Carport using unusual construction method

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Bill Crowell

Bill Crowell

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I've got four Mopars and a Porsche, and I refuse to let any of them sit outside in the rain, so I keep them in my shop during the winter. Since they completely fill the shop, I can't work on any other big projects when the cars are inside.

So I am building a carport with a "shed" or "lean to" roof, supported by 6"-diameter concrete pillars which I am pouring in place using large PVC pipe as the form. It is going to be large: 28 X 22-1/2, so I will be able to keep all my cars in the carport (with car covers) and use the shop for restoration work and move my rotisserie around during the winter months. I'll also have room for my tractor and implements in the carport.

If anybody is interested in this construction technique, I can post more pictures.

concrete pillar construction.jpg
 
nice
simple, yet effective

totally of topic, but what is that vehicle peeking in on the right?
dually of some sorts?
 
I have a similar issue with parking and shop access. Curious if you ran rebar down through the posts, and if so, what did the multiple pieces look like wired together? I see the concrete mixer in the picture. What type of mixture did you use for this structural column work? Where you able to fill each column in one pour? and finally, are you going to pour a concrete floor for the cars to sit on?
 
spl440 said:
was Rebar also used, and are you in a earthquake zone?
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In a light earthquake zone. The pillars are reinforced with heavy pipe down the center that is also concrete-filled. As with any such building, it is the roof structure (the rafters and especially the roof sheathing) that reinforce the build and prevent wobble in the supports. This type of construction has a lot less wobble in the support structure (before the roof is added) than a conventional frame building would have, so after I add the rafters and nice, heavy roof sheathing I think it should be "brick outhouse" strong.
 
jbc426 said:
I have a similar issue with parking and shop access. Curious if you ran rebar down through the posts, and if so, what did the multiple pieces look like wired together? I see the concrete mixer in the picture. What type of mixture did you use for this structural column work? Where you able to fill each column in one pour? and finally, are you going to pour a concrete floor for the cars to sit on?
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5:1 gravel to cement, with fortifier/bonding agent.

The fortifier/bonder is a little expensive, but it really makes the concrete a lot stronger.

I usually mix a couple of small batches to fill one column because it is easier than trying to do one large batch.

For the time being I am going to bring in some decomposed granite for the floor because it isn't really any more expensive than gravel and I like it better.

I would like to add exterior walls at a later date.
 
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Have heard of decomposed granite used as a mix with tree resin instead of mixing with cement can be used for driveways and garage floors. Less washout than strait granite dust
 
craigerlitz said:
Why did you choose the concrete pillars over 6x6 lumber?
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Mainly because it was a different way to do it, and since I am doing it myself and it is going to be labor-intensive in any case, I thought it would be more interesting to build, and maybe have more visual appeal this way. So far I think I am right. It has been a lot of fun building it, and I like the way it looks.
 
And the old D-300 has really been running great, hauling gravel, cement and lumber. So as your reward for reading this thread, here is some D-series truck **** for you:

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Got a slope on that roof away from the house or to the rear?
Can't tell from the the pictures. Around these parts we call that a lean to.
I'm the family joke for building that type of construction.
When I saw you were in Cali, the first thing I thought was the pole construction and earthquakes.
I read on the internet that Japan residential construction is like that.
No load bearing walls. The lightweight roofs are supported by post with thin walls.
Since most earthquake deaths are from heavy walls and roofs that makes sense.
So what are you doing for a roof?
I didn't notice that in the thread. If it doesn't have a lot of pitch what are you going with?
 
adriver said:
Got a slope on that roof away from the house or to the rear? Can't tell from the the pictures.
So what are you doing for a roof?
I didn't notice that in the thread. If it doesn't have a lot of pitch what are you going with?
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About an 8-degree pitch away from the house. I'm going to use 3/4" OSB for the roof sheathing with a tarpaper and asphalt shingle roof.
 
I like the construction method, strong and effective. Up here we would need more pitch and permits for a 30/40 pound snow load. Didn't see you specify the height but it looks tall. Nice work.
 
Nice work Bill. Im surprised you can/will fit 5 cars in there? (600 sq ft)
Ive been wanting to do something similar(wood framed), but not too tall, maybe 8' high and sliding half walls similar to a barn. And crushed limestone for a base instead of a poured pad.
Nice to "consolidate" everything (lawnmower/snowblower/bicycles/gardening)
Love the dually too.
 
Bill Crowell said:
About an 8-degree pitch away from the house. I'm going to use 3/4" OSB for the roof sheathing with a tarpaper and asphalt shingle roof.
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I looked that pitch up.
If I'm correct in understanding the charts, that may be less than the minimum suggested for shingles. Or at least, right on the edge.
That was my concern when I asked.
IF that is the case and you change, I would suggest modified bitumen.
Also if the new roof abuts the house siding, consider the effects of splashing rain on the siding.
 
adriver said:
I looked that pitch up.
If I'm correct in understanding the charts, that may be less than the minimum suggested for shingles. Or at least, right on the edge.
That was my concern when I asked.
IF that is the case and you change, I would suggest modified bitumen.
Also if the new roof abuts the house siding, consider the effects of splashing rain on the siding.
Click to expand...
Thanks, adriver! You are right about the pitch. It's only about half the pitch that shingle manufacturers recommend. I really appreciate that you pointed this out. I am going to have to add a Grace Ice and Water Shield underlayment (or the equivalent) on the roof sheathing, before laying down the tarpaper.

My shop next to the carport has Hardiboard lapped siding, which is a masonry product and quite resistant to rot. I have caulked all the Hardiboard overlaps thoroughly with DAP "Custom Flexible Patch" elastomeric patching compound, which is the caulk that Hardiboard recommends. I really like the Hardiboard, even though it is a bit difficult to work with, and it has been really waterproof after painting and caulking with the elastomeric patching compound. No leaks whatsoever inside the barn from driving rain.
 
Interesting build and nice old truck! What did you use for footings for the pillars? Also you say "large"........I said the same about my shop and it's 24x28.......now I wish I had gone twice that size. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Interesting build and nice old truck! What did you use for footings for the pillars? Also you say "large"........I said the same about my shop and it's 24x28.......now I wish I had gone twice that size. lol
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Hi, Rusty, and thanks for chiming in.

The footings consist of 12 three-foot-deep concrete-filled postholes, in which are set lengths of 3"-diameter, 3/16"-wall steel pipe. The columns are poured around the pipe and the pipe is also cement-filled.

My shop is the building next to the carport. I'm hoping that parking as many cars as possible in the carport will give me a lot more space in the shop.
 
Where you put ice and water shield down, you shouldnt need tar paper over top of it. I have always tar papered to within 2 or 3' of drip edge than overlapped shield 1 or 2" on tar paper. Run the shield to bottom edge.
Thats how I have done it anyway.
 
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