FiTech EFI system

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Hi ToMang07,
All of the FiTech efi systems use the same 900 cfm throttle body. I believe their HP ratings are based on the fuel requirements for a given HP. They increase the number of fuel injectors to increase the HP capacity/rating. I guess it's possible you could have enough fuel, but run out of cfm capacity at the higher HP levels (at higher rpms), but I think you'd be fine. I just don't see many big block owners running 1000 cfm carburetors, unless they have all out race motors that have much more than 500 HP.

Travis
 
74SwingerSpe said:
Hi ToMang07,
All of the FiTech efi systems use the same 900 cfm throttle body. I believe their HP ratings are based on the fuel requirements for a given HP. They increase the number of fuel injectors to increase the HP capacity/rating. I guess it's possible you could have enough fuel, but run out of cfm capacity at the higher HP levels (at higher rpms), but I think you'd be fine. I just don't see many big block owners running 1000 cfm carburetors, unless they have all out race motors that have much more than 500 HP.

Travis
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That's why I asked. I know there's a difference between "on paper" and real life. I have no doubts that they can move the fuel, it's just the air restrictions I'm worried about. 900CFM is better tho, where'd you get that # from? Everything I have found said 800cfm. I appreciate the response!
 
ToMang07 said:
That's why I asked. I know there's a difference between "on paper" and real life. I have no doubts that they can move the fuel, it's just the air restrictions I'm worried about. 900CFM is better tho, where'd you get that # from? Everything I have found said 800cfm. I appreciate the response!
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885 cfm to be exact, and the above statements by 74 swinger are correct. The 1200 HP units are based on some form of forced induction. CFM is identical across the board on all units.
On a street 440 that see's occasional track time, you'd be fine, in my opinion, and you wouldn't gain anything by more CFM than 885/900.

now if we stroke that engine, and it's race only, then yes, the 900 CFM gets outran by the CID and RPM of the engine.

again the power ratings are purely based on fuel flow ability. If you outrun 900 CFM...then there's no magic cure other than forced induction to get more air down its throat.
 
Hey guys/gals with a Fitech system. Over on the Chevelle forum, a concern was posted about the supplied filter we get with the plumbing kits .

the arrow on the fuel filter itself points a certain way and the instructions show a different setup. On disassembly, the member there found that the fuel flow direction as indicated in the instruction pictures is the correct way and it is opposite to the arrow on the filter body. I had mine installed with the arrow towards the throttle body but have changed it around.

FITECH Fuel Filter installation diagram question - Chevelle Tech

FYI
Ken
 
Thanks for pointing this out! as I hadn't even noticed this...

upload_2017-3-28_10-14-52.png
 
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clv22p said:
Is that only for the one that comes with the FCC?
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no, that filter is the post filter in the framerail pump too.

let me get with them for clarification, because clearly its pictured the complete opposite in the frame-rail instructions.
 
Johnny Pace said:
no, that filter is the post filter in the framerail pump too.

let me get with them for clarification, because clearly its pictured the complete opposite in the frame-rail instructions.
Click to expand...

Thanks for checking with them, I don't have time to call them today.
Ken
 
ken5124 said:
Thanks for checking with them, I don't have time to call them today.
Ken
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No problem. Something clearly doesn't jive. The FCC and the frame rail pump show completely opposite flow directions in the diagram.
 
ken5124 said:
Thanks for checking with them, I don't have time to call them today.
Ken
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Ok, Here's the deal, right from Fitech.

The spring is not for bypass purposes, its just to secure the filter. And the arrow is to be followed regardless of diagram…

The frame rail sketch is correct
The FCC sketch (at the time of this post) is incorrect

The arrow on the canister is to be followed, and pointing at the TB.

The spring is NOT a bypass....follow the arrow. as i'm sure 99% of you have.
 
All,

I have always taken the arrows on anything to indicate the direction of "flow" whether it is air, water, fuel etc. I am using a typical low pressure metal filter on mech side and it too has an directional arrow.

