Cast vs. Forged Crank?

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That is where I ended up in the same kind of search. Enough time and use has passed that it seems to be pretty solid info.
 
I had my cast MP crank internally balanced, I bet I didn't save $40 over a forged crank.

Go forged and don't look back.
 
My engine machinist is a Chevy guy thru and thru but a few years ago we went thru the same scenario and neither he, nor his right hand man, could remember seeing a broken OEM Mopar crank... cast or forged. And he has built a bunch of Mopar engines for drag racing.

Don't for get about Molnar cranks... Tom Molnar started K-1 and has years of experience in the biz. While he uses Chini-sium cores his machine work is precise... if I were to need a crank I guess I'd buy from him.

The crank in my 383 is a forged Mopar deal... USA made I would imagine (built in '93). It's got more heavy metal in it than Rosie O'Donnel's booty.
 
Racing? Forged
Street? Ether. With a street car "Cruiser" and low abuse, a cast crank would be OK. If your street ride is a street strip like machine, go forged.
 
The Ford 351C crankshafts were routinely spun over 9500 in stock eliminator and NASCAR racing and all they ever were was nodular iron.
 
Mine is a cast scat 95% dragstrip- slicks, 4 speed, dual quad tunnel ram always hammered on... what was the question again ?
 
that 200 shot you planning on better go forged crank an forged pistons if you want it to live!!! add slicks and a preped track an 30% drag and a stroker,..yup go forged or youll spend all that money again later wishing you did!!
 
A well built stroker should be almost too much for the street and plenty of fun on an occasional track day. I am thinking about trying a 200 shot some day and not concerned. I need more suspension to handle the stroker let alone a 200 shot though.
 
doogievlg said:
I am starting to put together a list of pieces for my stroker build. I have decided to go with either a Scat or Ohio Crank assembly but my question is which crank to go with. The goal is around 475 hp on the engine and possibly later down the road a 200 shot. The car will be about 70% street 30% track time so I will be revving this motor quite high a few times a year at least. I had planned to go with a forged crank just for the peace of mind and to know I would not have to go back into it again. Now I am starting to question if it is really necessary. What are your opinions?
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Good choice. I run their kit, solid roller, turning up to 7000 rpm...iron crank.
Whatever makes you feel warm n fuzzy inside.
 
The MP cast is a very good piece. I've seen them live at 600hp, plus 175 shot, raced a dozen times a year at multi-day events and up to 500hp expectations they are more than adequate. But - in terms of "the big picture"... If you're spending thousands now, why wouldn't you spend another $2-300 to get "the best"? I always internally balance, and never have a manufacturer do that work. Don't pay to have them do it, then again to "have it checked". Just pay your shop to do it. External balancing adds stress throughout the crank, not "just the ends". That's where the weight goes, but the whole thing gets stressed. That's how cast cranks get broken at lower hp levels, and in some contributes to why the power figures are never quite right.
So in short - get a forged crank. Do not get it balanced. Also a heads-up if you're sourcing parts yourself - you will need the narrow rod bearings.
 
moper said:
The MP cast is a very good piece. I've seen them live at 600hp, plus 175 shot, raced a dozen times a year at multi-day events and up to 500hp expectations they are more than adequate. But - in terms of "the big picture"... If you're spending thousands now, why wouldn't you spend another $2-300 to get "the best"? I always internally balance, and never have a manufacturer do that work. Don't pay to have them do it, then again to "have it checked". Just pay your shop to do it. External balancing adds stress throughout the crank, not "just the ends". That's where the weight goes, but the whole thing gets stressed. That's how cast cranks get broken at lower hp levels, and in some contributes to why the power figures are never quite right.
So in short - get a forged crank. Do not get it balanced. Also a heads-up if you're sourcing parts yourself - you will need the narrow rod bearings.
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I have never had someone else build an engine for me so I will be starting another thread about the proper procedure for parts and my involvement.
 
