Stalling
Well it's idling at about 1100, the throttle blades are not shut but I can't tell about the transition slots, I didn't get to pull the carb today due to the rain, but I will tomorrow and I'll see where they are at
Fwiw, I called Jamie passion and he said... it's because the material of the clutch disk is so aggressive you have to rev it up to get it going and it's not going to be a smooth engagement.... im calling BS on that
>Was it 1100 in the video? What tach? Adjustable? What setting?
>I have Worked a CFII for one, or maybe two, summers;then I shelved the disc. I didn't find it troublesome on engagement with 3.55s or better.
I shelved it cuz it kept breaking stuff behind it. One by one, on separate occasions, everything back there broke.
So I bet you wanna know what I replaced it with....
A factory, right from the dealer 340 disc. No more breakage.
Well except for the disc. They don't last very long, but are way cheaper to replace. They usually spit out springs, or tear out the hub, or cast off the linings.
But I found a way around that too.
I spaced the pressure plate away from the flywheel about .080. That reduced the clamping at low-rpm, and I suppose as the flyweights kick in the clampload is still reduced. Whatever, once the 295s break loose, I have enough clamp for street useage, AND no more broken anything; Hooray.
FWIW
if you have a decent T-Port sync at 1100 and 38*s locked, and don't have the secondaries cracked or holes drilled in the primaries, or some form of idle-air-bypass; then you know something I don't know. So I wanna learn it.
If you drilled holes in the secondaries, or if you introduced dry air into the secondaries, or if you have hooked up the PCV to the back of the carb; then start by not doing that. The back 4 cylinders will run lean at idle,and the engine will not make power enough on the front four to take off smoothly until the back cylinders get some fuel.
IMO, ALL idle bypass air should come from the primary side, unless your carb has 4-corner idles.
Also, with the timing locked at 38, driving on the street will be kindof jumpy. The bigger the carb, the jumpier it will be. And the 4 gear with street-type gears will just amplify that tendency.
If this is in a street application,IMO it will never feel right with 38* initial, at low-rpm. Yes, it will go like a raped ape once the revs are up, but as you are discovering, race-timing is not street timing. Well it could be if you also have race-gears in the back; like 4.56s,lol.
