72 Duster with a Rusty fuel system....how do I avoid this???

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Kern Dog

Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
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Like many of you, I have a series of project cars here that are in various stages of completion. One of the cars belongs to my Brother in law. The project started in 2007. It only needs interior work now but since the BIL lives out of state, I am storing the car in my shop.
In 2007 we replaced the gas tank with a reasonably clean used one. In the years since, the car has only been driven on the road once along with being driven in and out of the shop each time I prime or paint another car. The carburetor has been contaminated a few times from crappy fuel even with a Fram filter in between the pump and the carburetor. I do intend to replace the tank and sending unit eventually but until then, what can be done to avoid fuel contamination? Will a full tank develop less rust than a tank with only a few gallons in it?
I probably should run the carb dry when I expect to let it sit for awhile.
 
Remove the tank and have it lined at your local radiator shop. That's really the only answer. Fix it at the source.
 
Shoot, man! I thought new tanks were more expensive. I just did a google search and saw this....

http://www.carparts.com/details/Dod...igImmxWMhElYqiim1XLTsaAsEo8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sixty bucks for a new tank???
The 1970 and later cars with the EVAP system holds 16 gallons, the early ones without it hold 18. I checked the numbers for a 69 Dart since I know they also use the same fore/aft 2 strap retention.
The only question then is....Is the filler neck grommet the same size? It would suck to buy this and find the stock filler neck won't fit!
 
If you get a new one, have it line as well. It will never rust.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Remove the tank and have it lined at your local radiator shop. That's really the only answer. Fix it at the source.
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Both posts, are spot on.... Have a reputable radiator shop, line it with the red stuff. I tried some one cheaper, I paid the price, K.D....
 
I had a rusty tank in my 73 duster and I put a fuel filter at the tank and one at the carb and I still had issues. I purchased a new one for about 200 dollars. check classic industries or summit racing for a tank.
 
i just got a 67 barracuda had sat for 30 years i just clean the tank out and ran 5/16 fuel injection line from the sender to the pump
 
The tank in my 69 Barracuda was pretty bad on the inside, and 23 years ago I could not find a new one. I used the gas tank liner kit from Eastwood. It worked great. About 12 years later, my gas sending unit died. I figured I'd replace the tank while I was at it, since they were readily available by then. When I looked inside the tank, the Eastwood liner was still looking real good. It was easy to do. I highly recommend it.
 
Well, spank my monkey....
I went ahead and ordered the tank and sending unit. $120 shipped. I guess I'd better order now before they get more expensive from any Chinese tariffs that might be coming!
Sender is a 3/8" with a 1/4" vent nipple.
Even though this is for my Brother In Laws car, this does me a favor because the car should reliably start each time when I need to move it.
Back to the topic of avoiding fuel contamination.....Is a full tank better than one with only a few gallons? I wonder about condensation. Probably a non-issue though with a new tank or a coated one. My 67 Dart never seems to have trouble with the original unrusty tank. My 70 Charger is fine with the replacement tank from 2001.
 
He lives in Arizona. I'm in California.
When this project started in 2007, he was just out of college. The plan was to build the car and have him drive it back home. The bad economy made it difficult for him to find a good paying job and to advance in his life. He did move out here for three years and it was going well until he was laid off in a corporate downsizing.
He is a competent guy if he is told what to do. He lacks diagnostic skills but if he ever takes the car back home, he will surely need to develop them!
 
Kern Dog said:
He lives in Arizona. I'm in California.
When this project started in 2007, he was just out of college. The plan was to build the car and have him drive it back home. The bad economy made it difficult for him to find a good paying job and to advance in his life. He did move out here for three years and it was going well until he was laid off in a corporate downsizing.
He is a competent guy if he is told what to do. He lacks diagnostic skills but if he ever takes the car back home, he will surely need to develop them!
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do you put ethanol gas in it , or real gas ?
 
I see you ordered the tank AND sending unit. Just a word of caution, try not to damage that original sending unit. The new Chinese ones are absolute crap. I probably went through four of them before I finally gave up and sent the original one out to have it rebuilt. Don't damage or lose that original sending unit!!
 
