Car dropped 250 RPM and is now stuttering

Well as to the idle, that cam sounds like about a 268*/110
If the cranking compression is not at least 160 then it will want more idle timing than 12, and the 32* at 2200 IMO is too much, especially with iron heads.
So taking the picture as a whole, 650/700 is gonna be hard , unless this is 650/700 in gear.Hard as in, somewhat unstable.The 268 has only 52* of overlap, but it is enough to play havoc in the intake at low rpm.
Finally cruising in second gear at 2200 with 51* of timing, in my experience will cause missfires. But cruising with only 32*@2200 in second, is not enough either. But if you can make it work than you are a pretty sharp tuner.

Now on the off chance that you are in fact having other issues, I will give you my opinion, and you can kick it to the curb if you like.
Try 14/16* of idle timing and limit the all-in to 34*@3600 for iron heads, and 32*@3200 for aluminum. Then make sure the T-port is synced up, and the mixture screws are in the middle of their adjustment range which is about 3/4 turn for Holley types and 1.75 for most others. Set the idle speed with Idle-Air-Bypass, and a bit of timing either way from the 14/16 base. With closed chamber heads and tight Q, and under 160psi, you may be able to run cheap gas with this tune.
You may experience a slight torque loss from 2200 to 3200 with this tune, but it is safe. I got that torque back with a one-long-loop advance spring, from a 318 dizzy . I reset the rate of advance until I got 28* at 2800 on the light spring, and then let the long-looper take it to 32*@3400(aluminum heads). In this way the torque came back, the cruise got cleaned up, and the power timing was fine, and I am able to run 87E10 under all conditions.
The increased timing at idle and the T-port sync, allows an idle down to 550, but I don't run it there; I kindof like to see some oil-pressure on the gauge lol.

Now if your cam is bigger than a 268*, then the same principles still apply,a synced up Transfer port, more idle timing, and power timing limited to what the engine wants when she wants it; and not some number you have read others may be using. Don't force-feed her timing, thinking more is better. It's only better until it detonates, then it is suddenly waaaay worse. And you may not always hear detonation. It is better to be 3 degrees short of optimum than just 1 degree too much. Your butt dyno will not feel the difference of 3 degrees too little power-timing.