$50 Craigslist 360 EXTREME budget rebuild??

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I am going to do the same thing for a roller challenger I bought a few weeks ago.
I have an old 318 out of my truck, dingle ball hone the cylinders, hand lap the valves, hand polish the crank, new bearings, cheap summit cam, new valve springs and oil pump.
I think I can throw it together for under $500 and have a decent running car.
To ease the budget pain, I have an LD4B intake, 3310 holley, new timing set, and a new set of car headers that have no home, this project will be to dry up some of the unused parts I have laying around.
 
Ok, first post was thinking about it. Today I started putting plan A-1 in effect : I called the person borrowing my motor stand and planning on picking it up after work tomorrow.
Now, talked it over with wife and she agreed it was 2 years ago when WE took the motor apart and now as I'm remembering back I took a little video with my phone of her taking it apart kind to give my son a hard time.
HOLD THE FORT !!!
Wife is jumping so far on board (possible overboard! LOL) and for the record I checked her ginger ale for spirits and didn't smell anything....
Says she willing to throw in a major hand if she gets to drive.
I'll go and start digging the block and parts out this weekend. Two years in a shed in a plastic bag in raining wet Oregon.
 
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This is what i get when i try uploading pictures
update : I've never had problems with posting pictures before so I just went to a snowmobile forum I frequently post on and - no problem ?
well if I can't post pictures I'll text them to a member and have them post them
 
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What intake and carb do you have for it? I could see a nickel rebuild with a mild cam upgrade, factory TQ carb/manifold and a set of headers making a great little package! A recurved distributor, and it ought to run 13s with a decent gear and tires.
 
It's got gears and tires. I'm up to my ears in 600 Edelbrocks.
Cheap swapmeet intake or trade for one.
What intake and carb do you have for it? I could see a nickel rebuild with a mild cam upgrade, factory TQ carb/manifold and a set of headers making a great little package! A recurved distributor, and it ought to run 13s with a decent gear and tires.
 
It's got gears and tires. I'm up to my ears in 600 Edelbrocks.
Cheap swapmeet intake or trade for one.

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THANK YOU hosehead! ^^^^^
I looked in the plastic bags the crank and block are in and I guess it's a good thing I put them away greasy. They don't look to bad.
 
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today a motor stand tomorrow a motor- hopefully.
Tomorrow get block on stand - roll out to my small work truck- put in bed and fog it with engine degreaser - take down to local self car wash (tree huggers will love this) and blast it! I'll dress appropriately prepared to wear most of the grease back home...
 
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today a motor stand tomorrow a motor- hopefully.
Tomorrow get block on stand - roll out to my small work truck- put in bed and fog it with engine degreaser - take down to local self car wash (tree huggers will love this) and blast it! I'll dress appropriately prepared to wear most of the grease back home...
Seriously, you are inspiring me to go dig out my rusted 360 pieces..... I have too many projects to finish. Pleeeze don't push me any further....:BangHead:
 
I'm in my own predicament here because I do have my 318 block but the 318 crank and number 3 and number 4 rod bearings ended up tin foil :BangHead:
Seriously, you are inspiring me to go dig out my rusted 360 pieces..... I have too many projects to finish. Pleeeze don't push me any further....:BangHead:
 
I'm in my own predicament here because I do have my 318 block but the 318 crank and number 3 and number 4 rod bearings ended up tin foil :BangHead:
there ya go..... 318 in the Duster and you can enter that in the 318 race, wifeee driving it :D
 
I know right? That would mean I would have to find another 318 crank or have it reground then maybe have to hang two of my 360 rod on the 318 Pistons and there goes everything. Plus the thread would even have to change its name LOL already too much work...
there ya go..... 318 in the Duster and you can enter that in the 318 race, wifeee driving it :D
 
I know right? That would mean I would have to find another 318 crank or have it reground then maybe have to hang two of my 360 rod on the 318 Pistons and there goes everything. Plus the thread would even have to change its name LOL already too much work...
LOL.... changing the name of a thread??? I'm looking forward to your build. I love throwing pieces at something and seeing what it does..... I got 30+ years of doing that.
 