Just want to add one more comment . Todays gasoline starts to break down after about 30 days in storage . Sta-Bil will help but additional applications must be added . No amount of filtering can cure this . The fuel is eating itself up . I suggest draining fuel system and running carb dry if long storage is anticipated . If you need to move car you can put some gas in the tank , prime the carb and with a fully charger battery start car, move it and let it run out of gas . Hope this helps .
 
Good thread. I did a camaro tank some years ago with a kit from por 15 worked great , car still runs strong , and I agree avoid ethanol blends all together(less efficient and eats carburators/aluminium) gas stabilisers help , but if the car is not being used starting it up once a month(and letting it run at least 1/2 hour)is good for everything , engine trans p.s. , pump the brakes run the fan wipers etc. ...
After six times(or months)top up with fresh gas.
I don t like to let anything sit , its never the same after long periods.
 
mopardude62 said:
I see you ordered the tank AND sending unit. Just a word of caution, try not to damage that original sending unit. The new Chinese ones are absolute crap. I probably went through four of them before I finally gave up and sent the original one out to have it rebuilt. Don't damage or lose that original sending unit!!
Click to expand...
I kind of like Rusty gas tanks.I almost got two Grand off or 66 Barracuda cuz the guy couldn't keep it running. The $200 gas tank Was a relatively easy fix. It was a little bit of a bear coming out of the 66 Barracuda the way it comes through the floorboard and stuff but Still quite cheap and easy fix for a massive problem. And I quoted this Particular comment because of what the sending unit looked like and you can almost imagine what inside the tank look like? I couldn't get nothing but red fuel out of that thing till I change the tank.
20150111_130619-2.jpg

Original oem 66 barracuda sending unit for sale cheap !
 
Oh and your answer for keeping the rust out of the tank, don't let any Oxygen in there! :thumbsup:
 
j par said:
I kind of like Rusty gas tanks.I almost got two Grand off or 66 Barracuda cuz the guy couldn't keep it running. The $200 gas tank Was a relatively easy fix. It was a little bit of a bear coming out of the 66 Barracuda the way it comes through the floorboard and stuff but Still quite cheap and easy fix for a massive problem. And I quoted this Particular comment because of what the sending unit looked like and you can almost imagine what inside the tank look like? I couldn't get nothing but red fuel out of that thing till I change the tank.
View attachment 1715026125
Original oem 66 barracuda sending unit for sale cheap !
Click to expand...
Damn! That's one hairy sending unit!
Kern Dog, save the original sending unit lock ring. I have heard of many people saying the aftermarket one they got led to leaks. If you do end up re-using the original sending unit, I'd change the float out. I cleaned mine up real good, inside and out. A couple of weeks later my gas gauge is at zero. I grounded the wire and the gauge read so I knew the gauge/wiring was good. Pulled the sending unit out and my original brass float had microscopic holes in it allowing it to fill with fuel. Wish I changed it out the first time. Only $10.
 
as stated, the trick to prevent corrosion for the tank, sending unit, and pump (on a modern FI car) is to keep the tank full.
 
I can get NON ethanol fuel but it sure isn't easy to find. Race gas here is NON ethanol and it runs over $7.00 per gallon.
I'll get some of that "Sta-Bil" and fill the tank up. I have a collection of stock fuel sender lock rings. I also have several stock sending units that look terrible. I tried checking them with my handheld electrical tester. I had some strange readings so I think I was on the wrong setting. I'll check the new sender when it arrives. Thanks everyone, I appreciate the help.
 
j par said:
I kind of like Rusty gas tanks.I almost got two Grand off or 66 Barracuda cuz the guy couldn't keep it running. The $200 gas tank Was a relatively easy fix. It was a little bit of a bear coming out of the 66 Barracuda the way it comes through the floorboard and stuff but Still quite cheap and easy fix for a massive problem. And I quoted this Particular comment because of what the sending unit looked like and you can almost imagine what inside the tank look like? I couldn't get nothing but red fuel out of that thing till I change the tank.
View attachment 1715026125
Original oem 66 barracuda sending unit for sale cheap !
Click to expand...
the one I pulled out of my fish was worse than that, it had partially fell apart. the tank even had holes in it. we have 91 octane real gas available around here for about 70 cents a gallon higher than the 91 at quicktrip. "91 used to be cheap lawnmower gas !
 
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