solid roller swap

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twayne24365

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finally got the Hughes rockers for the solid roller swap in dad's car, so aside from cam, lifters, springs, rockers, bronze distributor drive,cam button, and probably pushrods. is there anything else needed for the swap?
 
The only thing I can think of is valve covers clearing the new rockers, gaskets and coolant.
Probably best to use straight water until everything is verified.
 
valve covers should clear, they are fabed aluminum but I'll check, of course water pump and timing cover gaskets.
going to fix rear main seal as well..

and yea I'll have to break out the indicator and degree wheel. as well as check piston to valve clearance for the .690 lift
 
Is the cam billet? IIRC, bronze distributor gears are not needed for iron cams.
 
You'll wanna make sure the lifters you get won't starve the top end for oil. Apparently this was a problem several years ago. The body of the lifter allows oil to flow past and not make it into the top end. Check this article - Install A Roller Camshaft In A Small-Block Upgrade - Mopar Muscle Magazine

I do BELIEVE that many lifters now have fixed the body so this doesn't occur anymore. But you'll wanna double check that the lifters you get don't need any mods to the block to work.
 
you should call Hughes,,I was told their roller cams dont need a special gear.

Hughes also sells the specially treated steel gear, which is supposed to be a "one-&-done" part. The bronze gears do wear out rather quickly.
 
Hughes also sells the specially treated steel gear, which is supposed to be a "one-&-done" part. The bronze gears do wear out rather quickly.
I ran a bronze gear in one of my hemi`s , back in the day. it did not wear much at all for some reason. Hughs does have a gear that will work on "any" cam. I have one in my 505 w/ a solid compcams roller.
 
finally got the Hughes rockers for the solid roller swap in dad's car, so aside from cam, lifters, springs, rockers, bronze distributor drive,cam button, and probably pushrods. is there anything else needed for the swap?
When you measure for your pushrods, if you need 9.400 long rods, I have a new set, of compcams , never used , in the box. If u need them .
 
Well got most of it done, found shotty machine work. A local "well known" shop did all machine work and assembled shortblock. Had to have it re honed and align honed mains, resize rods, polish crank. All parts were brand new, but it's all straight now, fresh rings and bearings, cam is in, it's actually the old crane r280 roller .670 lift.
Comp lifters, new PAC springs #220 seat #580 over the nose. Gave the intake a light milling due to alignment issues with decked block and milled heads, should have it up and running soon!
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And yea all valves were cleaned and lapped before I reassembled the heads.
Give this thing a paint job and it'll look like something!
 
For you machinist guys... a little shot after we got the intake setup and trued in the mill
 
Well got most of it done, found shotty machine work. A local "well known" shop did all machine work and assembled shortblock. Had to have it re honed and align honed mains, resize rods, polish crank. All parts were brand new, but it's all straight now, fresh rings and bearings, cam is in, it's actually the old crane r280 roller .670 lift.
Comp lifters, new PAC springs #220 seat #580 over the nose. Gave the intake a light milling due to alignment issues with decked block and milled heads, should have it up and running soon!
View attachment 1715064490
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And yea all valves were cleaned and lapped before I reassembled the heads.
Give this thing a paint job and it'll look like something!

You are going to need some way to seal up that big gap on each side of the valley plate. I'd suggest using my "batwings". The batwings will give you a good seal to the valley plate and then you just glue paper gaskets to each side and you are good to go. Batwing gasket holders | AR Engineering
 
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