68 barracuda 383s "Driver Paint Resto"

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Can anyone recommend a epoxy for me to use? ( I know JDmopar already suggest PPG DP90LF ) keep in mind I am kinda on a tight budget, I am not looking for a trailer queen (it's going to be a driver), and the top coat will be GG1. Thanks
 
Darren said:
Can anyone recommend a epoxy for me to use? ( I know JDmopar already suggest PPG DP90LF ) keep in mind I am kinda on a tight budget, I am not looking for a trailer queen (it's going to be a driver), and the top coat will be GG1. Thanks
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I would do as JDmopar suggested, stay with the PPG Epoxy. If you can, stick with PPG line products from start to finish
 
Thanks Tim. . Seeing I am only using the epoxy on the exterior of car ( not in jams, inside of doors, underside of hood, trunk or engine bay) I wounder if 2 quarts would be enough, or depending on price maybe I should just pick up a gallon? Thanks
 
Go to SPI's website, and see if you can get their epoxy shipped to you at a reasonable price. They sell quarts, but 2 quarts might be pushing it. I believe I'd get a gallon. You can thin it, and use it for a sealer too. I liked SPI epoxy better than the PPG stuff.
Southern Polyuerthanes, Inc.
 
Thanks JD.. I emailed SPI to ask about shipping. For a gallon with activator it's roughly going to be 250$ Canadian + taxes and shipping. .. so I probably will be going with PPG .. but I will wait for a email reply from them.. thanks
 
Picked this stud welder up for the resto. The guy I got it from said he only used it once.. the car is clean but has quite a few dents.

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all of us DIU types appreciate your guts and grit! spend the time to make it as good as YOU want it. you are like me, I want driver paint job because I will drive it and therefore it will get some scares!!
a final lite spray with a guide coat will tell you how good it will turn out.
get a good respirator and have GOOD ventilation!
 
Just did some research and there is a SPI distributor in Canada ( 5 hrs away from me) I can get the SPI epoxy (gallon) and the activator for 385$ plus shipping. .
 
More supplies came in today.. might also order a long block also..

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Thanks barbee6043.. I hope am not getting to much over my head.. my next purchase will be a good respiratory. I have a few older 3m respirators but I think a new one is in order.. thanks
barbee6043 said:
all of us DIU types appreciate your guts and grit! spend the time to make it as good as YOU want it. you are like me, I want driver paint job because I will drive it and therefore it will get some scares!!
a final lite spray with a guide coat will tell you how good it will turn out.
get a good respirator and have GOOD ventilation!
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Got a little more stripping done tonight.
I am hoping to have it all stripped by the end of this weekend..

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Wow! $385 + shipping is pretty steep! It's $93 a gallon from SPI + shipping. Same for the gallon of activator, so that would be $186 + shipping. Check with a PPG place local to you and see what the price is for the same thing in DP90LF. Oh, and that DP90LF number is for black primer.....and I am pretty sure gray will be a different number that is close. PPG epoxy is good stuff, and I just liked the SPI epoxy a little better. I will use PPG epoxy again if needed. I'm just a DIY guy who is always learning too. :)
 
Ok sounds good JD.. what color of epoxy is recommended? I heard somewhere I should have a contrast color from epoxy and my high build primer to help know if I burn through when sanding. Thanks. .
 
Darren said:
Thanks barbee6043.. I hope am not getting to much over my head.. my next purchase will be a good respiratory. I have a few older 3m respirators but I think a new one is in order.. thanks
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3M and others make desposible respirators that are good for certain number of hours, if kept in th e sealed bag. like $20-25 usa.. I have used and local body guys use them.
YOU CAN do this. like said, get it right before you apply top coats. if you FEL ( or see) any imperfetions, all will shown after the finish coat, just keep at it till it is as good as YOU want it.
 
Using different colors is a good idea. If you're going back with the factory green, it may be best to use a dark epoxy, and then light gray 2K primer. You can also buy some stuff called guide coat, at the auto paint store. I don't know if that's a brand name, but it comes in spray cans. Most people spray dots or lines on the car between rounds of blocking, to see where low spots or high spots are. Adding to what Barbee said....you can usually feel more than you can see. When you're finished blocking an area, and your hands are dusty....use your non dominate hand to rub across the body. (If you're right handed, use your left hand) You will be able to feel dents that you can't see. You're clicking along well with the stripping. That's a messy job, no matter how you go about it!
 
Thanks for the advice barbee6043 and JDmopar it's a big help...
 
Got a little more work done tonight. I was thinking of just scuffing the hood and decklid because there we in good condition, but seeing I stripped the decklid tonight I might as well do the hood too.

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Got a little more stripping done, only have passenger fender, door and quarter left.. then time to epoxy. I popped into my local PPG dealer for tge DP90LV, turns out only way I can get it is to special order it (2 gallon minimum order )... he suggested another epoxy that he said local guys are using. CRE 921. Anyone ever use it? Thanks

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Sweet looking Cuda Dave.. I Dig the flag..
 
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