904 transmission shifting adjustments

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I will look at that closer when i have the valve covers off, any idea on checking the adjustment of these 273 rocker arms. Is there anything to worry about the wear, i dont think so because you take up the slack when adjusting them?

I am guessing the accumulator spring is already gone, but i will check next time i have the pan off. your right about tieing the arm to transmission instead of the frame, that will be tricky, but i am sure i can come up with something. Is there a right away to fix this when i have the pan off? I am wondering if he might have had intentions to put a trans brake on this thing.

hooker super competition headers 5204 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-5204-1hkr

Do you think those mufflers would be more quite than the ones i have? I am going to add a H pipe, that should help.

cam specs, see picture

compression ratio, see pictures, also included a picture of all my blue printing and math, and used summits calculator, lol

I cant find a stall speed anywhere...i found an invoice from G.E.R. part number g-19732, 10" converter, i have their original catalog but it doesn't list the specs. I believe they are out of business now. see picture. GER pro-street magnum converters for nitrous oxide and or supercharged (custom built) for drag strip and street racing. Also had an invoice for a 10 plus F/C transbrake trans: 904 340 1972 ext 4:56 3100 lbs, but i dont see a part number, not sure what they are referring to on the invoice, it was $344 back in 1993.

Rear gears are currently 390s with 26" tall tires, the car also came with a set of 456 gears, but i have to change the yoke.

found a note for 3100 pounds...what is a stock curb weight? He cut alot of weight out of this car.

904's can take a beating huh? that good to know

Traction bars, yah, i was just playing around with them, they were free. i need to get more time driving this thing around to see how things are working.

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I can't believe what I'm seeing. Yikes!

Be safe.
 
I don't mean to be a jerk or anything but I am going to say what I think, and others probably think but are not saying.

It seems to me you are putting an awful lot of emphasis on parts based on how fast it might go instead of how long it will go.
In my opinion you need to get some basics straightened out before you spend a bunch of money on go fast parts.
Your car will be the most expensive car broke down on the side of the road if you keep doing it this way.

Get the throttle pressure cable kit and get that trans working right.
The cable isn't there to be tied in one place, it's supposed to vary when and how hard the trans shifts from one gear to the next depending on throttle position.
That power steering line for the cooler lines was a good call, maybe a little overkill but better than burning the trans or the car down from spraying fluid.

Just my own opinion obviously.
 
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Ok I thought since I have a manual valve body we don't need the kick down control cable?

I am going to change the trans coover lines. I think I can get some aluminum tubing or stainless steel briaded lines that will be easier to work with than the stock steel lines.
 
i found this thread where it talks about tying the kd lever back (says it actually doesn't act as a kick down lever any more, it adjusts how it shifts)

How to Install a TransGo TF-3 Manual Valve Body Kit in a A-904

I have 4 different books on this transmission and none of them are very helpfull when it comes to manual valve bodies. I think my biggest issue is im not sure what the previous owner put in there nor do i have any paper work or directions on the valve body, and im guessing he got the valve body for GER thunderbolt, which is no longer in business so i dont think i could get paper work.

If i pull the pan will i be able to identify which valve body i have? If i can find out what i have and get some literature on it, i think i could make some adjustments, or decide if i truly need this kick down linkage.

One guy said he hooked the lever up to a adjustable cable so he could make adjustments on the fly.

This would make sense, because the previous owner had it tied forward, and when you really got on it, it seemed like it would slip, and you would have to get off the throttle and then it would engage...now that i have it tied toward the rear i get a solid shift while staying on the throttle.
 
What do you guys think about this kickdown lever. Should I leaved it tied toward the rear or get one of those lokar cable kits? I'm 99% sure this is a after market manual valve body.

What do guys think about this trans cooler, previous owner has the factory trans cooler in the radiator and an additional air cooler mounted on the front of the radiator? It kind of makes a night mare for running steel cooler lines.

What do you guys use for transmission cooler lines?

Also looking for a nice eng. oil pressure line instead of that plastic crap it comes with.

Steel lines would be a bugger.
Copper lines?
Aluminum?
AN stainless steel braided hoses?

Thanks for your input guys
 
Copper for engine oil and make sure you put a grommet to protect ti through the firewall.
Steel lines for trans cooler all the way from trans to cooler, if needed just a few inches at cooler to connect the lines and use trans cooler hose. You can put sections of fuel line over the steel line to protect it when near other parts.
 
My guess is that ur valve body has a Trans Go -3 manual kit installed in it. It needs the kd lever tied to the rear or u can use a cable or linkage as the factory did. Kim
 
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