Haha, the car is pretty loud, it's the certain rpms where it doesn't drone that I can hear it.
As for the stall, it does stall at 2000 rpm when I gas the car with the brakes applied, I was just saying that's what I have seen is stock for a factory 318?Ok I get it then, Teeners are listed at about 1750. 340s were 2250.
Curb idle, yes, 950 rpm on a warm motor, choke confirmed all the way open, 650 once it's dropped in gear. It's been a while since I did the idle, but I remember that's what it ended up being when I set it as per Edelbrock's instructions on setting idle mixture. But I have a feeling if it is reset lower, the car might stall if I put it in gear if curb idle is at 750. Should I try and see? or just leave it as is for now until I rebuild the carb and set it this weekend. Following your T-port guide, what do I go abouts for the idle mix screws?
950 is way to high for a cam that could pull 18inches at 700. An engine that pulls 18 at 700, should idle at 700 or even less. (Shoot my 367 only pulls 9 or 10 and I can pull it down to 550 with the clutch. It normally idles at 700.)
So, prior to the carb-rebuild,the first thing I would do is verify the TDC mark.
Then,I would crank the curb-idle down to 700,and check the vacuum.After every change in rpm and or timing, the mixture screws may need to be reset.
Then I would advance the distributor timing until the rpm no longer increases and or the vacuum no longer increases. Then I would reduce the curb idle back to 700. Then I would reset the dizzy again to max rpm/max vacuum, and reduce the rpm back to 700 again. Then I would lock the brakes and put it in manual low, and read the in-gear rpm.This is the optimum idle setting.
>However, it is not always possible with carbs and dizzys to run this optimum setting.Sometimes the T-port sync gets so far off that things go wrong;
Perhaps it gets a hesitation or stumble whenever you tip in the throttle, no matter where/what the pumpshot is set to.
Or, as soon as the engine sees the slightest load it might start pinging.
Or the timing is so advanced that it kicks the starter back.
Or the transfers dry up, and the engine stalls when you put it into gear.
But now at least you have a reference point to work from. And the thing I want to see is how the in-gear idle now compares to the in-Neutral rpm.That's what I would do. Of course the TDC mark needs to be verified first.
Then, as soon as the carb comes off, check the transfer slot exposure. It should be square to slightly taller than wide. Make it so.During the rebuild you may be instructed to back the curb idle screw out for certain adjustments. When you come to the end of the rebuild, be sure to reset the T-port sync.
Then, figure out how to get the curb idle screw back to this setting so that when you screw around with it, you can find it again without taking the carb off.
What I do is count the number of turns (to the nearest 1/4 turn) it takes to back out the screw until the throttle is completely closed, but the tiniest turn of the screw sets the plates in motion. Write it down, cuz you will forget it.
Finally reset the mixture screws to 2.5 turns out, cuz the engine may be hard to keep running with as messed up as I made it earlier.This is a preliminary setting.
Do not mess much with the curb idle speed after this.
Set the idle-speed with timing and idle-air bypass.
Reset the mixture screws as may be required. If the mixture screws need to be closed up to less than 1.5, then the t-ports are too far open, back out the curb idle screw, and try again. If the mixture screws need to be out further than 2.5 turns then the transfers exposure is insufficient crank in the curb idle screw, and reset the mixture screws. The goal is to have the engine idling sweetly at or near 2turns.
The transfers are your low-speed fuel delivery system.
The mixture screws are mostly for idle enrichment.
PCV, hmm, it's tapped off the rear center port on the carb as how it was when I got the car, but there is another port on the front that is the same diameter. When you turn the carb upside down, I think you will see that the PCV should be connected to the front side of the carb, and you will see why; the passage is interconnected to both primaries. And I think you will see that if you hook it to the back, the rear four cylinders will run lean, especially the two rearmost. Oh, and that might be the source of your AFR monkey business. If your O2 sensor is in the merge or near to it, it will get all mixed up. That back port is for the powerbrake booster
Vacuum can is tapped of the spark port on the front lower left of the carb.The one that is dead at idle right?
