Camshaft help.....340 Dart Swinger

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That cam you linked is an awesome street cam ,Great torque, enough power. can run the factory stall and 3.23s even. It runs really well with a 10.5 compression an 3.55s but doesn't need either, really. It will also be a fuel sipper once the tune is in.At just 46* of overlap, headers are optional. It will run a bit better with them. It's kindof like a stock 340 cam on a tighter LSA. It is a very good choice. If you want more power, put it in the heads. But that cam will fry the tires easy enough.You will like it, I had the next size up, and it was awesome!
I agree that the 284 is not for everybody,and especially not for a first timer.
Believe it or not, we are here to help.
Thank you sir. All I asked was about the cam and right away people start jumping in on other bs. I don't car whether they like the 284/484 or not I have it and HATE it. So I really appreciate your post. You and a few others were nice with your responses, others like the runmblefish360 who posted last. His comment has nothing to do with my question that was asked. If he doesn't like it than he doesn't need to reply.
 
For me....for street/strip performance, if it doesn't lift the valve an honest .500 or better...its the wrong camshaft.
Street performance near stock manners...I wouldn't be using a 284 duration anything unless it comes with .500 or better lift and its a 4 spd application Or 3.91 +gears.

On average its hard to give bad advice based on those guidelines.
 
You had a thread back in November. Part of the likely problem(s) is in this post of yours.

Alright sorry I was away today as for what we did for install, we lined the Dots up, the car ran fine before the cam, all you had to do was hit the gas one time for the electric choke and it fired right up and idled great, we put this cam in and it fired right up on the initial start, we got everything broke in then went to get the idle set and now have this issue. We have a carb on another 340 with the 284/484 cam that we know starts and idles great so I guess we are going to make sure the timing is set like you guys all said in other comments and put that good carb on it and see what happens...

Since the cam is an unknown regarding ICL, where is the idle timing set in P/N and in gear? If the timing was set using total method, you are likely WAY off from where it should be. It may need to be locked out to get anything at idle up to where the cam comes on.
 
others like the runmblefish360 who posted last. His comment has nothing to do with my question that was asked. If he doesn't like it than he doesn't need to reply.


What I don't like is little chits like yourself that ask a question, delete posts, and then cry like a little girl pointing fingers with big crocodile tears in there eyes.

I tuned into the thread mate noticing your screen name from the last post about your cam and thought to myself that I *might* be able to help! Who knows?
Then I see deleted posts!

R U Fing kidding me?!?!

That is freaking laughable just to start with! Truly a baby like response.

NOW! That your naming names, let the joust begin or STFU about the matter and mets get going on what the problem is..... which was likely deleted to begin with.

So how can I possibly help if the information is deleted?

You sir are on your way to being just another side note joke.
 
Now let's start from, ugh! Scratch, again.
Your Purple 284/.484 cam you hate?
And your looking for a replacement cam that does what better?
Would you mind so much as to list the equipment the car has?
Engine size
Compression
Carb size
Transmission being use AND IF AN AUTO
Stall speed of the converter
Rear end gears
Tire size
Intended useage

Or is this to much for you?

Good info in, good suggestions & info out.
Help us help you instead of crying and pointing fingers.
Get over it!
 
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Now let's start from, ugh! Scratch, again.
Your Purple 284/.484 cam you hate?
And your looking for a replacement cam that does what better?
Would you mind so much as to list the equipment the car has?
Engine size
Compression
Carb size
Transmission being use AND IF AN AUTO
Stall speed of the converter
Rear end gears
Tire size
Intended useage

Or is this to much for you?

Good info in, good suggestions & info out.
Help us


its a bored over 340, so its technically 345ci, stock "X" heads engine was originally in a 68 GTS Dart. Same as the 727 behind it. It currently has 3.23's gears in the back, transmission and converter are factory as far as I know.....I haven't had this car a year yet. It has Doug's long tube headers, stock 4 barrel intake. Powersteering, air conditioning, and manual brakes. Street driving, strip racing once and a while would like to run 100mph in the 1/4 mile.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Now let's start from, ugh! Scratch, again.
Your Purple 284/.484 cam you hate?
And your looking for a replacement cam that does what better?
Would you mind so much as to list the equipment the car has?
Engine size
Compression
Carb size
Transmission being use AND IF AN AUTO
Stall speed of the converter
Rear end gears
Tire size
Intended useage

Or is this to much for you?