I'm nearly done with my install of the engine and the new FiTech. The interweb info is giving me a headache. Latest discussion here and elsewhere is whether to use a shielded wire for tach signal. Or vacuum line changes? Is my unit delivered in Dec 2016 config'd correctly. TB Vacuum line to the TB regulator is how it is arranged, did some of the previous units come w/o?

When will they put out a revised instruction on their site? I looked and did not find a new one or the usual "Support" page that has s/w and hardware updates, as well latest instructions etc.

Shame on the Chevelle dude for supposedly tuning with out monitoring AFR. There goes a ton of dyno $$$ down the commode. His #'s will be skewed...........Was he even looking at the plugs?

Johnny thank's for the support.

Marion

Marion
 
Yes earlier units came with no vacuum line hooked to the regulators and same for the FCC.. I have hooked both of mine to vacuum source as Fitech no recommends.

They really need to update their literature, for sure. The revised info seems to show up in the FAQ pages and are scattered around.

Ken
 
All,

I'm doing my fitech harness right now for my 360 Dart. Where does everyone stash their main harness portion with all of the fuses? I'm not fanatical but looking to keep everything noice and clean. I was thinking about a project box maybe? I'm planning on going back towards the dizzy around the firewall past the dist block to a bosch relay that I'm going to use.

Also is there a switched 12v source on the starter relay to tap into to switch the fan/fitech 85 location. I may use the brn/blu wires from the dist blk for the fitech but for my elec fans I want to stay close to the front of the car to keep down the clutter.

Getting very close.

Thanks,
Marion
 
ken5124 said:
Yes earlier units came with no vacuum line hooked to the regulators and same for the FCC.. I have hooked both of mine to vacuum source as Fitech no recommends.

They really need to update their literature, for sure. The revised info seems to show up in the FAQ pages and are scattered around.

Ken
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Well that is my concern. Another vac line to the FCC? My experience with boosted cars is to have a pressure source to the fuel reg to account for the delta in boost vs fuel pressures, as the turbo will be working against incoming fuel at the injector. I don't see any need there for that on a NA Car. As far as the vac source to the onboard regulator, that is always the correct way to do it. With an aeromovite adj reg I set the base pressure w/o vacuum (43.5 psi on older cars), then added the vac line and the pressure drops accordingly, maybe 5 psi maybe. The Fitech unit is non-adj and comes already connected so we are good there. Na and Boosted cars are different Cats.

This is the sort of thing that does give me some pause about the FiTEch crew and/or the Interweb.

I'm leary because I'm going to be running in a new motor ;( that has been in the works forever!

Marion
 
105 fault codes. Anybody solve them yet? Many say it's o2 sensor related. My logs are full of them. Swapped out the wideband and am still getting them. Have an email out to Cody at Fitec but as usual, their support is slow or non-responsive. Called today and they took my number but never called back.
 
Has anyone ran two fuel lines to the fitech. I talked to a guy at aeromotive as I have the a1000 pump and a1000 regulator with 10 an in and out and 6an return he said I should run 8an from reg split it and run two 6an to the fitech. so I built a duel line set up similar to a duel fuel line on a carb to hook up on the front two ports of the fitech any input on this
 
I read something about the ignition table of this system, which made me have a look at the software, but does the timing advance table really only have 3x3 fields?
 
ken5124 said:
I have a drop based air cleaner on my Fitech.. Had to use a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the fuel line and then clock the air cleaner housing ( it has 2 indents on it), so the indent lines up with the fuel fitting, but it works fine. Think it was a Morosso base.

Like this one :View attachment 1715009655
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Sorry, been away from this thread while I've been completely rewiring my Duster (my winter project). I have very little clearance with my air cleaner and hood. I ended up using a shorter air cleaner with an offset, this was the one I went with and it worked out great:

JEGS Performance Products 50001: Air Cleaner with Smooth Top 14" x 2" | JEGS

555-50001_4.jpg
 
got a question? is there a production car out today that has a fuel tank with pump with return lines and all that flows enuff gph and presser to run a fitech 600hp pa kit?? if so witch ones could be converted to a A body the best??
 
give the tanksinc setup a look, they have an efi tank that i am very happy with the quality, i opted out of there walbro pump an used an aeromotive stealth drop in with there pump assembly.
 
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