340 build

OK, I missed some Q's. In no particular order:
- The ARP studs are designed to be reused. (All head bolts for SBM LA's can be reused, but they can eventually stretch.) The ARP studs clamp the heads and gaskets harder to block and keep things sealed up better. I'd surely keep them after examining them to see if you can detect any stretched threads.
- Yes with the cam sprocket off, you can push the cam all the way back. Its fore-aft position is controlled when things get fully re-assembled.
- I'd expect the intake valves to float first since they are larger and heavier. Follow the hit pattern on the piston to see if that matches what you see; I think it will, with the way you have numbered even and odd pistons (which is non-Mopar numbering). It will also vary with things like individual spring stiffness so there may be no set pattern just due to that. The pistons towards the front are higher so would be hit easier. Ultimately it is not important if if was valve float.
- Yep telescope gauges are tricky....
- Honing can remove a little or a lot of material; some shops will final finish the bore size with a hone. The shop should be able to control it. Ask them how much will come out after you and the shop get everything measured up, and where the piston to bore clearance will end up. Ideally, you will end up at .003"-.004". A bit more will work but the piston ring seal will degrade sooner, the looser they are. I ran some TRW forged pistons for almost 100k miles starting with .004" piston to bore clearance. They worked fine but the ring seal was going away fast in the last 15-20 k miles. It would fog the whole locale every time I put the throttle down LOL
- .055" or .060" will work for me. .055" will keep things a bit tighter on quench. If you go with Cometics, get the bore holes made at 4.125".