Battery in Trunk, which Fuse to use?

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MrBelvedere2

MrBelvedere2

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I did a search and looked up most threads, but still can't seem to find a definite answer.

I am doing a battery relocation to the trunk, without the ford solenoid. I know it was suggested that adding a fuse on the positive side, using 0/1 guage wire would help if it ever chaffed through and shorted. What Fuse do you guys recommend to put in line? with all the options out there my head is spinning. Thanks for any advice.
 
I used a 90 amp marine breaker made by BUSS and a #6 wire to the starter relay. And a 300 amp car audio breaker(made by stinger) to the starter on a 1/0 or 2/0 wire. It also double as a theft deturant. I shut the car off "at the main" if I'm gonna be away from it for a while. Both were eBay items. Having a little difficulty uploading pics. It says my IMG does'nt have an allowed extension??​
 
ok

IMG_20150721_200004-1.jpg
 
I ran my cable on the inside of the car, along the passenger side, thru the factory provided channel. Then up through the firewall and terminated right there on a relocated Mopar starter-relay,on the frame-rail, right where the hot-header tubes are. No fuse. I thought about a fuse. That was 1999.
 
I went to West Marine and bought a Blue Sea inline main fuse block. It uses ANL fuses. I called PowerMaster (that's the starter) and asked for their recommendation on what amp fuse to run. I run 2.0 welding cable and also run nitrous so I needed a slightly heavier fuse than most due to the fact of the starter heating up from the headers. They recommended a 400 amp fuse for my application. I think Dana is right on the money with a 300 amp fuse. I also like his idea of using a breaker instead of a fuse.
AAA Dart on 10.15.15 004.JPG
 
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