about to pull the trigger on a scarebird kit

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That China thing is really the culprit. I bought a brand new Accel distributor for my daughter's car and a brand new Blaster II coil. The distributor lasted about 14 months before the rotor and cap crapped out. The coil died a few weeks later. Used to be a distributor cap and rotor lasted 60-70 thousand miles and coil would last for 20 years (or more!!).............those days a long gone.
The really sick part of this story is that, even though I bought the distributor brand new 14 months ago, Accel stopped making new rotor and caps for it!! I had to buy a new (different type/style rotor and cap) to get the car running again and because the new cap had different plug terminals I had to buy new plug wires. I was really pissed and called Accel, they said that the company had been "bought out" three times in the last 4 years and that there was nothing anyone could do about the lack of replacement parts.
I don't trust Accel anymore and to prove my distrust I ordered an extra "replacement" electronic distributor module just in case they stop reproducing them......I'm pissed off!!!!!

SORRY ABOUT GETTING OFF TOPIC!!

treblig
 
The rotor just happened to have the proper diameter and center register size. If it fit a caravan would you guys still complain.
 
diymirage said:
anything i need to know before i do...or any good reasons NOT to go this route?
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does the scarebird kit leave the wheels in the stock place or does it move them out towards the fender,also do you think this kit would work better then a stock kelsey hays 4 piston system?
 
Not much of a difference the rotor hat is a little thicker than the old drum so they suggest longer studs which they give you a dorman part number. Maybe an 1/8th inch.
 
diymirage said:
thanks for all the advise guys
sure makes me feel better

anyone happen to be running 14 inch slotted mags with them?


got a build thread on that?
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I'm running 14" rally wheels but when I was moving it around in the shop I used the magnum 500 wheels (but I did re-drill to LBP for fronts and rear.) not SBP wheels so there might be a difference. I might have a set of ansens laying around here to test for slotted mag fitment (again LBP)
 
ebodykwv said:
does the scarebird kit leave the wheels in the stock place or does it move them out towards the fender,also do you think this kit would work better then a stock kelsey hays 4 piston system?
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It will move the wheels out by the thickness of the rotor minus the thickness of the drum, so not much

As for the difference with the KH brakes, I don't know
I based this choice more on availability then anything else

I guess the real question would be if a 50 year old 4 piston design would outbreak a 10 year old dual piston desing

(And on a side note, Captain Jack is out, they require 10 inch drum spindles)
 
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abodyjoe said:
ok so it uses all 73-up repop stuff with a sleeve for the upper ball joint.. are they special rotors then to give you small bolt using 73-up spindles then?
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Good question. I thought when looking at the link it was also to convert to LBP too. If it is st I'll SBP they must be drilling a standard rotor to the small pattern?
 
4mulas said:
Good question. I thought when looking at the link it was also to convert to LBP too. If it is st I'll SBP they must be drilling a standard rotor to the small pattern?
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then the center of the rotor will be too big for a small bolt wheel. same problem as the wildwood set up has.
 
OP..I had a difficult time getting the hubs separated from the drums on front with SBP. There is a tool called a swedge cutter to help but others have been able to cut and grind or press them out. The rest of the conversion went smoothly for me. I added a proportioning valve to my setup.
 
jlhunsinger said:
OP..I had a difficult time getting the hubs separated from the drums on front with SBP. There is a tool called a swedge cutter to help but others have been able to cut and grind or press them out. The rest of the conversion went smoothly for me. I added a proportioning valve to my setup.
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thanks for the heads up
i had new bearings installed last fall, so in guessing the hubs wont be too tight
 
diymirage said:
thanks for the heads up
i had new bearings installed last fall, so in guessing the hubs wont be too tight
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The hubs on mine were basically fastened into the drum using what's apparently called a swedge. So on scarebird kit you have to retain the hubs and discard the drum. Getting those apart was a pain for me but I didn't have many tools to work with
 
jlhunsinger said:
The hubs on mine were basically fastened into the drum using what's apparently called a swedge. So on scarebird kit you have to retain the hubs and discard the drum. Getting those apart was a pain for me but I didn't have many tools to work with
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I think I know what your saying
But it seems the swedge on the lugs protruded passed the hub and when they installed the drums and torqued down the rims, they expanded a but, clamping down on the drums?

Maybe, I don't know
But the drums should slide on and off, if all is well
 
I had a lapse of memory there, sorry. The swedge issue I ran into was when trying to change out the studs for longer ones. Not fastened hub to drum.
 
I will chime in on the KHers.For a streeter, IMO,they are fabulous, Mine have been on the car since 1999. They have required ZERO maintenance in 125,000 miles.They accept any period wheels. And pad swapping is a in and out deal. I used Dot5 in a new install, and have only added fluid once. I also installed some braided hoses at that time. Awesome feel, awesome street brakes. Withstood multiple stops from a hundredPlus miles an hour to 30 ish at the top of the track.I cannot recommend then enough. There is a guy here on FABO that refurbishes them for resale. A little pricey perhaps, but his work looks really nice. If you have 275s or more on the back and 10 inch drums, you can run these without a P-valve and stop really, really, hard.I think I have 15/16 wcs back there. And a 15/16 M/C too.
 
The MBM/Pirate Jack kit uses '73 and newer A,B,E,F,M,J,R body rotors with the bolt pattern re-drilled and the register machined to fit OEM wheels.

Unfortunately, this will increase the track width something like 5/8" per side, which negates the use of stock 5 x 4" bolt pattern wheels.
 
diymirage said:
I think I know what your saying
But it seems the swedge on the lugs protruded passed the hub and when they installed the drums and torqued down the rims, they expanded a but, clamping down on the drums?

Maybe, I don't know
But the drums should slide on and off, if all is well
Click to expand...
The tight splines are not "swedges", they are there to provide a conforming grip when the studs are drawn or pressed (hammered?:eek:) in. The studs on front hubs w/drums are
equipped with intentionally longer splines that are then swaged after the drums are slipped on to retain them. This can be done w/a solid sleeve like fixture, or a sleeve/bit type
that puts a number of stakes in the protruding section of stud spline. These drums are not supposed to slide off, the same as later rear drums on Mopar's FWD stuff.
 
I bought this kit staying small bolt pattern

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