A833 Shifter lever help

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andy007007

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Hi have been in the process of making my own shift lever and realised that the levers on my box are the wrong ones. (they are 1052725/1052724/1052723 from what I can tell they are to fit a top loader) 1/2 and 3/4 are usable but the reverse has to be replaced. as the angle of the dangle is completely wrong.

I understand the ones i need are 890/891/967

wondering if someone would be able to measure the levers. figure if the throw on the mopar levers is longer then i will only change the reverse.

many thanks in advance
Andrew

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andy007..

this may be a dumb response on my part .... but you can determine the "length" of all three shift rods very easily.

the way ALL stock manual trans shift levers are adjusted is to install the flat plates on the 1/2 and 3/4 trans "shift bolts" and place each in "neutral." do the same with the reverse trans bolt. then line up all three shift forks on your shifter so they are exactly inline with each other. if you have a Hurst shifter, there should be an allignment hold drilled in each shifting fork. line up the forks and put a small bolt or large diameter wire through all three forks. then measure the distance from the trans bolts flat plates to the shifter forks.

on a 833 trans in an A body, the reverse shift lever has to have a bend in it due to the trans cross-member. to get the correct "bend" in this rod you will need to put the shifter in reverse and the trans in reverse. then attach the rod to the to either the trans bolt or the shifter reverse fork and move both back and forth so you can determine how much of a bend you need to clear the trans cross-member.

when you get some rods made up and attached to the trans and the shifter, the final adjustment is made by shifting the shifter through all the gears and adjusting the rods so the trans is firmly in each gear while the shifter is in the right location for that gear.

i hope this helps...
 
Yeah those levers look to be tough to make work. The factory ones are offset in the inboard/outboard plane.The rearmost lever is offset to the passenger side, and the rod comes in from behind. The front lever is offset outboard and the lever enters from the drivers side. This arrangement allows the rods to so operate without interference. The clocking on the correct ones puts the levers vertical. And they are both the same length. Shorter levers are faster. On the tranny with the 3.09 low, the 1-2 split is pretty wide so a slightly longer lever there gives the brass a few more microseconds to bring second gear up to speed, as the engine rpm finally falls far enough.
The factory shifter will accommodate various length levers, within a narrow range.
I think Brewers has what you need.
Oh dear, I see you are in NZ
I also see you are being creative with the offset thing, and making it work. Your 1-2 lever will work for sure, it appears to be the right length. The 3-4 appears to be a little longer, but I'm pretty sure the shifter will accommodate that. Pretty sure, not 100% sure.
I see the holes in those levers are sized for bushings.How are you handling that?
I guess reverse is gonna be tough.....
 
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Many thanks for the responses.
I have bushings to go in the levers. I am just using some threaded rod and old female rod ends I had lying around. Will eventually tap some 1/2" rod and use some male 3/8 rod ends. I wanted to try and keep the rods straight as I can be a little hard on gearboxes and gear levers. Only requires a slight enlarging of the factory notch to keep them straight.
The clocking on the reverse is terrible when reverse is engaged the lever is parallel to the ground so you can't shift it back out of reverse hence why I need to change to the 967 lever
The shifter is a supershifter2 rather than the stock mopar one
I think you may be right that the factory levers are shorter
Brewers are pretty reasonable freight still sucks.
More than anything freight is so unpredictable brought some valve covers and got them sent to me cost $20 at the same time brought a set of piston rings from elsewhere and they cost $80 to send both turned up the same day. In saying that I got a console out of Canada for 100 freight though it took 3 months to get to me
 
Many thanks for the responses.
I have bushings to go in the levers. I am just using some threaded rod and old female rod ends I had lying around. Will eventually tap some 1/2" rod and use some male 3/8 rod ends. I wanted to try and keep the rods straight as I can be a little hard on gearboxes and gear levers. Only requires a slight enlarging of the factory notch to keep them straight.
The clocking on the reverse is terrible when reverse is engaged the lever is parallel to the ground so you can't shift it back out of reverse hence why I need to change to the 967 lever
The shifter is a supershifter2 rather than the stock mopar one
I think you may be right that the factory levers are shorter
Brewers are pretty reasonable freight still sucks.
More than anything freight is so unpredictable brought some valve covers and got them sent to me cost $20 at the same time brought a set of piston rings from elsewhere and they cost $80 to send both turned up the same day. In saying that I got a console out of Canada for 100 freight though it took 3 months to get to me
Super shifters have travel limiters on the mainbody. If you have two different length levers, you will only be able to stop the longest lever, the 3-4 in this case. First doesn't need one, but you know how hard you tug that 1-2 shift, so be kind to it,lol. Honestly tho,the A833 has very strong internal stops, and I've never heard of anybody busting one. If you have steel forks, forget about it. If a brass fork resides on the 1-2, well, I guess we'll hear about it,lol.
Reverse at the trans is lever pointed up and all the way back. I'm sure you have thought of creatively cutting your lever and re-arranging the clocking. Those levers are incredibly hard tho.Just don't make it too short. If you do, you will have to delay your N-R shift, to just before the cluster stops spinning so it won't grind. It's just a timing deal;nobigthing.
I raised my short stick shifter (Mr.Gasket Bang,circa 1971)up on a custom mount I fabbed up, to where the rods were nearly parallel to the ground.The shifter is so high that the top bolt goes in from the cabin.I also moved it back about 7 inches to the front corner of the bucket. This let's me hammer those shifts while my back is firmly planted in the seat. I haven't missed a shift since I finished this mod, which was in about 2004..No special ends.Just try to find the tell-tale breaks in the blackies, where I shifted!
Carry-on, and all the best to you.
 
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