hey I have a 70 dart. And I was wondering what all I could put underneath it and what years and models I could get rear ends out of. I would like to get a 8 3/4 but I'm not sure about cost. Are there any rear ends that are newer with dice brake that I could find in the junk yard?
Rear ends
- Thread starter Josh89
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Depends on your skill level.
An A body 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 obviously would be the easiest. Google mopar rear end widths there is a B body that's slightly wider.
Other then that your talking about narrowing or some custom rims to make it work.
Rear end cost can add up quick.
I have an 8 3/4 in my car with highway gears. I'd like to add a complete 3rd member with 3.91 and add large bolt pattern axles which will cost me about $2200 Canadian. Plus tires and rims.
Probably the best deal is a Ford 8.8 out of SUV can get cheap with posi, gears and disk brakes but have to shorten one axle though.
An A body 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 obviously would be the easiest. Google mopar rear end widths there is a B body that's slightly wider.
Other then that your talking about narrowing or some custom rims to make it work.
Rear end cost can add up quick.
I have an 8 3/4 in my car with highway gears. I'd like to add a complete 3rd member with 3.91 and add large bolt pattern axles which will cost me about $2200 Canadian. Plus tires and rims.
Probably the best deal is a Ford 8.8 out of SUV can get cheap with posi, gears and disk brakes but have to shorten one axle though.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Not everyone needs an 8 3/4 behind their slant six.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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And what application
I mean a streeter doesn't need discs back there. And a streeter, can't make a lot of power hook, so you may not need a HD rear. And a street teener automatic, with 8/1 compression is gentle,really gentle, on the rear;no matter what big cam you put in there.In fact the bigger the cam, in an 8/1 automatic engine, the easier she will be on that rear.So 268 here we come!
So, what engine, what tranny, what size tires, and what application?
I mean a streeter doesn't need discs back there. And a streeter, can't make a lot of power hook, so you may not need a HD rear. And a street teener automatic, with 8/1 compression is gentle,really gentle, on the rear;no matter what big cam you put in there.In fact the bigger the cam, in an 8/1 automatic engine, the easier she will be on that rear.So 268 here we come!
So, what engine, what tranny, what size tires, and what application?
Ya deffenitaly not putting a slant 6 in it. I have a 360 that's going to go in it. I'm not sure on what tranny I'm going to go with yet. Just know I want a manual probably a 5 speed. Also not sure on tire size all depends on what I can stuff up underneath there
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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5-speed manuals, to suffer 360 torque,are not cheap!
And you can't stuff much tire into a factory 70 Dart rear tub.
With a modest well-engineered 360, IMO,a 5-speed is not needed for street duty.
A good combination is the 3.09-1.91-1.39-1.00 box and 3.55s,for city work or same box and 3.23s for regular hiway use.
The 3.55s will get you about 65=5500 in second gear.
Then just build an engine to make peak power at about 300 under that rpm, and you will have a killer combo.
But to be quick, you are gonna need a traction aider, cuz in that Swinger with 255s, the tires will not hook.
Or you can build the bottom end power slightly soft.
IMO, it is near madness to build a near 500hp fire-breathing engine, that just smokes the tires all the way to 65 mph. Unless of course that is what you built it for,lol. But an engine like that costs money. It costs you in the build, the maintenance, parts attrition, and of coarse at the gas-pumps.
IMO, it is better to build the engine to a power level that the tires,the chassis, and your pocket book, can handle.
Not buying tires at the start of every season is nice.Driving a week on the same tankful is nice. Not having to re-set your valve lash, at the end of the summer is nice. Remembering in spring, halfway thru the resetting, that you already did this last fall;is not nice. Not worrying about blowing up that monster motor,is nice. Having the powertrain survive,year after year, is nice. Accumulating 12,000 miles a year, with nothing but normal maintenance, is really really nice.
Putting in a new clutch twice in one summer is not nice. Blowing up the tranny is not nice. Nor is twisting off a driveshaft, or dropping teeth off the ring gear. Nor spinning the pumpkin around the axle tubes.
Getting sideways on the 1-2 shift, mounting the boulevard facing backwards, watching traffic go by, is embarrassing. Worse is getting back down and realizing one of your rear tires is no longer round, and there is no air in it.
Slamming into a corner to fast, and sliding across three lanes, mounting the curb, and blowing two tires, is what can happen with too much power and/or too little tire.
Whatever you do, do not install an 11,000 rpm MonsterTach with 3 lites hanging off the side to tell you when to shift, when it's over-revved , and when to wipe your azz. That is soooooo tuner-ridiculous.IMO.
So, what is AJ running on about now?
Common sense is what.
If you got the bucks do whatever you please, but put some decent tires under the most evil handling factory stock A-body, Chrysler ever built.Put three or even four thousand into the suspension,steering,brakes,and tires, before you ever slide the engine in. Your life may depend on it. I mean the car is now 47 years old, and it was a terrible handling car on the day it was born.
If you're not made of money,try and use some common sense. That chassis couldn't handle the powerhouse 340 of it's day.
Thank goodness the Swinger 340 came with disc brakes; they saved my 17 year old azz so many times. And a few times not.
One thing I learned was that all the brakes in the world are useless if the car is not on the ground, or if it is sliding sideways. A second thing I learned is that PolyGlass tires are like ball bearings when going sideways. And not much better when oriented properly.
And you can't stuff much tire into a factory 70 Dart rear tub.
With a modest well-engineered 360, IMO,a 5-speed is not needed for street duty.
A good combination is the 3.09-1.91-1.39-1.00 box and 3.55s,for city work or same box and 3.23s for regular hiway use.
The 3.55s will get you about 65=5500 in second gear.
Then just build an engine to make peak power at about 300 under that rpm, and you will have a killer combo.