Moper is right about those Mopar cast cranks, They are really strong for what they are...and this the point. He is also right in that if you hit the pipe...you may as well build for it.
Had you not said anything about a 200 shot, the cast crank would have out lasted the rings...but I think it may torsion more than you want and that can lead to problems.ha
 
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doogievlg said:
I am starting to put together a list of pieces for my stroker build. I have decided to go with either a Scat or Ohio Crank assembly but my question is which crank to go with. The goal is around 475 hp on the engine and possibly later down the road a 200 shot. The car will be about 70% street 30% track time so I will be revving this motor quite high a few times a year at least. I had planned to go with a forged crank just for the peace of mind and to know I would not have to go back into it again. Now I am starting to question if it is really necessary. What are your opinions?
Click to expand...
doogievlg said:
I am starting to put together a list of pieces for my stroker build. I have decided to go with either a Scat or Ohio Crank assembly but my question is which crank to go with. The goal is around 475 hp on the engine and possibly later down the road a 200 shot. The car will be about 70% street 30% track time so I will be revving this motor quite high a few times a year at least. I had planned to go with a forged crank just for the peace of mind and to know I would not have to go back into it again. Now I am starting to question if it is really necessary. What are your opinions?
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Hello:
I am brand new to this site, but here goes! Have a 1969 340 Forged Crankshaft that has been in my home for quite awhile. The number on it is 253245. Any interest anyone?
 
@Dale Z

Welcome aboard Dale! There could be but the best place to find out if there is interest is to post it in the "For Sale" section under engine parts.

Pictures would be MOST helpful and the state of being it is in.
GLWS (Good Luck With Sale)
 
RustyRatRod said:
The Ford 351C crankshafts were routinely spun over 9500 in stock eliminator and NASCAR racing and all they ever were was nodular iron.
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I ran 351-c's in my dirt cars... never a crank problem but I kept the rev's under 7K...except the one night when one of my pit guys hot lapped the car and did it in first gear! Tossed a rod but the crank was OK... that old Ford sounded like an Indy car down the straights... we figured it was at about 9,500!
 
Krooser said:
I ran 351-c's in my dirt cars... never a crank problem but I kept the rev's under 7K...except the one night when one of my pit guys hot lapped the car and did it in first gear! Tossed a rod but the crank was OK... that old Ford sounded like an Indy car down the straights... we figured it was at about 9,500!
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Man, that is funny..... I bet you were fit to be tied LOL. Was that a modified body or stock body class?
 
rumblefish360 said:
@Dale Z

Welcome aboard Dale! There could be but the best place to find out if there is interest is to post it in the "For Sale" section under engine parts.

Pictures would be MOST helpful and the state of being it is in.
GLWS (Good Luck With Sale)
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Thank You. I will do as you recommend as soon as possible. I want to sell, make someone's day with this because two local mechanics said it is clean, excellent, and rings with no cracks. They wonder how I got it? The old warehouse and the guy passed away so no answers.
 
nm9stheham said:
Man, that is funny..... I bet you were fit to be tied LOL. Was that a modified body or stock body class?
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Sportsman class... '68 Torino. Hard to get mad at him... he helped us every week for two years. He had never been on the track before and just messed up.. he felt terrible. We just fixed the motor and moved on..
 
Krooser said:
Sportsman class... '68 Torino. Hard to get mad at him... he helped us every week for two years. He had never been on the track before and just messed up.. he felt terrible. We just fixed the motor and moved on..
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good help lot harder to find than rods.
 
A buddy used to run NHRA Stock Eliminator with a 71 Mustang and 351C 4sp. At the line on the two-step it was at 7000. Through the traps at 8200. Stock crank, stock rods, stock intake and Autolite carb. Held several class records in Div 1.
 
moper said:
A buddy used to run NHRA Stock Eliminator with a 71 Mustang and 351C 4sp. At the line on the two-step it was at 7000. Through the traps at 8200. Stock crank, stock rods, stock intake and Autolite carb. Held several class records in Div 1.
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The Cleveland was badass. No question about it. I have always said that had the R&D on them been 5 years earlier, they could have been a Hemi killer.
 
You guys are making me want to dust off/pull apart/rebuild my old 351C in the garage and do something with it....
 
nm9stheham said:
You guys are making me want to dust off/pull apart/rebuild my old 351C in the garage and do something with it....
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Better than sitting in collecting dust! Have at it, have fun.
 
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