How to Install a TransGo TF-3 Manual Valve Body Kit in a A-904

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Corrupt_Reverend

Corrupt_Reverend

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How to Install a TransGo TF-3 Manual Valve Body Kit in a A-904

Tearing into an automatic transmission can be kind of intimidating. For most, it seems like something that has to be done by a certified technician, or perhaps a wizard.

I made this pictorial in hopes that it will show you that you don't need to be a master of the dark arts to do this modification. All you need is a few basic tools, and maybe a shot of whiskey for a dose of courage.

Installing the TransGo tf-3 manual valve body is a very simple task. It's just unfortunate that the instructions they provide can be a bit confusing.

It's important to note that this is not a perfect step-by-step for every torqueflite. There have been small changes over the years and across platforms. Because of this, I highly suggest that this guide be used as supplemental information along with the kit instructions. TransGo makes notes of all the small differences, and what needs to be done due to these differences.

With all that out of the way, let's get started!

View attachment 1714971870

  • First step is to pop off the e-clip on the throttle pressure shaft. I just use a flat-blade screwdriver.

    Once the clip is removed, you can remove the rooster-comb (The thing with a "K" and an "E" stamped on it) and slide out the throttle pressure shaft (the thing that the clip was on).

    Pretty simple, right?

    View attachment 1714971871
  • When you remove the rooster-comb, this ball will pop out. It goes in the little hole above and to the left of my finger in this photo along with a small spring.

    Set these aside for now.

    View attachment 1714971872
  • Here's the parts you should have removed by now.

    View attachment 1714971873
  • Next thing you want to do is remove the shift valve piston.

    The piston is the part sitting on the red towel, and it comes out of the hole under the finger on the left. This piston will be discarded.

    View attachment 1714971874
  • Now remove this bracket.

    There are three screws holding this on. Be careful! There are springs under tension being held back that will want to liberate themselves once the bracket is off.

    View attachment 1714971875
  • Here I've already removed one screw, and am removing the side screw.

    View attachment 1714971876
  • Here's the third screw on the other side of the bracket.

    View attachment 1714971877
  • Here you can see the bracket once it's removed and the two springs.

    View attachment 1714971878
  • It's now time to split the valve body.

    View attachment 1714971879
  • There are 13 screws you need to remove.

    View attachment 1714971880
  • Feeling nervous? Don't worry, it's easy.

    View attachment 1714971881
  • Here's the inside of my valve body. Yours should be similar though there may be slight variations pending on year and model of car.

    Make particular note of where all those little balls go!

    View attachment 1714971882
  • This is how I keep them organized. Just used a bit of Styrofoam left over from my torque converter packaging.

    However you go about this, just don't lose them!

    View attachment 1714971883
  • Next up, you're going to want to use a large file and file a groove directly across this hole. File approximately half-way through the material here.

    View attachment 1714971884
  • That wasn't so bad, was it? Be sure to clean out any filing after each step that involves material removal.

    View attachment 1714971885
  • Now grab the "mumbly peg" that came with the TransGo kit. Use it to hold that little spring-loaded ball in place (with the spring inserted of course!)

    View attachment 1714971886
  • Here's how it should look.

    View attachment 1714971887
  • Install the new shift valve piston (the one that came with the kit) and reinstall the rooster-comb and throttle pressure shaft.

    View attachment 1714971888
  • Be sure to get the little arm of the rooster-comb into the slot in the piston.

    View attachment 1714971889
  • Now we're going to check the piston stroke. Now click the rooster comb all the way down so that the new piston is as far into the valve body as it will go. (It's not all the way down in this picture)

    View attachment 1714971890
  • See how the piston is visible through the valve-body passages?

    View attachment 1714971891
  • You want to make sure that the piston face that I'm pointing at is within .03" of being flush with that passage wall.

    If you need to move it, do so by bending the little arm that goes in the slot at the end of the piston.

    View attachment 1714971892
  • Now you're going to want to remove this piston and set it aside.

    View attachment 1714971893
  • You're going to need to drill a hole through this wall beside the slot (see where I'm pointing with the screw driver?).

    Use the tiny .046"drill bit that is included with the tf-3 kit.

    You'll want to be careful here. It is a pain in the dick to remove a broken drill bit... Go ahead. Ask me how I know. :(

    View attachment 1714971894
  • Now you need to remove the TV piston. You can see it in the previous picture right above the new shift valve piston that we already installed. The next picture also shows where it it.

    View attachment 1714971895
  • Location of the TV piston assembly.

    View attachment 1714971896
  • Now you need to take the inner-most piece of the TV valve piston and grind down the small end to about 9/32" in length.

    The instructions for the kit has a scale picture you can use as a guide.

    View attachment 1714971897
  • Here it is after being shortened.

    I just used die grinder with a coarse sanding pad. It will get quite warm so be sure to have it secured in some way that will not damage it. I used this little spring-clamp to hold it while grinding.

    View attachment 1714971898
  • Now replace the spring that goes in the middle of the tv assembly and put the whole assembly back in the valve body.

    The kit has both a pink, and yellow replacement spring. You want to use whichever one matches yours most closely. For me, it was the yellow spring.

