Rear brakes on 66 dart NOISE and stutter?? HELP

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gdizzle

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Ok 1966 dddart, 270, sedan slant 6 of course.
I redid all of the brakes about a year ago. it is the original 9in drums all around. This included replacing all cylinders, all pads, all hardware, and new rear Drums.
This issue is not always, but it is often. AFter I have been driving for a few minutes, if I apply brakes to come to a stop or slow down as I get to about 20mph and below I feel a stutter from the rear brakes, like pulsing the car back and forth and I hear rhythmic click that gets slower as the car slows down to a stop. If, as I am slowing and release the pedal, the clicks will stop, but if I press pedal again the clicks and rear car pulse starts again. (pedal is not pulsing, the back of the car is pulsing in time with the clicks).
Any idea what is happening here?
Here is a pic of one of the rear brakes I did back when I replaced everything.

rear brakes - 1.jpg
 
not sure, picture is fuzzy when you zoom in. The anchor looks funny, but I can't tell for sure. You might include the right side pic. The pulsing could be from an out of round drum.
 
Inspect the drums for surface finish. If some Chineosationite turned them at too fast feed, they will form spirals like a record. You should not be able to catch your fingernail "pulling out" from inside the drum
 
also make sure they are Clean, Clean, Clean. any machining oil, greasy finger prints ect. can cause they to be sticky.
 
What is the Anchor? Also this is a new drum. I suppose it is possible that it is bad, but that would be sorta rare, right? I should check if Oreilly has a warranty on the drums.
 
What is the Anchor? Also this is a new drum. I suppose it is possible that it is bad, but that would be sorta rare, right? I should check if Oreilly has a warranty on the drums.
it's the big stud like thing above the wheel cylinder. The return spring's attach to it.
 
You need to pull both drums off and look for a broken spring or something not right inside. Also sounds like your drums are out of round and need turning. Also make sure a axle seal or wheel cylinder isn't leaking. a lot can happen in a year.
 
Everything on the photo looks pretty good. I would agree with 67dart, check the drums closely. If they aren't fairly smooth, I would find someone that can turn them. Also make sure your emergency brake cable isn't siezed up. That can cause pulsation too.
 
I forgot to mention make sure the drums are actually true. This will require a brake lathe to check (or some sort of lathe or other centering device) You have to check the inside surface you cannot go by the outside. Also check runout on your axles. hell you might have a bent axle

One way to "get an idea" of drum surface runout with simple tools is..........Remove the drum, and carefully check stud to stud runout with a makeshift pointer, as well as runout on the center of the hub. You will want to clean, file, sandpaper, scrape etc

Then bolt the drum on "snug" with the inside facing OUT at you. Now you can use the axle itself as a makeshift lathe with a DIY pointer to check. This is not going to be that accurate, but it is better than nothing

Before you do that, though make sure there isn't something going on with the rear axle bearings themselves
 
update: I removed the rear pass side drum, upon inspection I noticed a strange wear issue on the edge, like a bump or divot or something not right. Ordered a new drum from Oreilly, then took mine to them for exchange (2 year warranty, and I had 1 month left). Reintalled and seems to have solved the issue. not stutter and no noise. As I tested it out, I notice that if I go in reverse, get a little speed then slam brakes, I skid (lock up) from the front wheels. is that normal. I also had to slam brakes driving around town as I almost T-Boned a **** head that tried to pull out in front of me at an intersection, he had a Stop sign, I had no stop sign, I skidded from the front as well. thanks for your help guys.
I had only put about 1500 miles on these brakes, BTW.
 
update: I removed the rear pass side drum, upon inspection I noticed a strange wear issue on the edge, like a bump or divot or something not right. Ordered a new drum from Oreilly, then took mine to them for exchange (2 year warranty, and I had 1 month left). Reintalled and seems to have solved the issue. not stutter and no noise. As I tested it out, I notice that if I go in reverse, get a little speed then slam brakes, I skid (lock up) from the front wheels. is that normal. I also had to slam brakes driving around town as I almost T-Boned a **** head that tried to pull out in front of me at an intersection, he had a Stop sign, I had no stop sign, I skidded from the front as well. thanks for your help guys.
I had only put about 1500 miles on these brakes, BTW.
If they are properly adjusted, the skidding should be reduced, and be more uniform left to right, and front to back
 
And............... of course, this new friction material stuff ABSOLUTELY ST*NKS.... there is NO "sugarcoating" it.....
I have N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ ...... the nicest, softest, best braking surface known to mankind (Our EPA had to stick their nose in.....)
If you want to enjoy nice smooth braking with no pulsation ---- you MUST use N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++........... Period......
 
