big block burning plug wires

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IamKamIam

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did a quick search and came up with nothing so I figured I'd post something here...how can I stop my TTI headers from burning plug wires??? I am pulling my hair out trying to keep those @#$% headers from burning 2-3 plug wires...tried searching around for the smallest diameter plug wire, tried finding the shortest length plug, used fire retardant plug boots...all failed...I have a 440 in a 69 Dart with the big TTI headers which I had ceramic coated...anybody???
 
I used to run wire boots on the plugs ends of close wires and Moroso looms that kept the wires pulled as far as possible from the headers.
 
I used to run wire boots on the plugs ends of close wires and Moroso looms that kept the wires pulled as far as possible from the headers.
thanks, its just the ends where they are inserted onto the plug, and I even put ceramic boots over the burning ones to no avail...they still burned thru...I made the looms so they stay away from the headers....heres a pix I know its a poor one but it shows I have tried to keep the wires away from the headers as much as possible...they are only burning down where the plug wires connect to the plug


picturekurt6.JPG
 
Are your headers red at night? might be a bit to lean of fuel mixture causing headers to run hotter than normal.
 
I have tti's on my 440 in the Polara and it wasn't running right and I found only 1 burnt one, but they are mighty close on some cylinders.

Taylor wires worked for me,
A friend recommended Taylor wires.
 
Yup, you would think they would arc to ground but they don't. Electricity will take the path of least resistance.
 
Some one(Taylor maybe???) Makes ceramic plug end plug wires. I used use all 90° ends. Taylor also makes a stamped steel heat shield that is essentially a tube.
 
Sorry you are having these issues, like another member posted maybe you are running lean, I am using tti's, 2 inch primaries ceramic coated and have NEVER had an issue in my 76 Duster.
 
The way you have them routed has a lot to do with it...been through this a hundred times.
Cylinders 2,4 and 6 should be routed UNDER the headers.
#6 is the only one that will give you an issue because it will want to rest on the header tube. Use a longer wire than you need to, and loop it toward the back of the engine twisted so tension keeps it curled toward the block.
#8 runs along the top of the valve cover and joins the plug from behind.
On the other side, #1 and 3 go under the front header tube.
#5 and 7 run along the back of the valve cover, and come from behind. No issue with #7, but #5 will have to be routed so it hits the engine from a 90 degree angle..or straight on.
It'll take some futzing around to get everything settled just right, but you'll never burn another one
 
I did almost identical routing on the low-deck stroker in my '72 Dart with Hedman 78030 (B-body) headers. I used Accel 90 degree ceramic boot wires with one exception. With those Hedmans, there was no way to make a 90 deg boot work on #5. So I bought a single Accel wire with a straight ceramic boot, and ran it underneath along with #1 and #3. Cooler below the header tubes than above, but it could have been run along the valve cover too.
 
had my 383 burning the end boots , richen it still cooked them , went with ceramic ends on the wires , no more burnt boots here . my headers dumped the heat off with the cam feeding it on the overlap cycle , over 900 degs . my factory manifolds were better on the heat pulse , still ran 580-650 degs .

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this a 69 Dart...the 76 Duster is slightly different and I have no lean condition, if anything I am running rich
Sorry you are having these issues, like another member posted maybe you are running lean, I am using tti's, 2 inch primaries ceramic coated and have NEVER had an issue in my 76 Duster.

NICE FIND,Roy.... I
interesting Roy but the widest part of these Rajah plug ends wont burn also??? they look awful wide to me, so wide they would touch somewhere on the header and I would be back go square 1... so these just install in the end of the plug and the plug wire then onto them...I also saw the taylor wires and talked with them, they told me that if their ceramic wires touch a header ANYWHERE I would be back to where I am now...
 
oh and btw I've been out of it so long I don't know the #'s of the cylinders but the ones that are primarily burning are the back cylinders next to the firewall on both sides the engine and maybe the one of the wires just before them towards the front of the engine
 
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