Master Cyl / Wheel Cyl combo to maximize manual drum power

There are 3 common M/C bore sizes and 3 common w/c cylinder sizes. You can mix and match until you find a combo you like. All will stop your car equally well, some just requiring more pedal than others.
Some guys like the rock-hard pedal that comes with a big bore M/C. Others like me like the progressive feel of a smaller one.
These parts are cheap, so it won't break the bank to experiment.
The only trick is to size the rear wcs to match your tire width; the bigger the tire, the bigger the wc can be.

The stock 10 inch stuff was;
Front shoes;10x2.5 and wc were 1.125.
rear shoes 10x1.75, and wcs were 15/16
The M/C was 1.00

As to the M/C
If you like a hard pedal, go 33/32 or 34/32 ;These will take a bit of leg power.
If you like super progressive, go 15/16. These, your wife can power-up
As to the front W/Cs just run the factory stuff for now
As to the rear wc's
the stock ratio is about a 15% reduction in the rears to the fronts and was designed for all 4 tires being the same size.
If you are running Big-n-Littles, obviously you can run more % in the back. With really big tires you can run wider drums and wider shoes.
I highly recommend braided hoses. The feel is excellent and they last a really long time.
The strut rod bushings take a beating under hard braking; make sure they are up to the task
I actually like the feel of a well-tuned drum-brake system. They are self energizing. After the initial hit, you get to back off as the car slows down. At a stoplite the drums do a really good job of holding the line with a tight converter, with minimal leg power.
Enjoy