And............... of course, this new friction material stuff ABSOLUTELY ST*NKS.... there is NO "sugarcoating" it.....
I have N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++ ...... the nicest, softest, best braking surface known to mankind (Our EPA had to stick their nose in.....)
If you want to enjoy nice smooth braking with no pulsation ---- you MUST use N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++........... Period......
is Asbestos against the law in California?
 
It is against the law to manufacture everywhere in the United States now for over 20 years -- but it is N O T illegal to transact
on product that was manufactured before those laws and statutes went into effect -- they are "grandfathered in" -- so it I S
perfectly legal for us to transact on it -- these are VERY VERY N.O.S. -- you can tell by the boxes themselves.....
 
You're not going to keep a hose glued to your nostril that goes to the inside of your brake drums...... the EPA had to get involved because they have to
justify having jobs..... the little bit of "brake dust" generated by braking (WITH nice smooth asbestos lining!!!!) is so miniscule, that it is ALMOST -- ZERO --.
It's one thing when an elementary school has it "leaking out of all the walls" in a run down situation with tons of little kiddies around -- okay, I get it --
ban that.....
But with 1941 Caddys with $ 500 Brake Drums and 1947 Lincolns with NO Brake Drums available -- these cars M U S T use asbestos shoes -- such that they
don't "RIP UP" Brake Drums -- in addition to --they want the best braking system known to mankind.....
While your brake drums are not in that category ---- you are still smart to want the best brake shoes in existence....
And -- your brake shoes cost 1/2 of '41 Caddys, '47 Lincolns, etc., etc.
 
Haven't tried it, but I would sure expect the fronts to skid first when going in reverse since they are designed to give 70% of the braking force, as needed when going forward. That would be way off in reverse, where they then should act as rears (need 30% of force). When going forward, the fronts should skid slightly before the rears skid. You don't want the rears to skid first or the rear-end can slip around. Test in a wet parking lot and keep applying until the rears also skid. Of course, design is for factory bias-ply tires, certain brake linings, etc. You can tweak the ratio w/ an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear circuit, which almost mandatory when installing after-market front disks or unequal F/R tires. Many pickups and vans must deal with greatly varying loads and have an "automatic prop valve" which has a lever finger to sense the sag in the rear to compensate for various loads.

Re asbestos, that is the State Mineral of CA (serpentine). The El Dorado Hills east of me (and SF East Bay) is filled with it, and I think many gravel roads have it, so imagine all that white dust churned up in the dry summers. A few years ago, the EPA did tests, sliding on a baseball field while wearing moon suits and air samplers. Also, reports of dogs autopsied w/ lungs full of asbestos. Then it all became quiet. Those are very expensive neighborhoods, so the lawyers probably pressured congressmen who pressured the EPA. Always "follow the money" and things make more sense.
 
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years ago, you used to have your shoes "arced" to the size of your drums. This generated a lot of asbestos dust for the machine operator, the shop, the cutomers even. But I don't think they do that anymore. I think if you use common sense, you'll be alright.
 
I used to ARC grind shoes to the drums, also you could buy over sized linings in the 70's. I worked at a shop that did All the Sheriff car repairs for Hillsborough county Fl. I used to do 6-8 brake jobs in a day on busy days. But it was easy since everything was 71-76 Dodge coronets. I've breathed more Asbestos dust than you can imagine. So far at 62 years of age I have no lung issues. The fastest I remember these Deputy's wearing brakes out is 3000 miles. The average was 12,000. Asbestos was a good brake material, but they didn't last very long.
 
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