HELP! finding correct U-joint

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BIG-B-Barracuda

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STEERING U-JOINT

1968 barracuda notch
1973 RB 440
727 trans - 8 3/4 rear end
power steering
power brakes (disc front drums rear)
steering box ???? unable to get numbers off of it (tight squeeze)

stock everything -
Okay so the last time i attempted this i tried about two or three different u-joints that didn't work for me to the connection point of the steering box - was using with flaming river steering column i currently have on a stock column and will be using stock column.

So first things first.
the cuppler where the steering column meets the basket (stock u-joint) attachment that connects to the steering box came apart allowing the steering wheel to pull out if pulled on.

Question #1 can i use an after market u-joint with stock steering column and stock steering box?

Question #2 What U-joint am i shopping for?
 
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You can use several different U-joints. I used one from Borgeson. There are a couple different size steering shafts and spline count steering boxes for our cars if I remember correctly. You want to count the number of splines on the steering box, and measure the OD of the steering box shaft as well as the OD of the steering column shaft. In my application I had to cut the steering shaft and drill holes in a drill press. The Borgeson box I swapped 2 was a different reach then stock so I cannot give you the exact part number as I am not sure it would work on your application.
 
the seal and cover came off the coupling body allowing the shaft to pull out while the coupling body was still safely attached to steering box.

proper termonology
 
Unless there's a clearance issue ( headers? ) why not just rebuild the OEM box coupling? There's a wire retainer that will hold the box top in place. Links to that little wonder were posted in a thread just yesterday.
 
WHERE would one source a rebuild kit?
i took a look at it and this thing looks trashed will need new seal and cover and some re greasing.

NOT SURE that i would know how to attach the cover/seal on to the coupling body.
 
Ebay, The rebuild kit and that retainer are sold separately though.
The kit does include a new cover but.. The bottle cap like crimping is a biotch to reproduce by hand, especially with the rubber seal working against you.
 
looks like ebay has them.

the hold/attachment point on these stock coupling bodies to seal/cover looks really flimsy though i wouldn't want it to come apart again.

suggestions?
 
yes! attaching attempting to crimp on - i was taking a long look at that and was def'. ! something i was foreseeing... thanks for seconding that though.
 
The box coupling was supposed to come off the steering gear along with the column ( after driving a split pin out. You're not the first to yank the thing apart though. If you'll take the box off the steering gear, rebuild it, install it with the wire clamp cap retainer, you probably wont have another problem with it ( don't yank its guts out again LOL ).
 
That was my post from yesterday going from power steering to manual steering on a 1970 and up Dodge Dart
heres what you need from advanced auto and ebay

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THANKS guys found #425-253 part number rebuild kit at my local Orileys for only $7.23 -

going to try that route and see if i can successfully crimp these together shut to where it will not fall apart again.
 
BUT here is a question i will surely ask in the coming week on trying to fix this.

How to or best way - to crimp these together? without messing anything up? special tool? press?
 
Just for everyones FYI... The coupling rebuild kit also includes the cross pin that was pressed into the steering shaft. That pin may or may not need to be replaced. If it does show significant wear ( egg shaped ends ) and should be replaced, You probably can beat the original out with a very big hammer and punch. All that handling/hammering wont be good for the signal switch and other parts in hand.
Then more beating to get the new one in and centered ( same length extending both sides ) wont be so easy either. The best plan... take the column apart, remove the shaft, take it and the new pin to a arbor press.
If you're lucky that pin wont be so worn that it needs replaced. That is a judgement call that I wont make for other owners.
I will add this... If I hadn't taken my last example completely apart, I might not have discovered this column also needed a new upper bearing. I hadn't felt its roar in the car / in the steering wheel.
 
BUT here is a question i will surely ask in the coming week on trying to fix this.

How to or best way - to crimp these together? without messing anything up? special tool? press?
Folks have tried all sorts of tools, small c clamps, tong type vise grips, and hammer w/chisel of course, with a variance of success. Maybe you'll post what method worked for you. Good luck
 
the big difference... that vehicle is a truck, with its rag joint, and intermediate shaft.
Your vehicle doesn't have a intermediate shaft. So you'll have the entire column unless / until you disassemble it. Taking a pizzy lil intermediate shaft to the workbench? They should all be so easy.
 
I FEEL like an idiot last night there i was squeezing through the madness under the car maneuvering my hands and arms through the tight squeeze which is an A-body with a four forty step number one remove the pin off of the coupling body to slide out the column in one fell swoop.

step number one disaster.
After a few attempts with short, long, thin, too thick of a rod that would serve as a pin press i finally found a long/short thing/thick so so' brass rod that would help i set in place and hammered the thing in one, two hits i felt it push out 1/4 of the pin out come out from under the car check it out think to myself that should be good enough to pull out with pliers or something go back under and ... and... MY rod is stuck jaja'

Not having none of that so i spray the thing down with penetrating oil and leave it for the night.
 
Driving the split pin out... I always set the steering up centered, wheel straight ahead, puts the roll pin vertical to engine side of coupling and drive it out. I do have a long pin drift for the job though. The pin drives back in from top down too. I'm guessing your exhaust is in the way. LA is easy access, slant 6 is too easy access LOL
Anyway, in this centered position the box coupling has a small notch in its lower edge. Notch is in line with the master spline at steering wheel end of shaft. If this goes back together 180 degrees wrong the steering wheel lands upside down. Then you'll probably file away that master spline so the wheel slides on any which a way ( been there done that ).
If others members want to argue that some aftermarket U joint is a easier solution at whatever cost, I couldn't disagree. I never installed one of those. That original box coupling would need to come off regardless. Good luck
 
Got the stuck rod out- just pushed it out the oppo. way. Boy is it a hassle to deal with the whole column rather a small shaft.

after some finagling of attempting to install the seal/cover onto the coupling body and many many failures i gave up and jumped on Ebay and bought the coupling body CLAMP.

thank you @440DART1971 i have to be completely honest that is a part i haven't seen before and didn't even know about. should work wonders. great tips.
 
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