18 year old with Mopar project NEED ADVICE!!!

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Mopar118

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Joined
Feb 26, 2017
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Location
Monroe, MI
Hello everybody. This is my first post on this site so i hope it goes well. Just some unnecessary information about myself. I am a 18 year old senior at Jefferson High school in Monroe, Michigan. My auto shop teacher, Rob Eppler, is a very well know gear head and racer around southeast Michigan. He has been guiding me in the world of automobiles and has been doing a mighty fine job. Last year he gave me the opportunity to drive and race our 1971 Dodge Demon, powered by a naturally aspirated 360 and backed by a 904 transmission. My best ET was 118 mph @ 11.58 in the qt and that's only starting out in second gear! Anyways getting back on track, sense I was a little kid my father has always had Mopar's. Growing up around it I said "Hey! I want one." Being 18 now, I have owned 3 Rams but never a old Mopar muscle car. Now I am purchasing a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport in the spring and its already a done deal. It is just a bare body but already set up for drag racing, that's exactly what i want too. I'm looking to build just a strip car, not a pro street. The body is solid and no dents or dings. My vision for the car is to run in the mid to low 10's. I haven't made up my decision about the power plant yet, that's where I was hoping I could get some help. I know I don't want any power adders, just all motor. From what I've researched, most of the rest of the car's components depends on that decision from tubular K-member, rear axle, drive train, etc. I wouldn't mind a 360 but I don't think it has enough power to get me into the ET's I want. Anyways let me know if I'm missing any key information. I will get some pictures up of the car soon. Thank you guys very much!
 
WELCOME -- From Pa. -- You've come to the right place for help. -- Good luck with the build.
 
Hello everybody. This is my first post on this site so i hope it goes well. Just some unnecessary information about myself. I am a 18 year old senior at Jefferson High school in Monroe, Michigan. My auto shop teacher, Rob Eppler, is a very well know gear head and racer around southeast Michigan. He has been guiding me in the world of automobiles and has been doing a mighty fine job. Last year he gave me the opportunity to drive and race our 1971 Dodge Demon, powered by a naturally aspirated 360 and backed by a 904 transmission. My best ET was 118 mph @ 11.58 in the qt and that's only starting out in second gear! Anyways getting back on track, sense I was a little kid my father has always had Mopar's. Growing up around it I said "Hey! I want one." Being 18 now, I have owned 3 Rams but never a old Mopar muscle car. Now I am purchasing a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport in the spring and its already a done deal. It is just a bare body but already set up for drag racing, that's exactly what i want too. I'm looking to build just a strip car, not a pro street. The body is solid and no dents or dings. My vision for the car is to run in the mid to low 10's. I haven't made up my decision about the power plant yet, that's where I was hoping I could get some help. I know I don't want any power adders, just all motor. From what I've researched, most of the rest of the car's components depends on that decision from tubular K-member, rear axle, drive train, etc. I wouldn't mind a 360 but I don't think it has enough power to get me into the ET's I want. Anyways let me know if I'm missing any key information. I will get some pictures up of the car soon. Thank you guys very much!
Welcome Mopar118, great to see some of the young guy's n gal's getting into ol' Mopars! I believe a stroked 340 with the right heads, cam, rear gear, and intake would do it. I also like bolting it up to a well built 904 trans. Many say "NO replacement for displacement" while I agree, a high horsepower lightweight small block and trans sure comes close!
 
Hello everybody. This is my first post on this site so i hope it goes well. Just some unnecessary information about myself. I am a 18 year old senior at Jefferson High school in Monroe, Michigan. My auto shop teacher, Rob Eppler, is a very well know gear head and racer around southeast Michigan. He has been guiding me in the world of automobiles and has been doing a mighty fine job. Last year he gave me the opportunity to drive and race our 1971 Dodge Demon, powered by a naturally aspirated 360 and backed by a 904 transmission. My best ET was 118 mph @ 11.58 in the qt and that's only starting out in second gear! Anyways getting back on track, sense I was a little kid my father has always had Mopar's. Growing up around it I said "Hey! I want one." Being 18 now, I have owned 3 Rams but never a old Mopar muscle car. Now I am purchasing a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport in the spring and its already a done deal. It is just a bare body but already set up for drag racing, that's exactly what i want too. I'm looking to build just a strip car, not a pro street. The body is solid and no dents or dings. My vision for the car is to run in the mid to low 10's. I haven't made up my decision about the power plant yet, that's where I was hoping I could get some help. I know I don't want any power adders, just all motor. From what I've researched, most of the rest of the car's components depends on that decision from tubular K-member, rear axle, drive train, etc. I wouldn't mind a 360 but I don't think it has enough power to get me into the ET's I want. Anyways let me know if I'm missing any key information. I will get some pictures up of the car soon. Thank you guys very much!