    View attachment 1714971899
  • Now take the 3/16"drill bit that came in your kit and the drill depth spacer springie thing. You want the drill bit to only stick out 7/16".

    Your kit comes with a little paper measuring gauge to help set this.

    View attachment 1714971900
  • Install the drill guide plate as shown. Drill through the hole in the plate, using the springy spacer thing to manage the depth.

    My valve body already had a hole here, but I still used the plate and drill bit to open it up to 3/16".

    View attachment 1714971901
  • Here's what it should look like when you're done drilling.

    View attachment 1714971902
  • Remove this plate. Be careful! There is a spring in there.

    View attachment 1714971903
  • Once you've removed the plate, you can remove the 1-2 governor valve.

    View attachment 1714971904
  • Here is what the governor valve looks like. You're going to need to modify it as shown in the instructions (page 2, step 5)

    View attachment 1714971905
  • Here's what it should look like when you're done. The instructions say it can be done using a grinder. I didn't want to fiddle with it, so I just had a machine shop turn it on a lathe.

    View attachment 1714971906
  • Now you need to remove these three screws and the plate and aluminum part they hold on.

    View attachment 1714971907
  • This guy is also spring loaded so again, be careful.

    View attachment 1714971908
  • You don't need to disassemble the cast aluminum part that you removed so just set it aside.

    View attachment 1714971909
  • Now you're going to replace this spring with the one in the kit (pictured).

    View attachment 1714971910
  • Now you're going to need to do some drilling on the plate.

    instructions explain which holes need to be drilled. You also may not need to drill these. It depends on your specific valve body so consult the instructions on this.

    In this picture, I'm pointing at the first hold I need to drill. You will use the bit that was included with the kit.

    View attachment 1714971911
  • before drilling the plate, you'll need to remove it.

    There are four screws that hold the plate onto the valve body.

    View attachment 1714971912
  • First hole drilled.

    View attachment 1714971913
  • Second hole drilled.

    View attachment 1714971914
  • Third hole drilled.

    View attachment 1714971915

    View attachment 1714971916
  • Last hole drilled.

    View attachment 1714971917
  • Back to the valve body.

    Using two of the bolts that held the valve body in the transmission along with a crew that came in the kit, you need to align this place and drill a hole at either end of the slot.

View attachment 1714971918

  • I forgot to replace this and had to take the valve body apart when I was done. :(

    I'm holding the old style barrel type that was in the valve body. The conical replacement is the new style and a direct replacement for the barrel type.

    Your valve body may or may not have this part.

    View attachment 1714971919
  • Now it's time to button this back up.

    Be sure to thoroughly clean all the metal filings and any sludge before bolting it back together!

    First, reinstall the plate.

    View attachment 1714971920
  • Put all the little balls back where they came from.

    View attachment 1714971921
  • Install this plate using the screws included in the kit.

    View attachment 1714971922
  • Install these two plates as shown.

    View attachment 1714971923
  • Use one of the screws from the kit and a washer.

    View attachment 1714971924
  • Now for some adjustments.

    You want to back out the allen crew here...

    View attachment 1714971925
  • Until this spring retained plate is just flush with the bracket.

    You'll also need to adjust the TV screw, but I forgot to take pictures of that. The instructions detail how to do it.

    View attachment 1714971926
  • Now let's take short break from the valve body.

    I just used a hammer to tap this plug into the transmission.

    The instructions say to use a 5/16" punch, but the plug kept getting stuck on the punch when I tried that.

    View attachment 1714971927
  • Back to the valve body. You should have it all back together now.

    View attachment 1714971928
  • Now would be a good time to replace the seal that goes around the throttle pressure shaft.

    View attachment 1714971929
  • No more leaky leaky!

    View attachment 1714971930
  • I'm using the felt filter that came with my rebuild kit. Saving the mesh filter for after my first fluid change.

    If you install the mesh filter, don't forget the gasket.

    View attachment 1714971931
  • Just bolt it back on! (Not shown was replacing the accumulator spring but that's very simple.)
  • Now give yourself a pat on the back, crack open your adult beverage of choice, and marvel at this sight which perfectly sums up your own mechanical aptitude!

    So there you have it. It wasn't so bad, was it?

    Now crawl under your car and get started! :D
Click to expand...

Read more about this article here...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Howdy.
I have a TF-3 kit in a TF valve body going to install the engine and trans into the car today. what happens to the throttle pressure shaft given it's a full manual conversion?
Cheers
Tony
 
Retroboy said:
Howdy.
I have a TF-3 kit in a TF valve body going to install the engine and trans into the car today. what happens to the throttle pressure shaft given it's a full manual conversion?
Cheers
Tony
Click to expand...

You can toss it in the corner.

