help needed with 904

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Really like the pic of the duster.

The 318 sticker on the back though... trying to snag some unsuspecting victims? LOL
 
The car came to us with a 318 and I put that corny stuff on it. It was my own twisted mopar nod to the police interceptor 318 that was believed to be in it. (I believe it to be so) but it's originally a /6...

DNasty777 said:
Really like the pic of the duster.

The 318 sticker on the back though... trying to snag some unsuspecting victims? LOL
Click to expand...
 
I think you're all set for parts now, but I've used Bulkpart.com or John Cope (Cope Racing Transmissions) for my transmission stuff for years now.
Some newbie hints - 5 cans of carb clean won't do it. Get a couple gallons of laquer thinner and a couple deep pans. One pan for "first cleaning", one pan for "final cleaning".
Shop air is your friend.
Get a couple brass bristle brushes to clean out the valve body.
Take one transmission apart at a time and don't confuse the snap rings or thrust washers.
Replace the tailshaft, 2nd gear drum, and pump bushings. If you can't do them all - do the tailshaft. All can be done without special tools.
Don't use a 5.0 lever on the kickdown band.
Do use vasoline or trans assembly grease - not white lube or heavier grease.
2 dental/seal picks really help assembling the clutch packs.
(too late for you) always check end play with a dial indicator before you start, and after you finish. It will "find" errors quickly.
Do not install the pump outer seal or sealing rings until final assembly.
Make sure the vent is clear when cleaning the pump.
Easiest way to assemble is the pump opening facing straight up.
Make sure the kickdown drum is fully engaging all the high gear clutch plates when you assemble. You can easily align the teeth using the two picks before you install the drum.
Pay attention to the kickdown band lever ratio (stamped into the side of it), and the appropriate band adjustment setting for the lever you are using.
Air test the trans before the valve body goes on.
Don't overtighten the valve body or trans pan bolts.
 
All Great stuff!!
My cleaning process - environmental safe parts cleaner first round and carb cleaner final cleaning?
What I really need to point out here is technique!
Technique! Technique! Technique!!
Guys Like Trail Beast and Moper here or not only given basic instruction but let me say this one more time, technique-tricks of the trade if you will.
It was very informative to watch TylerW's videos and inspiring, but any time you have the chance to learn techniques do so. To many times in my experience I've had the knowledge to get me by but in was technique that was my learning curve. Example: learning to do shower tile. Watched the u tube videos, but til I figured out what that clicking noise was off camera things went slow. Oh that clicking noise was the technique! I kept trying to scoop the mud out with my trawl and I was making a mess and it was slow. I kept going back and watching the videos and figured out that it must be that he has another trowel there to scoop the mud out and wipe it on the trowel that I'm using! I got it! And the job went extremely fast after I figured out the TECHNIQUE !! wife still loves the shower to this day it turned out amazing. Just made $500 the other day doing subway tile tub for a contractor friend. I don't like doing it but it pays. So what's the word of the day????
FYI I'm not a tile guy...



moper said:
I think you're all set for parts now, but I've used Bulkpart.com or John Cope (Cope Racing Transmissions) for my transmission stuff for years now.
Some newbie hints - 5 cans of carb clean won't do it. Get a couple gallons of laquer thinner and a couple deep pans. One pan for "first cleaning", one pan for "final cleaning".
Shop air is your friend.
Get a couple brass bristle brushes to clean out the valve body.
Take one transmission apart at a time and don't confuse the snap rings or thrust washers.
Replace the tailshaft, 2nd gear drum, and pump bushings. If you can't do them all - do the tailshaft. All can be done without special tools.
Don't use a 5.0 lever on the kickdown band.
Do use vasoline or trans assembly grease - not white lube or heavier grease.
2 dental/seal picks really help assembling the clutch packs.
(too late for you) always check end play with a dial indicator before you start, and after you finish. It will "find" errors quickly.
Do not install the pump outer seal or sealing rings until final assembly.
Make sure the vent is clear when cleaning the pump.
Easiest way to assemble is the pump opening facing straight up.
Make sure the kickdown drum is fully engaging all the high gear clutch plates when you assemble. You can easily align the teeth using the two picks before you install the drum.
Pay attention to the kickdown band lever ratio (stamped into the side of it), and the appropriate band adjustment setting for the lever you are using.
Air test the trans before the valve body goes on.
Don't overtighten the valve body or trans pan bolts.
Click to expand...
 
Okay well let me get out there and start getting parts cleaned and finish the teardown. I bought a couple Harbor Freight C clamps so I'm going to make an effort to get those seals out of the bottom of those clutch baskets. Any techniques for doing that? LOL besides cursing and knuckle breaking LOL
 
I know I'm putting the carriage before the horse but I can't help my brain! It's always thinking ahead to The Next Step before I even get anything else done. So I'm definitely if it's affordable and possible wanting a manual valve body. I'll give you my reasons because lot of people don't like doing stuff without knowing why like myself. The car is a total toy and fun and for entertainment so having a full valve would not be Troublesome as a matter of fact it would for the cars intent purpose be welcome. ( just kind of being a badass nasty car)
Soooo any cheap suggestions? Not so cheap that it will blow the transmission up in 20 minutes but you know... get the job done?
 
