slant 6 rebuild and upgrade list
new update (whew took me a bit to save the money.) anyway got the block back for mockup .030 overbore on the pistons and .010/.010 on the crank to clean things up. new Welch plugs and cam bearings. just got the timing chain , gasket set and oil pump. I'm not too happy about the # 1 piston and rod pin position and will have to have it "adjusted" by the machine shop so I'm confident on the piston/pin/cylinder wall clearance.
Since this will eventually be a turbo engine I would like to ask about the ring gaps. Should I adjust the ring gap extra(ohh .005 or so) on just the top ring? second ring? or both the turbo will be limited to 10lbs boost tops (more like 8 -10) I did just the top rings @.008 on my supercharged 440 about 10 years ago and didn't have any problems but I figure it's best to ask people who know a lot more than I do on the turbo setup since it's a new venture for me.
Ahhhh nice .030 bore and new Welch plugs no water leaks here now. the old plugs were weak. still have to tap out the threads with a bottom tap and clean,clean,clean for mockup.
new cam bearing plug along with the bearings.
new pistons pressed onto the rods. (rings are here too!) Now for some final cleanup and getting # 1 rod and piston re-centered, yeah I know the crank will center the rod where it is supposed to go but the pin on this rod is more to one side and "might,maybe ,could" cause problems.
still waiting on the rod and main bearings to mock up the block to see how far in the hole I am for a static compression check with the new goodies.
After I CC the head I'll go to the static compression calculator and plug in the numbers to get/see where my compression is and what I have to do to get it over 8 and less than 9. oh and some nice shiny international harvester red paint to make it pretty.
new update (whew took me a bit to save the money.) anyway got the block back for mockup .030 overbore on the pistons and .010/.010 on the crank to clean things up. new Welch plugs and cam bearings. just got the timing chain , gasket set and oil pump. I'm not too happy about the # 1 piston and rod pin position and will have to have it "adjusted" by the machine shop so I'm confident on the piston/pin/cylinder wall clearance.
Since this will eventually be a turbo engine I would like to ask about the ring gaps. Should I adjust the ring gap extra(ohh .005 or so) on just the top ring? second ring? or both the turbo will be limited to 10lbs boost tops (more like 8 -10) I did just the top rings @.008 on my supercharged 440 about 10 years ago and didn't have any problems but I figure it's best to ask people who know a lot more than I do on the turbo setup since it's a new venture for me.
Ahhhh nice .030 bore and new Welch plugs no water leaks here now. the old plugs were weak. still have to tap out the threads with a bottom tap and clean,clean,clean for mockup.
new cam bearing plug along with the bearings.
new pistons pressed onto the rods. (rings are here too!) Now for some final cleanup and getting # 1 rod and piston re-centered, yeah I know the crank will center the rod where it is supposed to go but the pin on this rod is more to one side and "might,maybe ,could" cause problems.
still waiting on the rod and main bearings to mock up the block to see how far in the hole I am for a static compression check with the new goodies.
After I CC the head I'll go to the static compression calculator and plug in the numbers to get/see where my compression is and what I have to do to get it over 8 and less than 9. oh and some nice shiny international harvester red paint to make it pretty.