Good info in, good suggestions & info out.
Help us
you quoted me, did you reply to me?
 
Oh good God man! You answered me "Within the quote tags!" RUFKM! Seriously now! Good Lordy!

Would you be willing to change gear ratios and a torque converter?
What size tire are on the back wheels?

The gear ratio and very possibly the converter are limiting the cars performance. I'm not sure a cam alone would do you good for a 100 mph 1/4 mile.
 
The FIRST thing the OP needs to do is STOP and degree the cam. It needs to be in at 100-102 and start with that.

Dot to dot means it can be anywhere from 98 to 118.

You start at the beginning. That is degreeing the cam. He's willing to do the work to install a new cam, so why not fix this one?
 
Personally I think it is a bit much cam for a stock converter and 3.23 gears. Stock tire or not.
 
Personally I think it is a bit much cam for a stock converter and 3.23 gears. Stock tire or not.

It probably is. But, if the issue is in the crank, or the timing set and he just installs a new cam without degreeing it, he may end up in the same boat. He can get 97% of what he wants if he moves the ICL ahead some.
 
I hope you are. you were given advice from some of the most knowledgeable men on Fabo. Future advice may not come your way if you don't lighten up and provide answers when asked. Opinions vary, but real tech and fixes don't.
 
I have been following this thread because I have similar issues with my engine, so seems that the OP has abandoned this thread I am going to hijack it because there are people here who know what they are talking about. So here I go
68 340 .030 over
71 j heads 2.02-1.60
Stock 10.5 pistons
268 xe cam
18* initial timing 34* total
727 with 2200 stall
355 gears with p70 215 tires
The cam was installed dot to dot
Now I know that I have to degree the cam are there any tips any of you can give me?
I have a dial indicator and a degree wheel.
 
I have been following this thread because I have similar issues with my engine, so seems that the OP has abandoned this thread I am going to hijack it because there are people here who know what they are talking about. So here I go
68 340 .030 over
71 j heads 2.02-1.60
Stock 10.5 pistons
268 xe cam
18* initial timing 34* total
727 with 2200 stall
355 gears with p70 215 tires
The cam was installed dot to dot
Now I know that I have to degree the cam are there any tips any of you can give me?
I have a dial indicator and a degree wheel.



Check and verify the ICL first. If it is soft on the bottom, advance it 4 degrees. If you want to move the power curve up, retard it 4 degrees.
 
Summit, Jegs, Crane, Comp Cams, etc.
All have degree kits in a box that come with instructions.
On the MoPar Performance degree wheel, it is printed right on the wheel. Photo copy it and put it in a sleeve.
Tape it to the garage wall.

Just carefully read the instructions. Get yourself relaxed and have a seat. Take your time.

It is a PIA to do when you don't do it often but it gets easy after the first or second time.

There really is only one way the do it and that is knuckle down and get it done. Take your time, double triple check.

OH! Remove the spark plugs!
 
An XE268 has a suggested installed centerline of 106. Make sure it's at least there.

Don't see intake, carb or exhaust, that engine with the cam installed per comp, should make plenty of power.
 
Stock 71 cast iron TQ intake with 625cfm street demon, and stock 71 340 manifolds going to 2 1/4 pipes with turbo mufflers.
All in a 67 Dart gt.
Thanks for the replys and tips you guys are a great help. Thank you!
Mike
 
So what is the difference between a 106 ICL
as compared to the 110 ICL or a 102 ICL that YR had suggested to the OP?
Cam specs are still a bit confusing to me.
 
The cam is cut with a specific Lobe Separation Angle (LSA). In the case of a XE268h, it's 110 degrees. You can't change that number once the cam is cut, it's fixed.

The intake centerline (ICL) is where the cam is installed in relation to the crankshaft. Cams cam be installed straight up at 110, advanced (xe268) at 106 or some number lower than 110 LSA or retarded at some number higher than 110.

Advancing gets the intake valve closed sooner and creates more cylinder pressure which can be helpful to trick an engine when using a cam that is likely a bit too large.
 
So the lower number makes more power in the lower rpm band and the higher number would make the power in the upper rpm range?
I was starting to think that I made a miss match considering that everything else is stock. I plan on getting headers later but I am just trying to get things worked out now.
 
Mike340, your partiality right. It isn't in what you decided but how you alter what you have. Any cam can be advanced or retarded for desired results that can help.

So your 110 cam is more than likely just fine.
 
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