Yes there's a light for the shift indicator. It goes in the round opening to the left of the shifter slide. Here's a pic I snagged from the bay...
Console shifter conversion
- Thread starter demon322
- Start date
-
Yes there's a light for the shift indicator. It goes in the round opening to the left of the shifter slide. Here's a pic I snagged from the bay...
1969VADart
Well-Known Member
One last thought, there are two versions of that bracket that mount on the side of the transmission (the one with the little o-ring hole). I discovered this when I was doing my conversion. I am not sure which one is the correct one for your car, but you will know if it is right once you drop that linkage down through the hole in the hump. And for reference, a 2 3/4" hole saw bit is the perfect size for drilling the hole in the side of the hump. Just something to think about as you are putting it together.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
Pics of light and indicator assembly
Thanks. This setup came from a 72 Demon so hopefully everything will be the same for my 71. Thanks for the tip on the hole saw bit. I was wondering about what size that was.
Thanks for the pictures of where the light goes on the indicator assembley. So does that just take a push in socket with a bulb? If so do I just wire the socket to come on with the headlights?
Also, can the indicator lens be replaced by itself or do you have to replace the whole unit?
Also, can the indicator lens be replaced by itself or do you have to replace the whole unit?
d55dave
Well-Known Member
That is pretty rough.... if it were me and on a budget (like most things I do LOL) I would sand and fill the chrome and then have it painted or powder coated. There are some nice powder coats..... and then the vinyl overlay.
Darticon
Well-Known Member
Is the pitting and peeling mostly in the flat areas? It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like the vertical surfaces aren't too bad and are reflecting the pitting on the flat.
If it were me, I'd take some wadded up tin-foil with some water and see how well the chrome that is there polishes up. Then use some masking tape and mask off all the vertical surfaces and sand the flat areas out as good as possible that would be covered by the vinyl inlay. As in the red sections of your photo:
If you don't think any of the chrome is salvageable and want to powder-coat, then things are more difficult. You have to sand everything out really well and then everywhere there is pitting you have to drill out as much of the oxidizing metal as you can before using a filler. Otherwise it will just continue to "rust", pit, and bubble, under whatever you decide to fill and coat with.
Powder coating is a relatively high-heat process so you need to use a filler that is also high heat. Regular bondo and epoxy will out-gas as it is being heated so you have to use stuff like Alvin's Hi-Temp Lab Metal or the coating will come out looking worse than it does now. I've heard people say they've used JB-Weld if the pitting isn't too deep and you can powder coat over it but have never tried it myself. If that is the case, it is cheap and sands smooth great!
Sorry for the wall of text...
If I was made of money I would just buy this - Automatic Console Plate Kit - but holy-crap that's expensive!
If it were me, I'd take some wadded up tin-foil with some water and see how well the chrome that is there polishes up. Then use some masking tape and mask off all the vertical surfaces and sand the flat areas out as good as possible that would be covered by the vinyl inlay. As in the red sections of your photo:
If you don't think any of the chrome is salvageable and want to powder-coat, then things are more difficult. You have to sand everything out really well and then everywhere there is pitting you have to drill out as much of the oxidizing metal as you can before using a filler. Otherwise it will just continue to "rust", pit, and bubble, under whatever you decide to fill and coat with.
Powder coating is a relatively high-heat process so you need to use a filler that is also high heat. Regular bondo and epoxy will out-gas as it is being heated so you have to use stuff like Alvin's Hi-Temp Lab Metal or the coating will come out looking worse than it does now. I've heard people say they've used JB-Weld if the pitting isn't too deep and you can powder coat over it but have never tried it myself. If that is the case, it is cheap and sands smooth great!
Sorry for the wall of text...
If I was made of money I would just buy this - Automatic Console Plate Kit - but holy-crap that's expensive!
belmateo
Well-Known Member
I have a top plate that is in better condition if you are interested
Thanks for the tips. How did you do that to my picture? Ha.
Unfortunately that is not a reflection. The pitting does make its way up the flat sides in a few places though a lot of that part of the chrome still shines and looks good.
After reading and thinking about what you shared, drilling and filling the pits sounds like more than I want to tackle with this piece. If I do use it I guess I'll just sand the flat surfaces as best I can, cover with vinyl and hope that the bad areas on the vertical areas do not show up too much.
I know what you mean about that new top plate set. That thing looks awesome but man is it pricey. What a weird number too. $606? Ha.
Man, that looks a ton better than mine!
I may be interested but I doubt I can afford it ha. Pm me a price if you'd like. Do you have the console door as well? Mine is the later smooth style and doesn't match this style top plate.
I don't see where it has been mentioned that you will need your tail shaft to have the two mounting bosses for the flat shifter plate. Here is a link showing what I'm talking about. Not all trans had them.
Moparts on the Web - Main Index
Moparts on the Web - Main Index
I didn't know that until the guy that sold me these parts mentioned it. Of course my trans does not have the mounting holes. I think it came out of a truck.
I do have a spare 727 that does have the mounting bosses. Is it as simple as swapping out the tailshaft housings?
Not that hard to swap out. There are a few steps you need to follow. I would get a manual.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
pm sent, I have to look for the console door and get back to you.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
found it
According to my classic industries catalog this should be a 57 bulb. Since my car didn't come with the console there is no wiring for this light. Can I just buy this pigtail and wire it to come on with the headlights? Does it ground to the housing? It looked to be plastic. Thanks.
The 4 little prongs are your ground.You can use 57 or 1895 bulbs.
d55dave
Well-Known Member
Wire it into the dash lights. Probably the radio light is the easiest one. You might even find an open connector under the dash near the radio, I believe there is a spare dash light connector there on some cars.
Thanks. I figured that is what the prongs were for but didn't know if it would still ground if the housing is plastic that it pushes into. Good to know on the 1895. I have a few of those around so glad to know they are interchangeable with the 57s.
Thanks for the tip. I think I did notice an extra connector back there when I installed my radio. If so I will use that for sure. If not good to know I can just wire it in with the dash lights.
The Metal tabs have to be ground to metal for the bulb to light.
belmateo
Well-Known Member
Hey demon322, I found this hidden along with some other parts. Do you need this or should I offer it up to someone else?
-
