Need help with rotor phasing

Agreed. kickback is a seperate issue usually from too much initial/dcr. Phasing: drill a 1/2" hole in the top flat of the cap 2/3 of the way between the center terminal and the #1 terminal & shine your timing light straight down on the rotor while idleing & above idle (ported I am assuming) & see if the rotor is pointing close to the #1 cap terminal. vac adv will shift it CCW on a SB & a 11 deg can will shift it .270", a weak 9/32". to change it you can try the other roll pin hole in the reluctor if this aftermarket dist has one or redrill a new roll pin hole in the reluctor or widen the rotor mounting notch in the top rotor shaft to shift the rotor clocking over then JB weld the other side of the notch to restore its original width. On the kickback you might need to reduce your initial or wire in a momentary NC contact switch to the ign & push it then get it cranking then let go while cranking. First make sure the battery/cables/starter are up to snuff. wouldn't hurt to check turning torque when hot with a torque wrench/1&1/4 socket on the front crank pulley. first ground the coil wire & see if it now cranks over fine which will eliminate friction. on the RP you can get a "close" guesstimation by turning the crank till the reluctor is dead even with the magnet then make a mark on the side of the dist with your sharpie at the top metal rim directly plumb down from the rotor clocking location (confirm springs are retraced which they should be) then replace the cap & see if the mark is in line with or close to the center of the cap terminal outside "bulge" keeping in mind which way the can will shift it. The rotor blade width is .244" and the cap terminal width is .214" on an OE dist. holler how it goes