68 barracuda 383s "Driver Paint Resto"

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Thanks Dave.. just a shot in the dark but did you sell a black 67 barracuda vert to a guy named Glen?
 
Thanks Steve.. got pretty much the rest of the stripping done.. just have the wheelwell lips and a few odds and ends. Luckily the wife let me spend some tole in garage this weekend.. in all I have 13 hours in the stripping so far.. I am still looking for a epoxy tho..

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Cool..it's a small world .. I meet Glen and his wife at a local car show last year, I didn't talk to them too long but they sure had good things to say about you, I recall them saying how "attention to detail " guy you are, and you were really concerned about the cuda going to a good home..
Also I must say that cuda looked killer great job Dave...
 
Cool..it's a small world .. I meet Glen and his wife at a local car show last year, I didn't talk to them too long but they sure had good things to say about you, I recall them saying how "attention to detail " guy you are, and you were really concerned about the cuda going to a good home..
Also I must say that cuda looked killer great job Dave...
I see them at Moparfest every year, they are really good people, they drive and enjoy their Cuda
like it should be enjoyed.
 
Cool..it's a small world .. I meet Glen and his wife at a local car show last year, I didn't talk to them too long but they sure had good things to say about you, I recall them saying how "attention to detail " guy you are, and you were really concerned about the cuda going to a good home..
Also I must say that cuda looked killer great job Dave...
The credit should go to another member, Kevin, but I did do some of the reassembly.
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Nice.. there is just something about a black car that is clean and straight.. What's the story on the Duster?
 
I looked up the CRE Epoxy primer. It's a PPG product, so it should be decent. Ask for a tech sheet on it, and see if you can do filler over it...and how soon, and does it need to be sanded first. Use whatever metal cleaner is recommended on the tech sheet to clean the car before spraying it. It looks like it needs a 1.4 - 1.8 tip on the gun to spray it. You should be able to just scuff your jambs and use the epoxy over the top of it if you want. Good job on getting the car stripped so quickly!
 
Darren, I replied to the pm. If you don't get the reply, let me know. I'm in Myrtle Beach, at our place in a campground....and the wifi sux! LOL
 
Little update, pretty much have the car almost ready for epoxy, not to sure about how clean is good enough for the epoxy. I have evidence of surface rust on the underside of rockers and few other spots. You can see in pics but i do hope to get the spots a bit cleaner tho..I got ahold of a SPI dealer that (I hope) is shipping me the SPI epoxy, I am pretty sure SPI does not recommend any rust neutralizer under there epoxy just there (SPI) metal cleaner .. any suggestions
Thanks

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where there is pitting in the metal, and I have cleaned it best I can with DA and wire cup, I like Ospho, a phosphoric acid type cleaner, $30/ gal US found at Ace hardwares et.... but realize it is an acid and some epoxies can react with it I am told. I never had this problem though.
paint co. like DuPont ( I have used) have their metal cleaners that work well bt are very expensive. I suggest always try these "solutins" on a spot and see how it all works out.
 
yep we can never have too many tools in the toolbox when it comes to fighting rust in 40-50 yr old cars. I have to wonder how well those scuffing wheels mentioned by davescda holds up, I spend quite a few $ taking a complete car down to bare metal no matter what I use!
I like the Ospho where you have PITS in the metal, hard to get all the rust out with DA or any type abrasive, even a big wire cup!
 
The wheel in the top link Dave posted would work well to knock off the surface rust, as would a small handheld sand blaster with the hose stuck down into a bucket of sand. The sand will make a mell of a hess though! You're right, SPI recommends not using acid or etch primer under their epoxy. I would DA the entire car with 80 or 120, hand sand the places you can't get to with the DA, wipe it down a few times with the non solvent metal cleaner, and squirt the epoxy. SPI recommends a 1.4 tip to shoot the epoxy. You're inching ever closer! :)
 
Thanks guys for the tips.. I will be looking for the discs Dave suggested to try and clean the rockers more.. And I will be ordering the SPI black epoxy (1 gallon) along with SPI'S waterborne W&G remover. My plan is to concentrate on getting the exterior epoxyed, then work on jams underside of decklid and inside of doors later..
 
Sounds like a plan....and you can use the epoxy in the jambs too. Jambs are a pain in the butt to strip, and really only need to be roughed up enough to make the epoxy stick. I usually use 220 or 180.
 
Ok great.. now I just have to make time.. I hung some curtain rods up for the wife lastnight and installed a new bathroom faucet, so that should buy me some time this weekend lol..
Sounds like a plan....and you can use the epoxy in the jambs too. Jambs are a pain in the butt to strip, and really only need to be roughed up enough to make the epoxy stick. I usually use 220 or 180.
 
Ok great.. now I just have to make time.. I hung some curtain rods up for the wife lastnight and installed a new bathroom faucet, so that should buy me some time this weekend lol..

He he sounds familiar
 
Today I received the SPI epoxy primer, I am hoping to get the car in epoxy in the next 2 weeks..

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Glad to hear you are going to use a quality respirator and body suit. I read somewhere on here a thread that states some real hazards of iso cyonates and their ability to enter your body through your skin and eyes. Attached garages need to be careful of fumes entering main structure and also beware of the water heater or furnace clicking on during high "foggy" times during spraying. The chances are slim that you will experience any of these hazards since you are doing it "just this once" but being safe is kinda smart....not preaching..just passing on what I read on here.


You are cranking out serious time on that stripping! Great work!
 
Yes. I am trying to take every step to do this the safe and correct way. Also my garage is detached from house.. I was hoping to do the epoxy and priming at at local booth, but not sure if it's going to happen know. So my next is to figure out if I need to start on my (in garage temporary paint booth ) now so I can spray the epoxy. ..
Glad to hear you are going to use a quality respirator and body suit. I read somewhere on here a thread that states some real hazards of iso cyonates and their ability to enter your body through your skin and eyes. Attached garages need to be careful of fumes entering main structure and also beware of the water heater or furnace clicking on during high "foggy" times during spraying. The chances are slim that you will experience any of these hazards since you are doing it "just this once" but being safe is kinda smart....not preaching..just passing on what I read on here.


You are cranking out serious time on that stripping! Great work!
 
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