Buy a good brand, and it would probably wise to run a low band apply type also. I have had good luck with turbo action for years
 
So getting things cleaned up here and I'm not liking the top pressure plate. It seems to be depressed more in the center than on the outer edges? Not warped but I'm not sure if it's supposed to be that way and like not reversible? I know everyone's going to kill me for throwing that back in there a but I'm not spending more money! Okay so now I'm about to clean up the last five parts and put the new seals in and restock everything period I better start soaking the clutches. I'm assuming the drum that has the snap ring I can leave alone because I don't believe there's any more seals under there? This is where you speak up or hold your peace LOL okay back to cleaning those parts and then I'll check if I got any answers if not I'm just going to go for it. Oh yeah and that checkpoint check ball that I'm pointing at what's that all about? I'm leaving it in there just cleaning it up.
20170502_124542.jpg
 
It was 4 clutches in three metal plates right!? Oh yeah and here's a picture of a little mini feeler gauge that I have that I believe I can use to work the seals in speaking of which there are some that are extremely extremely close inside and I have to get out a magnifying glass and start reading numbers on the seals to make sure period even pulled out a micrometer on one oddly enough
20170502_133845.jpg
 
j par said:
So getting things cleaned up here and I'm not liking the top pressure plate. It seems to be depressed more in the center than on the outer edges? Not warped but I'm not sure if it's supposed to be that way and like not reversible? I know everyone's going to kill me for throwing that back in there a but I'm not spending more money! Okay so now I'm about to clean up the last five parts and put the new seals in and restock everything period I better start soaking the clutches. I'm assuming the drum that has the snap ring I can leave alone because I don't believe there's any more seals under there? This is where you speak up or hold your peace LOL okay back to cleaning those parts and then I'll check if I got any answers if not I'm just going to go for it. Oh yeah and that checkpoint check ball that I'm pointing at what's that all about? I'm leaving it in there just cleaning it up.
View attachment 1715043651
Click to expand...
If the pressure plate is not flat against a sheet of glass on at least the clutch side, throw it away; it will make big trouble.
Both clutch packs have hydraulic pistons in them.
The best way to install those pistons back into the bores is with a generous application of silicon O-ring lubricant, and a very small SS wire tool. The feeler gauges will often cut the new seals, and there is only one correct one of each in the kit. If you do not use the silicon, I will try not to laugh when your clutch packs fail the pressure test.The silicon goes on all,ALL, the pertinent faces, both the metal and the rubber. It can be done without the silicon, but for me there was a bit of frustration involved with the learning curve.
 
Well then I better stop cleaning part right now. Go grab the other transmission and start getting parts out of it?
 
Could have been rebuilt that way before and that's what burned everything up? LOL
 
Crap I'm not going to go get parts and haven't even finished taking this thing completely apart yet. So I'm starting to clean the case up and take the other two Pistons out of it and try to make use of some of my time here and keep cleaning. but I had a question about these Springs they don't seem to take up the complete space to pin those rollers and I'm not sure if there wore out or supposed to be that way ?
20170502_143853-1.jpg
 
The one you picture looks about right, but I always replace those.They have a tendency to wear out along one or two of the creases by rubbing on the inner race. They look good, But if you go to stretch them out a bit, they may not survive. When you go to install the new ones, there are 4 ways to put them in, and only the right way will keep the spring creases off the inner race.
 
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I hear you, but I kinda gave up on trying to describe my techniques. It's not worth the inevitable arguements that come along with putting it on a public forum. Suffice to say go slow, use a lot of lube, and think about things before you do them. The tool I use to rebuild the high gear clutch packs is cobbled together with my welder and uses threaded rod to preload the springs and allow the snap rings to go on or off. I use seal picks for the inner seals, and I've never cut or messed up one. I have had to walk away before I used the bfh on them so call that technique development.
 
10-4 LOL
moper said:
I hear you, but I kinda gave up on trying to describe my techniques. It's not worth the inevitable arguements that come along with putting it on a public forum. Suffice to say go slow, use a lot of lube, and think about things before you do them. The tool I use to rebuild the high gear clutch packs is cobbled together with my welder and uses threaded rod to preload the springs and allow the snap rings to go on or off. I use seal picks for the inner seals, and I've never cut or messed up one. I have had to walk away before I used the bfh on them so call that technique development.
Click to expand...
 
Rather than a manual VB, Transgo has a relatively inexpensive shift kit I've used before that eliminates the kick down linkage. I think (THINK...IIRC) the shift pattern stays the say but it will be a full manual shift deal.
 
I was looking at that...
yellow rose said:
Rather than a manual VB, Transgo has a relatively inexpensive shift kit I've used before that eliminates the kick down linkage. I think (THINK...IIRC) the shift pattern stays the say but it will be a full manual shift deal.
Click to expand...
 
Okay here's my next hick up....
Okay I'll shoot a picture of these sealing rings. The two on the top are the ones I took off the smaller one would be the very first sealing ring that goes on the input shaft the smaller one and the larger one is the next ring down from that. you can see on the right the rings match up well. Now the small Rings you can see I have two there that are the same size and diameter and blah blah blah but they're not the same locking style like the two on the right.
20170502_162330.jpg
 
If they are teflon vs iron you should still be fine. Personally I like the iron sealing rings more but teflon is pretty common and in some circles considered an upgrade.
 
It certainly doesn't seem as sprung as the other one?
moper said:
If they are teflon vs iron you should still be fine. Personally I like the iron sealing rings more but teflon is pretty common and in some circles considered an upgrade.
Click to expand...
 
Years ago I installed a Transgo on a904 I was hopping up. The kit was combo kit offering TF1,TFII, and TFIII capabilities, each one progressively harder shifting. The tricky thing was in the kit was a pair of little triangular plates that converted it from normal shifting into a full manual.
Well, I installed it as a full manual.
And not much time went by, and that plate got flipped back to semi-auto. The only difference between the TFII and III was this little plate as I recall. It must have been a governor block-off.
I loved being to hold it in any gear to any rpm, but I also loved to put in Drive and fugetaboudit.
 
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