BUT! According to Transgo, the lever on the trans should be wired all the way back. See step #8.

attachment.php
 
retroboy: Like badsport said, you can toss the linkages and just wire the kd lever all the way back. I just used some bailing wire. And if you go with an aftermarket shifter, you can do away with the shift linkages too! (I installed a Hurst promatic 2 ratchet shifter)

if you do decide to install a different shifter, I highly recommend mounting the shifter before putting the tranny back in. I did it the other way around and it was a major pita.
 
i just had my 727 trans rebuilt and supposedly tf-3 installed, shifts are weak, builder said i must ran throttle pressure lever! i had already read i didnt have to, he also says no probs to do 1st gear burnouts. WTF!
 
rigger3006 said:
i just had my 727 trans rebuilt and supposedly tf-3 installed, shifts are weak, builder said i must ran throttle pressure lever! i had already read i didnt have to, he also says no probs to do 1st gear burnouts. WTF!
Click to expand...

Does it have engine compression in 1st gear?
 
Great timing!:) I'm getting ready to rebuild my spare 904. Thank you for taking the time to post this up:)
 
I'm pretty sure you could do your own manual VB without the transgo kit. You would not worry about the Throttle valve spring if you are just going to wire the lever back. Also you could raise the line pressure by bleeding off some of fluid acting against it. Drill a few holes plug a few passages and you would be good to go.
 
Just so you know I ran the car last week-end and after everything here still didn't tie the KD linkage back and it felt like I had no 2nd gear to speak of. So I tried going 1st to 3rd and there was a delay before it shifted and it still felt like crap.
Cheers
 
Corrupt_Reverend said:
Maybe you should wire that lever back. :)

Super easy. Takes like, 2 minutes under the car.
Click to expand...
Or....You could mount a pull cable ( like a throttle lock cable on a 4WD) To adjust the Kickdown leaver in, out or somewhere in between. That way you can manually change the line pressure to soften the shifts around town and then firm them up when needed by simply pulling the handle ;)
You really need a pressure gauge to dial in the pressures to where you want them. I've got an electronic line pressure adjustment in the works at the moment.
 
Retroboy said:
Just so you know I ran the car last week-end and after everything here still didn't tie the KD linkage back and it felt like I had no 2nd gear to speak of. So I tried going 1st to 3rd and there was a delay before it shifted and it still felt like crap.
Cheers
Click to expand...
Did you fit the TF3 kit yourself? Do you have any idea what your doing? Understanding what the TF3 modifications actually do to the trans would make the problem solving process a little easier for you. Forget calling it a KD linkage , because with the TF-3, you have lost that function. It should now be called the shift quality lever, because that's what it's pretty much now adjusting.
Wire the lever all the way back, take it for a drive and then report back here.
 
Bakerlite said:
Or....You could mount a pull cable ( like a throttle lock cable on a 4WD) To adjust the Kickdown leaver in, out or somewhere in between. That way you can manually change the line pressure to soften the shifts around town and then firm them up when needed by simply pulling the handle ;)
You really need a pressure gauge to dial in the pressures to where you want them. I've got an electronic line pressure adjustment in the works at the moment.
Click to expand...

Okay, that's weird. I have given serious thought to doing exactly that!

There's an army surplus store down the road from me that has cables that adjust via a knob that you turn that I think would fit the bill nicely. I just wasn't sure if it's a good idea to actively adjust the pressure. If I'm understanding things correctly (probably not...), such an adjustment you change the firmness of the shifts? Is that how it works? So you could dial it back from daily city driving and crank it up when you want to bang the gears?
 
Yes, that's how it works. basically when you push on the KD lever, you are depressing the throttle valve in and boosting the line pressure in the trans. Checking out the line pressure test procedure in the factory manual will show you how much of a change this makes to the PSI reading when you push on the lever. I think you will find about a 50 PSI increase in line pressure when you fully depress the lever. So if your making 90 PSI line pressure at 1000 Rpm and then push the lever in all the way, it will go up to around 140 PSI. So if your adjusting max line pressure via the blue spring you installed, then it should be done with the KD lever in it's full on position.
The reason for this is because as you press the gas pedal down ( connected to the KD lever), the trans figures it's under more load so it raises the line pressure this way to prevent the bands and clutch packs breaking away.
Keep in mind that there will be a minimum line pressure that the TF3 will want to operate smoothly at. You may have to set the KD lever to about 1/3 in as your base adjustment and then use the cable to pull it on to full adjustment. trial and error will sort it out.
 
Either cable or throttle linkage...It's a nice feature that the Transgo kit has over other manual valve bodies.
 
Just get a choke cable kit and set it up. My brother did this back in 78. I don't think this is a great idea for a street driven car, you can damage the trans if you have the pressure to low.
I would just tie it back for full pressure all the time or hook up a throttle cable or linkage. It's your trans
 
Great thread and thank you. Transmissions can be a little different and have to require some different things depending on the year but one thing this article didn't cover was Step 1 page 2 drilling a hole in the side of the body where that check ball is and you have to change the spring. It does say the skip these instructions if you valve body doesn't have a hole that plate. I want to watch the video it didn't seem like the one that was being worked on had that whole so apparently you didn't have to drill the hole in the side of the valve body. Anyways there is another step that wasn't covered for the kind of transmission I have and I wasn't sure where to drill it this far as how far up or down they were wanting it? But me being me I just damn the torpedoes and put it where I thought I gotta go a little higher.
 
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