QA1 install.

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Cuprum-74

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Well. I went ahead and did it. I purchased the QA1 Tubular K-member.
I got tired of constantly fixing the original K-members welds. It also doesn't help that I have a cheap 15 yr old Craftsmen welder to deal with.

So I pulled the trigger and bought the setup from Summit.
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SWEET!!! how's it handle?
Handles much better! A little better ride as well, a little stiff over bumps but that can be mainly due to the KYB performance shocks.
But then again this is not a Cadillac, nor do I want it to ride like one. I can still drive 3+ hours in this thing pretty comfortably.
Solved a bunch of alignment issues that was causing it to munch tires in a very short order every time the welds broke loose.

Next on the list is to get a set of lower control arms with sway bay mounts.
 
Of course, according to my wife. I can't purchase any more aftermarket stuff for the Duster for awhile. I mean a long while. As she would say: "You spent the Duster allowance for the next year."
That's ok I can get creative with scrap metal and jaunts to the local salvage yard. :thumbsup:
 
Looks like a nice piece for the price. It doesn't specify on their website, so the answer is probably no, but does it have provisions for a Mustang II rack? I saw the sway bar provisions, and they look to be right about where the rack would mount so I'm just curious.
 
Handles much better! A little better ride as well, a little stiff over bumps but that can be mainly due to the KYB performance shocks.
But then again this is not a Cadillac, nor do I want it to ride like one. I can still drive 3+ hours in this thing pretty comfortably.
Solved a bunch of alignment issues that was causing it to munch tires in a very short order every time the welds broke loose.

Next on the list is to get a set of lower control arms with sway bay mounts.
How does your steering box mount? Mine doesnt align straight with column. Its a 68 cuda

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Sterering box is not supposed to be straight. Its a by product of the narrower design of the newer box. The slight angle is not an issue for the my coupler.
 
was there ant wieght difference from the stock one? and did it give you a lot more room for motor and header fit?
 
For what it is worth, the K frame itself is not the big offender when it comes to weight or room.....The biggest weight savings in a aftermarket K rack and pinion package comes from the elimination of the idler arm, drag link, and pitman arm. The room savings is the elimination of the steering box and torsion bars, both still utilized with a Qa1 aftermarket K.

I do like the Qa1 K for this mod.....I think it is perfect. (JMHO).....Personally, I would add a Wilwood 4-piston, drilled rotors, powder coated front brake package to shed weight and stop on a dime. Keep or use factory drum spindles, last I checked, their new brake kit is drilled for 4 or 4.5 bolt circle and keeps the hubs tucked in......unlike the 73 and up Mopar spindle, disc brake swap that adds weight, only available in the 4.5 bolt circle, and moves the hubs outward as much as an inch or more.
 
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My first experience with a qa1 k as a prototype was it did not use conical washers like the factory one. Are the production units different? My second concern is the strength of the cantilevered attachment for the strut rod. Otherwise, Id like to hear from people who have done direct swaps where the k was the only change.
Did everything fit exactly as before?
As a contributor of the front end chassis stiffness, this can be beneficial swap if it is significantly stiffer than the original.
 
I don't see the point. The QA1 uses all of the stock steering parts, torsion bars, etc. So the only clearance you might gain is for an oil pan, all the tight spots for the headers are still there. And it only saves a few pounds according to QA1, not even double digits if I remember right.

Unless you can't get ahold of a straight stock K to seam weld and gusset I think there's a lot of better ways to spend that much money.
 
Yeah only saving like between 6-7 lbs I think, not much. The reason I got this was I could'nt find a decent K-member for a good price. They were all wanting $150-200 here locally. I did try getting one out of state which did not work out. And plus I'm a novice welder with a POS flux core. I will have to pay someone to professionaly weld it. Which I quoted and the cheapest was $100.
So I said F*** it. I'm paying $400 to get it done in a week vs. several weeks.
 
What was the part number? Also, what engine mounts? I also have a 74 Duster that I just ordered the QA1 upper control arms. The lowers and K-Member are next maybe.

Bunch of new stuff to put on next weekend if all goes right.
 
I made 5 k members for stock steering that used the stock components. Mine were 13lbs lighter than factory made from .120 wall 1-5/8 tubing. How does that QA1 weigh so much? Anyone know what they are made from?

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Did the bolts that tie it to the frame come with the K frame or did you have to spend to get what looks like a longer bolt in the front. I am just in the process of ordering one for my Demon. Thanks
 
qa1 k member comes with the bolts
70aar... Is correct!

So as an update I am thinking about converting this car to power steering. From the looks of things the new K-member does offer a little more room, however the headers are going to be a problem possibly. Will update once I mock things up.
 
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