Well any suggestions on prepping the block will be much appreciated. At this point I'm not sure if I should buy the dingleberries or by that three bladed thing for honin the cylinders? And I was also thinking about how to clean up places like The main bearing races and the insides of the lifter holes? I'm winging It On A Prayer here and kind of the little motivated to get it done.
LOL.... changing the name of a thread??? I'm looking forward to your build. I love throwing pieces at something and seeing what it does..... I got 30+ years of doing that.
 
Well any suggestions on prepping the block will be much appreciated. At this point I'm not sure if I should buy the dingleberries or by that three bladed thing for honin the cylinders? And I was also thinking about how to clean up places like The main bearing races and the insides of the lifter holes? I'm winging It On A Prayer here and kind of the little motivated to get it done.
dingleberries for sure.... I've used both. If too much rust everywhere, it gets time consuming because it really needs to be removed from critical areas. I don't take anything apart anymore unless I'm going to get it done. You might have to pay for the block to get hot tanked. Machine shops will know what to do to get rid of it, but they might get ya 150 bucks.... and that's what your trying to avoid.
 
It might be okay it was pretty or oily. Heck I'm already looking at some main bearings I had for the Stroker it was the number 5 bearing that didn't have the groove or the whole it had tube solid bearings two bottoms no top. So I look at Summit of course for at least a reference and the only thing they seem to sell is .010 under? Wouldn't I need stock bearings or do I need to have the crank turned down?
And good Lord if so how much is that?
 
Remember this is Extreme budget! I do realize I will have to pay for some things bearings ring gaskets excetera excetera but I'm willing to trade some stuff for it too. I already blew the wad on the Stroker motor the for Speed and blah blah blah...
 
It might be okay it was pretty or oily. Heck I'm already looking at some main bearings I had for the Stroker it was the number 5 bearing that didn't have the groove or the whole it had tube solid bearings two bottoms no top. So I look at Summit of course for at least a reference and the only thing they seem to sell is .010 under? Wouldn't I need stock bearings or do I need to have the crank turned down?
And good Lord if so how much is that?
get a spray bottle,..fill with diesel fuel,..kerosine,..heatin oil,..spray block,heads rest your greasy parts couple times a day for week or 2,soak some brushes and scrub on it some,..bottle brushes down in holes,ect ect,...then,..take pressure washer to it or load up an take to car wash,..wont be perfect but better than putting dirty motor together!! 1 dollar diesel,..what 5 at car wash,..easy on budget!
 
The problem with this plan is the time of two weeks to get started with the block that would drive me nuts, and believe you me that's a short drive! once I get a head of steam on something I like to move on it I'm still interested in it in my mind it's already going down the traction two weeks LOL
get a spray bottle,..fill with diesel fuel,..kerosine,..heatin oil,..spray block,heads rest your greasy parts couple times a day for week or 2,soak some brushes and scrub on it some,..bottle brushes down in holes,ect ect,...then,..take pressure washer to it or load up an take to car wash,..wont be perfect but better than putting dirty motor together!! 1 dollar diesel,..what 5 at car wash,..easy on budget!
 
It might be okay it was pretty or oily. Heck I'm already looking at some main bearings I had for the Stroker it was the number 5 bearing that didn't have the groove or the whole it had tube solid bearings two bottoms no top. So I look at Summit of course for at least a reference and the only thing they seem to sell is .010 under? Wouldn't I need stock bearings or do I need to have the crank turned down?
And good Lord if so how much is that?
If you have the stock bearings (rod and crank), look on the underneath of them. Many times they will have printed on them "std" for standard, .010 or the such. I try to get what was in it, and try to avoid turning the crank. Saves money. In fact, I only had one crank turned. You can polish the crank, or have it done. Turning the crank turns into $$$ for your type of build.
 
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