Could anyone recommend me Electronic Distributor Conversion Kits for 1963 225 valiant?

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Narek H

Narek H

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Could anyone recommend me Electronic Distributor Conversion Kits for 1963 225 valiant?

Im thinking to switch from point system to the electronic/magnetic (not sure what the correct term is).

Anyone can guide me where I can get the best values parts?
 
If you get the petronix 1, get the petronix 3 ohm coil while you're at it.

Then takeout/bypass the ballast resistor.
 
emsvitil said:
If you get the petronix 1, get the petronix 3 ohm coil while you're at it.

Then takeout/bypass the ballast resistor.
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Yes be sure to use the correct coil for the Pertronix kit used. Also make sure to bypass the ballast if required! I love my III and flamethrower III coil!
 
Or you can go over to a standard Chrysler slant 6 electronic distributor and modual. I ran the electronic distributor with an HEI modual and a HEI style coil for a long time. Started awesome and better fuel mileage with a .048" plug gap. Slant six.org is where the info is. Great place for slant 6 info.

Good luck with choice.

image.jpg
 
Build it just like Chrysler designed it.
Parts store rebuilt 1973 Dart electronic distributor
Chrysler ecu of your choice
Electronic voltage regulator
Mopar Performance harness
You could install the whole thing,up and running in about
an hour or so.
 
I am with Johnny Dart on this one. I did an electronic ignition upgrade on a 68 dart back in 2012. I even installed a few used parts at the time and its still running great and reliable to this day. I like use only original type parts on these car. Re-man distributors and main components are still available from parts stores. Mopar performance sells the wiring harness, which I found is a really good way to go because it was designed by mopar for exactly this kind of swap. If you have a salvage yard near by with mopar cars into the late 70's you can get the O.E. style bolts with the little anchor stamped on the head which is totally O.E. Napa auto even sells the pigtail connector needed to convert to the more reliable 70+ voltage regulator. A bit more leg work but the end product will look like Chrysler put it there from the beginning

CIMG0593.jpg
 
Thank you everyone for the great ideas. Now that makes me ask if anyone has a mopar distributor that is for sale? The OEM ones from 70's?
 
Narek H said:
Thank you everyone for the great ideas. Now that makes me ask if anyone has a mopar distributor that is for sale? The OEM ones from 70's?
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OReilly, Autozone, any chain auto parts store.Maybe find an NOS one on Ebay.
More than likely, the rebuilt one will be rebuilt by a company called Cardone.
Go in, and ask for a distributor for a 1974 Dart slant six.
It will be electronic.
 
Be sure and keep the distributor to block bracket, as replacements don't usually come with them.
 
Go pertronix and skip all that crap!

No rewiring and it is better than an orange box or less!
 
I fear the OP is getting confused. I think Pertronix will only fit in an original points distributor (1970 down). If so, Pertronix Ignitor II or III is best. I understand the original Ignitor requires keeping the ballast (might depend on coil). Pertronix biggest advantage is it all fits under the cap. Cheaper is a Crane Cams XR700 optical conversion. I have several I won't use, so PM if interested (some might be new). But those use an external box and require the ballast (i.e. a bit dated electronics). A GM 8-pin HEI is probably best, but more work & requires a 1971+ e-distributor.
 
Op did say 63 slant.

Pertronix is a sure fit and easy install.
 
1969383S said:
Op did say 63 slant.
Pertronix is a sure fit and easy install.
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In post# 12, the OP is considering a 1970's distributor, hence my comment that Pertronix won't fit. For such an e-distributor, a GM 8-pin module & coil is probably best (85-95 V-8), many posts and TrailBeast here kits the parts for those afraid of junkyards.

Re post #18, no hate, but I think there is no HEI big cap for a slant six engine (sorry I can't access the link).
 
I have a late model LB dizzy that was a challenge due to the advance weights but the III fit it fine and welding fixed the advance issue I needed for my advanced application! The III GM style Pertronix HE dropped right in. Not sure where the year application stops the OP from going this direction. An aftermarket dizzy is dirt cheap and saves making wiring changes that can daunt many!
 
Post #20 suggests that Ignitor III fits a later e-distributor. I went to Pertronix's site, but couldn't tell. They want you to enter the PN code on the side of your distributor. Anyway, could be an option for those w/ 1971+ cars who want to upgrade from the Mopar electronic ignition and simplify the wiring and firewall (no ballast or external ECU box), and gives a stronger spark and rev limiting.
 
Yep, I bought a spec points dizzy from abc for a 69 383 and got a late model type unit with the diagonal type advance slots instead of parallel straight slots. The III unit fit just fine, adjusted the total mech for my application was my only issue. Just go to the website and put in your dizzy number and you will know what fits. I think think they cover most everything but dual point and the later electronic dizzy's. I had the upgraded electronic from 85 with a Gold box and the III
 
Hey Guys,

I was reading this post and want to do an electronic conversion for my 65 with a 225. What is the difference between the different Pertronix products and what do you guys recommend. Also, I already have an MSD blaster coil...do you still recommend I buy one from Pertronix?
 
Syleng1 said:
Or you can go over to a standard Chrysler slant 6 electronic distributor and modual. I ran the electronic distributor with an HEI modual and a HEI style coil for a long time. Started awesome and better fuel mileage with a .048" plug gap. Slant six.org is where the info is. Great place for slant 6 info.

Good luck with choice.

View attachment 1715033337
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Love the HEI module upgrade. Like adding fuel injection is to throttle response, it starts and idles soooooooooo much better. Actually turned down the idle to 450rpm to adjust the valves while running. Best advice for a budget, period.
 
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