Slacker's Guide to Fixing Up the 68 Notch

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Well done Scott! Glad ya got some quality family time. Shoulda picked the poop game up for the grandkids lol.
Brakes look great and way better quality than the ones from Rock Auto.
Nice job. Got.me.thinking about redoing mine now
 
You are putting your slacker membership in jeopardy!! Should have taken you at least another 6 months. Btw very nice work and the photo documentary is extraordinary, detailed and clear. I like how you took parts that were marginal or slightly worn and modified them to better than new. Whats next?
 
Well done Scott! Glad ya got some quality family time. Shoulda picked the poop game up for the grandkids lol.
Brakes look great and way better quality than the ones from Rock Auto.
Nice job. Got.me.thinking about redoing mine now

Thanks Steve, OK I see by your post you have subconsciously given me permission to keep you accountable for your brakes. Would you prefer constant threats or occasional demeaning sarcastic comments. Just let me know....
 
You are putting your slacker membership in jeopardy!! Should have taken you at least another 6 months. Btw very nice work and the photo documentary is extraordinary, detailed and clear. I like how you took parts that were marginal or slightly worn and modified them to better than new. Whats next?

They looked at my credentials and gave me a lifetime membership so no worry there! Thanks for the kind words on the documentation.

My next project if I chose to accept it is to start rebuilding the front suspension. Think I will do one side at a time and see how it goes. I am doing some reading up on FABO and the factory service manual on the how-to. I am always looking for advice so please fire away with tips.

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I think I will work on this passenger side first. I want to replace all the bushings, ball joints, tie rods, seals, etc. This is a 10 inch drum spindle and I have a disc brake spindle that will be swapped.


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This was my Christmas present from my wife. How did she know I wanted it? She must be psychic or possibly I may have let it slipped I wanted it:D. Hopefully these tools are helpful and decent in quality. They are made in USA. They almost price matched the chinese ones that are available through Mancini.
 
Love the notch back. I have had mine since 1987. One step at a time and the project doesn't feel like a job...... LOL Here is my car.

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Lol I thrive on sarcasm (thanks to Lori) so whatever the motivator...tubetops, sarcasm you name it lol.
And to 2nd what Wayne/69conv said, excellent documentation!
Steve I might have one used let me go through the junk pile of carbs, They are choke pulloffs here.
Ray

Thanks Steve, OK I see by your post you have subconsciously given me permission to keep you accountable for your brakes. Would you prefer constant threats or occasional demeaning sarcastic comments. Just let me know....
 
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I started work on removing the right side front suspension, specifically the torsion bar today. I have not done suspension work myself other than replacing shocks, so I am mostly following the factory service manual to guide me. I purchased a reproduction FSM several years ago. I always like how the Chrysler manuals refer to a special tool for the job (such as "Tool C-3728" in the pic) - I always wondered if the dealer mechanics always had these tools available to them.




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Just a reference picture showing where the torsion bar anchors in the front to the lower control arm.




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The first step was to remove the tension off the torsion bar. Sprayed a little WD-40 on the adjustment bolt then loosened it all the way with a 3/4 inch socket. The bolt is sandwiched within the lower control arm.



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Got the bolt completely backed out and tension completely off the TB.



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Another reference picture showing where the torsion bar anchors in the rear (to the frame). It was really built up with grease, dirt, and possibly a little undercoating. I needed to clean that up a little and remove a lock ring to allow the TB to be removed towards the rear.


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Well I scraped some of the crud out with a screwdriver better exposing the lock ring. The ring came out easily with a pair of needle nose pliers.



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This little wimpy clip is what keeps your torsion bar in! Well it has served very honorably for 48 years! The picture does make it look much more stout that actual - it is really a wimpy little pin. I am sure the TB tension and loaded suspension helps keep the TB it in place too.



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This is the torsion bar removal tool out of my American Muscle kit. Lets see if it works.



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Got the tool installed on the torsion bar. A little crowded by the header, but I had enough room to get some whacks on it. The TB comes needs to come out towards the back of the car, through the rear anchor plate, so I hammered the tool towards the rear.



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After some persuasion with a 1.5 lb deadblow hammer on the removal tool the TB freed itself from the front anchor on the lower control arm.


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Once the TB was free of the front anchor on the LCA, I removed the rubber boot by sliding it from the rear of the TB to the front.




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What a 48 year old TB grease boot looks like.



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This pic shows where I had the TB almost completely slid out except for going through the rear anchor. I was able to pull it by hand to this point, then apparently my manly arms showed signs of being like some old guy. Oops, keep forgetting I am an old guy. Anyway I don't have a picture, but I just relocated the bitchin removal tool to this back side and gave it a few whacks to finish removing the TB. By the way that rotted pipe looking thing under the torsion bar is not my driveshaft, it is an header muffler, probably a Thrush if I recall correctly.


