: (Consists of dust seals and piston seals): CENTRIC 14363021 $7.29 per wheel
Hose: CENTRIC 15062015 $5.32 wheel
Bolt: Ace Hardware $1.83
Evaporust: Appx $10
Parts Shipping: $10
Total Parts Rebuild Costs per caliper: $126.24
Rebuilt Raybestos unit from Rock Auto with core charge & shipping and shipping core back: $138
Ha! Only saved about $24 to rebuild these two calipers myself over ordering an already rebuilt units from Rock Auto. I feel reasonably confident my rebuilt calipers will fully function plus I gained some for knowledge for future brake repairs. I also think my pistons and pads might be a grade above the rebuilt Raybestos units.
