Front tires

Wider tires amplify the tendency to wander, if the alignment isn't perfect. Lower profile tires will amplify the shock of hitting potholes into the chassis.
A Lower ride height will also allow hitting the bumpstops earlier,and crashing low- hanging stuff under your car into things. Stuff like headers and deep pans.
A ride height other than stock or near stock, will also make it tough or even,impossible to get any significant positive caster with the factory parts and adjusters. Lack of positive caster leads to wander and high-speed instability.
>The factory ride height is not measured the way you might think. It references the inner and outer ends of the lower control arm and specifies a difference to the ground-plane. So a true factory ride height can be correct with any size tire, by sticking to the spec.This factory "ride height" is specified so that all the other alignment parameters will fall into their sweetspots , and you,the driver, will not have anything to complain about.
Choosing tires that are not of the factory diameter,or rims not of the factory offset, messes with the scrub radius. If you get too far outside this little nugget, and you crank up the negative camber, then the car starts to wander, again.
>The alignment tech will set your alignment to the straight ahead specs.Or to the straight ahead specs you specify. But if your junk is not close to what the factory junk was, and if you then have steering issues, don't fault the tech. For the most part, those guys just slam cars thru the bay, trying to pay their bills.If you got non factory parts, or want an alignment to custom specs, you need to be aware that it takes time to get it right. And time costs money.

If you want a non-stock ride height, now I am talking the height of the front K relative to the ground-plane, then it is better to achieve this with tire diameters, than it is to fudge the T-bar adjusters. Just keep an eye on the scrub radius.