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Rear of TB. From research on FABO this 892 part number corresponds to a .870 diameter TB's that were used on 340 cars and 318's with AC. Haven't decided whether I will keep these or go with something heavier. Looking for some advice on this matter.


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Front of TB. I referenced marked both ends in grease pencil.




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So I need to scrape some crud off and put it away for potential future reinstall. Now I need to work on the removing the rest of the front suspension components on this right side.

I see I caught that blue LED light in the top of this pic. Those are those freebie lights you get at Harbor Freight when you buy something. I think I have 3 of those now and actually think they are pretty handy and durable.
 
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Thanks for the kind words guys. A piece of build advice I have often seen on FABO is try to do something each day on the car, no matter how insignificant. I am pretty sure I will never meet that rule because I have very good excuses (ahem, cough, cough, slacker...) but you guys can hold me to the fire!
I`m 70 and just fine tuning the finishing touches on a 68 fastback form S car. nothing is original but the seats, and they
They looked at my credentials and gave me a lifetime membership so no worry there! Thanks for the kind words on the documentation.

My next project if I chose to accept it is to start rebuilding the front suspension. Think I will do one side at a time and see how it goes. I am doing some reading up on FABO and the factory service manual on the how-to. I am always looking for advice so please fire away with tips.

View attachment 1715022453
I think I will work on this passenger side first. I want to replace all the bushings, ball joints, tie rods, seals, etc. This is a 10 inch drum spindle and I have a disc brake spindle that will be swapped.


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This was my Christmas present from my wife. How did she know I wanted it? She must be psychic or possibly I may have let it slipped I wanted it:D. Hopefully these tools are helpful and decent in quality. They are made in USA. They almost price matched the chinese ones that are available through Mancini.
keep the wife !
 
I`m 70 and just fine tuning the finishing touches on a 68 fastback form S car. nothing is original but the seats, and they

keep the wife !

Hey Bob, do you have a build thread or another thread that has pics of your car? I would like to see it.
 
Nice progress and great documentation Scott. I'll be referring to your thread when I start to put mine together.

Ahem.... Steve you and I need to discuss this word called "when" that you have been incorporating into your conversations lately. As a slacker it is a comfort word but I do however prefer to use the word "soon." It provides the appearance of imminent work without strict time commitment.
 
Great photos and descriptions--you'll be glad you're documenting all this work, and I'm sure it will be helpful for many others too.

"The 'Cude abides."
 
It's nice having those special tools. I can't tell you how many torsion bars I took out with vice grips. I finally got the tool makes a world of difference.
 
It's nice having those special tools. I can't tell you how many torsion bars I took out with vice grips. I finally got the tool makes a world of difference.

It is entirely possible that I have a tool addiction and this Barracuda project is actually just an excuse to fulfill a need to acquire more tools! I could join a 12 step program to help me with this issue, but then I would need to go purchase a nice metal field notebook, some new mechanical .9 mm pencils, and a good Hydro Flask water bottle to take to the class....
 
Nice progress and great documentation Scott. I'll be referring to your thread when I start to put mine together.

I didn't know you would work for tubetops, Steve!

Ahem.... Steve you and I need to discuss this word called "when" that you have been incorporating into your conversations lately. As a slacker it is a comfort word but I do however prefer to use the word "soon." It provides the appearance of imminent work without strict time commitment.

I'm thinkin y'all need a ratingsystem like novice slacker, moderate slacker, Olympic caliber and I don't really feel like finishing typing this po......
 
So this afternoon I found a couple free hours to work more on the right side front end disassembly. This is what happened:

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I just looked at things and went with what I though to be a good order of removal. I started with this tie rod that connects to the lower ball joint and steering knuckle.


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I removed the cotter pin and removed it with a breaker bar and 3/4 inch socket. It broke free relatively easy.


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I have seen some videos of folks just smacking the joints with a hammer to release them. I tried this a few times but it did not do the trick for me and so I decided to try something else.


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I just happened to be near Harbor Freight the other day and picked up this air hammer and tie rod pickle fork. I could quit buying tools anytime just so you know. The air hammer was $9.99 and the fork was also $9.99. Out the door with my 20% off coupon was $19.55.


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This was my first time using an air hammer. I adjusted my air compressor to 90 psi, and let it rip.



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Just a few rat-a-tats and off it came. I like tools...


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Next I decided I would remove the lower and upper ball joints. I removed the cotter pins and nuts on both the joints. This pic is on the lower BJ. Used a 7/8" socket for the lower BJ, and a 11/16" for the upper. Both nuts broke free pretty easily with the breaker bar.

