Miss and carb tuning troubleshooting

Q1,Are your exhaust pipes shared between sides?

I'm going with a bad header-flange gasket on the side that pops.
At closed throttle decelleration, the headers will pull a vacuum at the flange, and if the AFR is rich,or the ignition timing is late,the still burning gas mixes with the fresh air being sucked in by the header, and explodes, causing a pop in the pipe. If the exhaust was dropped you would probably see flames coming out of the collector.
This is more apparent under compression braking as the engine draws excessive amounts of fuel past the not-quite-closed-enough throttles.So that leads to the question,
Q2) what is your idle speed? and Q3) have you synced up your Transfer ports?What Champion heat range does your plug crossover to? I run Champion RN12YCs, IIRC, 12s are fairly cool. Your engine might like 9s.
So to recap; get your T-port synced up, hoping to set the idle closer to 650/700 in Neutral, Put the carb back to stock,and fix the header-flange leak. If you have an IR gun, you might be able to prove the leak. It will be the tube that runs the hottest about 2 to 3 inches from the flange. It will be at least 100 to 300 degrees hotter than the others. It runs hotter cuz the gas is burning in the pipe.
Good luck.
BTW
Once the T-port sync is established, do not mess with the speed screw! Don't be surprised if it takes less initial timing to slow the engine down. 15* is, IMO, too much for a cam that idles at 18/19 inches. I think 10 or 12 will be better. Getting the transfers synced at idle is job #1.
For help with this click on the little blue M below, or go visit the Holley site.

Also,IMO 35* at 2500 is too much . But if it doesn't detonate then I guess you are alright. I just know that I would not run that much. Then again,I run 87E10, in my 10.9compression 367cuber.
Q4) What stall are you running?

A1) They are shared, has an h-pipe placed in about 12 inches from the collector flange. You know, you might be right, I don't recall a miss on that side before I put headers on (Dougs), that or it wasn't audible enough to hear with the old quiet exhaust and I didn't notice. There is no leaks I can hear of, but I'll pick up a cheap IR gun at harbor freight to check.

A2) Idle speed is set at 950, in gear about 650.

A3) As far as I know they haven't been synced by the last owner and I have not done so myself, but I will most definitely read up about it and follow your write up. NGK BKR6Es are the equivalent of Champion RN9YCs, so I think I am good there.

Once the T-port is synced I'll check timing and see what she ends up liking better, and I might be getting away with 35 because I throw Chevron 91 in all of my rigs, Cali gas is piss water with all the junk they put in it lol.

A4) Stall is at about 2000 rpm, stock as far as I know.

Really appreciate the response, as this is a great starting point for sure, thanks. I wanna tear it apart right now, but damn I have to wait for the weekend.

is the needle steady? you say 18 to 19", but at what idle rpm?
I agree with the suggestion to look for an exhaust leak, that could be a source of the popping noise.

Needle doesn't move at all at my 950 rpm idle, have to give her a good rev for them to come up at all, in gear I am not sure though as I don't have another head to stay on the brakes while I check. And I hope it's that simple, it's pretty damn loud when I hold the rpm up steady in park vrrmmmmmmmm POP vrmmmmmmmmmm POP vrrrrmmmm POP POP, pretty inconsistent.

Do you see any wisps of smoke rising up, or a fog of vaporized fuel. That usually means worn needle and seat, and/or too high float level.

No smokey here when I checked right after got home from stop and go traffic.