Pardon me for my lack of tact. My response was not out of anger. I just pointed out incorrect information. The old hat way you speak of was to center the pattern on a non roller type factory rocker, and guys continue to apply that to rollers. You can't mill the stand down .080" and expect to improve valvetrain stability with a roller rocker. It just ain't happening. Another point you are missing, is that with a stick rocker, the higher the valve lift, the further off the geometry became. But, with a roller rocker, it is exactly the opposite. Low net lifts need more correction than higher lifts, so if someone isn't willing to correct it, my only recommendation is to put stock rockers back on the motor. I've told plenty of people that over the years.
Btw, I wasn't considering your buttload comment when I replied. It is what it is. When you know what your looking at, and it can't possibly be right without it, the cost becomes relative to how right you want your motor to be. That being said, spending extra money for "good" rocker arms that need just as much, or more correction than a cheaper adequate alternative is where the real money is wasted in my book.