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This is the "upper ball joint stud removal tool" out of the American Muscle tool kit.


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Here is the top side of the tool that is designed to fit into the stud of the upper BJ.


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Pic shows the bottom of the tool that is supposed to slip over the lower BJ stud.

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The tool places pressure on the upper BJ stud by turning the bolt, and then by giving the steering knuckle a hammer whack it is supposed to release the joint. Well I could not get the bottom of the tool over the the lower stud as it seemed that there was not enough space due to the proximity of the steering knuckle/spindle. I tried several positions, turning the knuckle, etc. but could not make them fit. But I made it work as you see it in the picture. I tightened it, whacked the knuckle with the hammer a few, and off it came. IDIOT ALERT DOH!: After I got it off I realized if I had just jacked up the lower control arm the tool could have been placed as instructed. :BangHead:


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Its off :)




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My next step was to remove the entire upper BJ out of the upper control arm. It is threaded in the control arm.



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To do this you need this special 1.809 inch socket. This socket came in my kit and uses 1/2" ratchet size. It fit both my breaker bar and ratchet extremely tight so I took a few file strokes on the 1/2" square to fix that issue.



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Before I put the socket on the BJ, I removed the zerk fitting, and scraped a little of the crud off the BJ.


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One good tidbit of info I have gleaned from FABO is it is much easier to unscrew the BJ from the upper control arm while it is still in the car. I was able to put this breaker bar along with a short cheater pipe on the breaker bar to break it loose.

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Pic showing where it came out of the upper control arm and the light threading.

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Pic of the upper BJ I just removed and the boot.


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Next I removed two bolts and nuts that held the spindle on to the lower ball joint.


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It came off without issue. This is a 10" drum spindle that I will replace with the Kelsey Hayes disc spindle.

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My last operation today was to remove the lower ball joint. I thought my American Muscle kit had a lower BJ removal tool, but today I discovered they do not provide that in their kit. Not sure what their reasoning was behind that:realcrazy:. So I decided I would use my pickle fork but unfortunately it is a tie rod pickle fork and did not have wide enough forks to completely pass through the joint. But it did go far enough to put some pressure on the joint and I was able to whack the control arm with a hammer and it let go fairly easily. Harbor Freight has a little bigger pickle joint for BJ's, so I may pick that one up when I do the other side.


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Final pic of the post showing the lower BJ out. Next job when some time comes available will be to remove the lower control arm and strut. Wish somebody would come clean up this mess on the floor now....
 
I'm thinkin y'all need a ratingsystem like novice slacker, moderate slacker, Olympic caliber and I don't really feel like finishing typing this po......

69conv I can see some potential in you but since you actually thought of a rating system shows that you are not a true slacker aficionado. We are going to have to see a lot less effort from you if you wish to go not far...
 
Hey Bob, do you have a build thread or another thread that has pics of your car? I would like to see it.
no, I didn`t even think about it. probly wouldn't know how to post it anyway !---------- keep it up !
 
Keeping up with the slackers motto, tubetops are a perfect fit (naturally) lol. Beauty of them is a tug up or down can change your world.
Great work Scott!
With my upper bj's the threads were a little sloppy so I tack welded them in in 3 places.
Those threads quite often are TERRIBLE.
I didn't know you would work for tubetops, Steve!



I'm thinkin y'all need a ratingsystem like novice slacker, moderate slacker, Olympic caliber and I don't really feel like finishing typing this po......
 
no, I didn`t even think about it. probly wouldn't know how to post it anyway !---------- keep it up !

Well in that case I see you live in OK, only a short 1000 miles or so from Phoenix. When you finish the car a road trip is in order....
 
Keeping up with the slackers motto, tubetops are a perfect fit (naturally) lol. Beauty of them is a tug up or down can change your world.
Great work Scott!
With my upper bj's the threads were a little sloppy so I tack welded them in in 3 places.
Those threads quite often are TERRIBLE.

LOL on the perfect woman's wardrobe. I wonder if it was designed by some guy who was putting on his tube socks in the morning with a revelation of "hey what if somebody make these things a little bigger and slide them on a woman?"

I hope the new BJs thread in OK in the LCA as I don't know how to weld. This guy where I get some welding done occasionally does some one on one welding classes for a fee and I am thinking about taking him up on it. I am thinking about putting those stiffener plates on the LCA's and maybe some frame connectors where welding skills would be handy.
 
With the quality of your pictures and descriptions, your slacker credibility is diminishing rapidly. I wish I had this thread available when I did my suspension rebuild.
 
I was going to lay out the bucks for one of them expensive manuals for my car but have decided to just wait until you're done posting the work on your car instead. Great work!!
 
I would reply but I'm in mid-slack. I'm striving to live down to the condition of your muffler.
 
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