With enough money anything is possible.
Just the safety equipment alone to run 10's is going to cost a lot.


I'd shoot for 11.50's.
Stock pile as many 318's as you can find.
Learn to tune nitrous.
 
You really need to come up with a realistic Budget? What are you able to spend on it. Then go from there. I personally would recommend a low deck stroker like a 451 or 470. Easy to get there with this foundation. Oh yeah, Welcome!
 
Hello everybody. This is my first post on this site so i hope it goes well. Just some unnecessary information about myself. I am a 18 year old senior at Jefferson High school in Monroe, Michigan. My auto shop teacher, Rob Eppler, is a very well know gear head and racer around southeast Michigan. He has been guiding me in the world of automobiles and has been doing a mighty fine job. Last year he gave me the opportunity to drive and race our 1971 Dodge Demon, powered by a naturally aspirated 360 and backed by a 904 transmission. My best ET was 118 mph @ 11.58 in the qt and that's only starting out in second gear! Anyways getting back on track, sense I was a little kid my father has always had Mopar's. Growing up around it I said "Hey! I want one." Being 18 now, I have owned 3 Rams but never a old Mopar muscle car. Now I am purchasing a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport in the spring and its already a done deal. It is just a bare body but already set up for drag racing, that's exactly what i want too. I'm looking to build just a strip car, not a pro street. The body is solid and no dents or dings. My vision for the car is to run in the mid to low 10's. I haven't made up my decision about the power plant yet, that's where I was hoping I could get some help. I know I don't want any power adders, just all motor. From what I've researched, most of the rest of the car's components depends on that decision from tubular K-member, rear axle, drive train, etc. I wouldn't mind a 360 but I don't think it has enough power to get me into the ET's I want. Anyways let me know if I'm missing any key information. I will get some pictures up of the car soon. Thank you guys very much!
I'd BIG BLOCK IT!You won't regret it..
 
Stroke a big block to 500 + cubes. Stoker kits are cheap. If you don't already have a small block & trans this is the way to go
 
A 360 can make enough power to run the time. That is one part of the math equation. Another part is s car weight. Then traction.

Now, can you build the car light enough? Lighter the car, less power the engine has this make.
Also, the build MUST be mighty stout! Your working a smaller engine harder.

This is where bigger the better comes in. Be it a stroker small block, or big block, stroked or not, the bigger it is the easier it is to make power.

Big blocks carry a slight weight disadvantage but over come it in power. However, where the weight is placed also makes a difference.
Big blocks one have 1 trans, the 727. But adapter kits are out there for GM transmissions.
At the power level sought, there are two fears to consider. A Ford 9 or DANA 60.

Have fun! And welcome aboard !!!!
 
Welcome from the other side of the state, Holton, MI. I'd build a 408 or 416.
 
Welcome from out Pinckney way!! Whatever you decide, if you message me I can probably help find the block you'd like to use!! I currently know of, or possess all displacement motors or blocks suitable for building your engine, and we're only about an hour apart!! We were just down to Monroe HS for the MYWA wrestling tournament!!
 
Three factors involved with building a race car: budget, budget, and class you want to run. The last one isn't as important as the first two. Some helpful hints: 11.50 or slower is much less expensive than 11.49 or faster. Bracket cars do best with the hood closed all day. Lighter is faster in any class, with any engine. Top quality machining with stock parts will get you further than cheap "fast parts" and the cheapest machining you can find. So share what the budget is, being realistic with yourself, and tell us what class you are considering.
 
I'm a speed junky, there's no doubt about that. With our school car running 11.50's, that's not enough to satisfy myself. I'm not too familiar with the different classes I just know that's the times I want to run (mid to low 10's). I've already priced out everything to make this car a race ready roller and came up with $12-15k. Add I'm guessing $10k for motor and trans.
 
Three factors involved with building a race car: budget, budget, and class you want to run. The last one isn't as important as the first two. Some helpful hints: 11.50 or slower is much less expensive than 11.49 or faster. Bracket cars do best with the hood closed all day. Lighter is faster in any class, with any engine. Top quality machining with stock parts will get you further than cheap "fast parts" and the cheapest machining you can find. So share what the budget is, being realistic with yourself, and tell us what class you are considering.
I want it a bracket car
 
If you plan on commiting to drag racing and racing your dart sport for a long time, then please listen. Look down the road: if you see yourself running low 10"s thast is very obtainable in a leaf spring car on a 9 or 10" tire. If you know as the funds get better tour gonna be hungry for more speed, the backhalfing it now with a four link will save you time and money. Also you will learn to tune the same suspension. Whatever you decide i would take the majority of the $ you budget and focus on the chassis and safety. Get a NHRA rule book and pay attention to chassis requirements. If there is ever any doubt during construction "well.. i might not ever go that fast" error toward the faster side. Build your chassis and suspension as good as you can afford. Then put a nice cam in a low buck bottom end and go get some seat-time. Because youe gonna make mistakes, we all did! You can plot your Ultimate power plant for the following winter. 2cents
 
I like your thinking! I looked at S&W's back half kit and thought that would be a good road to go down for the rear suspension. A lot of man hours to install but it would be worth it.
 
(on my soap box) Whats your plan for further education and a career? Toys and fun aside you need capital and space (a place to work on and store it) to do it. Trust me, been there, done that. Focus on an education and career while your young and then have fun. Spend 4 years, get a Bachelors in something employable (avoid anything with arts, literature, or liberal in the title) and enjoy being 22/23 years old with a decent paying job, health insurance, retirement plan and the cash to build your car. (off my soap box)
 
Totally agree with the above post, but with one additional thought. It doesn't have to be a 4 year degree. You could work for a few years in your chosen field, saving every spare nickel while you gain experience. Then take that money and experience, plus what you saved on tuition, and start a business doing what you love. It's not for everyone, but if you're ambitious and talented it could pay off in the long run.
 
What is your budget? could go on as others, and say you should do this and that. but your budget is #1!!!
If it's going to take 3 years to afford a half back car........you will loose interest and never get it done. You may need to build a stockist motor some used gears and have some fun with a 14 sec car.
If you have the money, then as has been said build a chassis that will more than be strong enough for a 9 sec car.
Time and money multiplies every time you want to go another sec quicker. to make a 17 sec car run in the 14 is a simple recipe and vary inexpensive. Now to run 10.50s and want to run 10.40s.......well it will probably cost you 10 times the money and labor it took to go from 17s to 14s sec. The 14 sec car can be a daily drive that you have fun with all the time.
The 10 sec car has to have a truck and trailer, and you may only race it 4 or 5 times a year........
You need to think about all of this so that your budget get you on the track and have some fun!!!
 
(on my soap box) Whats your plan for further education and a career? Toys and fun aside you need capital and space (a place to work on and store it) to do it. Trust me, been there, done that. Focus on an education and career while your young and then have fun. Spend 4 years, get a Bachelors in something employable (avoid anything with arts, literature, or liberal in the title) and enjoy being 22/23 years old with a decent paying job, health insurance, retirement plan and the cash to build your car. (off my soap box)
After I graduate high school I'm enrolled to start college at UNOH (University of Northwestern Ohio) for High Performace Motorsports. After that I'm pretty much open to anything as long as my carrer involves high performace vehicles. I have the tools and space to make this car right so now its just earning the money and building the car!
 
That's awesome pal, i'm proud to know ya! and by the way Welcome
 
My -2 ) is 2 build the car from the back forward that start with the Dana 60 then a nice Driveline and Driveline Loop and then a nice transmission and then a nice bottom end on your motor and then build the top end of the motor. Or be a teenager like I did when I was your age and start at the top of the motor and find the weakest links.
WELLCOME !
 
With talking to my auto shop teacher and some hard thinking, I'm going to go with a 360. Easy, simple, fun to run. Just like our school car's, jump in it and go. Already able to run a 11.58 and only starting in second, im sure ill be able to pull low 11s if I started in first. If I do the same thing just add some more high performace parts. Still going to be a lot of work with chassis and body. Would it be okay to run a 8 3/4 with say a 450-500hp motor? Obviosly not stock axles but just a brace in the back for support.
 
With talking to my auto shop teacher and some hard thinking, I'm going to go with a 360. Easy, simple, fun to run. Just like our school car's, jump in it and go. Already able to run a 11.58 and only starting in second, im sure ill be able to pull low 11s if I started in first. If I do the same thing just add some more high performace parts. Still going to be a lot of work with chassis and body. Would it be okay to run a 8 3/4 with say a 450-500hp motor? Obviosly not stock axles but just a brace in the back for support.
Yes, with an auto trans.
 
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