But to be quick, you are gonna need a traction aider, cuz in that Swinger with 255s, the tires will not hook.
Or you can build the bottom end power slightly soft.
IMO, it is near madness to build a near 500hp fire-breathing engine, that just smokes the tires all the way to 65 mph. Unless of course that is what you built it for,lol. But an engine like that costs money. It costs you in the build, the maintenance, parts attrition, and of coarse at the gas-pumps.
IMO, it is better to build the engine to a power level that the tires,the chassis, and your pocket book, can handle.
Not buying tires at the start of every season is nice.Driving a week on the same tankful is nice. Not having to re-set your valve lash, at the end of the summer is nice. Remembering in spring, halfway thru the resetting, that you already did this last fall;is not nice. Not worrying about blowing up that monster motor,is nice. Having the powertrain survive,year after year, is nice. Accumulating 12,000 miles a year, with nothing but normal maintenance, is really really nice.
Putting in a new clutch twice in one summer is not nice. Blowing up the tranny is not nice. Nor is twisting off a driveshaft, or dropping teeth off the ring gear. Nor spinning the pumpkin around the axle tubes.
Getting sideways on the 1-2 shift, mounting the boulevard facing backwards, watching traffic go by, is embarrassing. Worse is getting back down and realizing one of your rear tires is no longer round, and there is no air in it.
Slamming into a corner to fast, and sliding across three lanes, mounting the curb, and blowing two tires, is what can happen with too much power and/or too little tire.
Whatever you do, do not install an 11,000 rpm MonsterTach with 3 lites hanging off the side to tell you when to shift, when it's over-revved , and when to wipe your azz. That is soooooo tuner-ridiculous.IMO.
So, what is AJ running on about now?
Common sense is what.
If you got the bucks do whatever you please, but put some decent tires under the most evil handling factory stock A-body, Chrysler ever built.Put three or even four thousand into the suspension,steering,brakes,and tires, before you ever slide the engine in. Your life may depend on it. I mean the car is now 47 years old, and it was a terrible handling car on the day it was born.
If you're not made of money,try and use some common sense. That chassis couldn't handle the powerhouse 340 of it's day.
Thank goodness the Swinger 340 came with disc brakes; they saved my 17 year old azz so many times. And a few times not.
One thing I learned was that all the brakes in the world are useless if the car is not on the ground, or if it is sliding sideways. A second thing I learned is that PolyGlass tires are like ball bearings when going sideways. And not much better when oriented properly.
Last edited:
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
If I had to throw one out there without any information in regards to the OP is doing with the car (lol) it would be to locate a 8 1/4. LBP, will bolt right in, and are a good all around choice. I beat the brakes off mine back in the day and never broke it. I probably never saw anything less than a 1.70 60ft. so it stayed in the safe zone.
Past that it boils down to needs, wants, and your skills along with your wallet....
JW
Past that it boils down to needs, wants, and your skills along with your wallet....
JW
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I have two 8 1/4 axles here out of A bodies, I think they are both BBP. I have one out of a Dakota needs some work-----owner broke the spider cross shaft into 3 pieces
Shipping these would be a killer I don't know if the later than 76 ones would be wider or not.
There is not much, other than what was built for these, correct width. I have a Versailles 9" under mine, but they are expensive, hard to find, and the disc parts are rare. Some Mustangs are same width, but of course everybody wants them, too.
I think some guys were taking a Jeep rear, getting another short side axle, and having the long side narrowed to fit the short side axle. I can imagine "all those" Jeeps around the junkyard guy scratching his head, WHY THOSE GUYS want that short axle all time?
Shipping these would be a killer I don't know if the later than 76 ones would be wider or not.
There is not much, other than what was built for these, correct width. I have a Versailles 9" under mine, but they are expensive, hard to find, and the disc parts are rare. Some Mustangs are same width, but of course everybody wants them, too.
I think some guys were taking a Jeep rear, getting another short side axle, and having the long side narrowed to fit the short side axle. I can imagine "all those" Jeeps around the junkyard guy scratching his head, WHY THOSE GUYS want that short axle all time?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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to Slowpar
Yeah I hear that.
At one time I desperately wanted a Winters QC, to go with my A833. But I just couldn't justify the expense,for what amounted to a one gear advantage.
I thought, Man, Mopes need a 5 speed so bad.
Yeah I hear that.
At one time I desperately wanted a Winters QC, to go with my A833. But I just couldn't justify the expense,for what amounted to a one gear advantage.
I thought, Man, Mopes need a 5 speed so bad.
What bolt pattern do you want to end up with? Big go with an 8 1/4, small go with the 8 3/4. No special parts to add to the cost.
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
It's up to you.... If you want a bolt in deal, you have the 2 rears listed I would look for. Past that anything can be made to fit and it all boils down to your fab skills and interest in your project.
JW
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
Good numbers in below chart
Click here: Rear Axle 8.75" - MoparWiki
I be darned it got where i wanted it.
Besides the 8.8 Ford there are a couple other Ford pieces that will fit, a couple of them are close to drop ins as far as the spring perches go. Maverick/Comet, 57-59 9" out of the Ranchero or wagon (right width also). 65-66 Mustang, 74-78 Mustang II (rotten 4 bolt wheels). I am going with a 69 Mustang 9", little bit wider than an A Body by 1 1/2" (about the same as the narrow B Body 8 3/4), spring perches can be filled and redrilled to the propper spacing. A Body 8 3/4 are pretty rare in this neighborhood, and when you find them, a month's salary to procure them. Good hunting!
Click here: Rear Axle 8.75" - MoparWiki
I be darned it got where i wanted it.
Besides the 8.8 Ford there are a couple other Ford pieces that will fit, a couple of them are close to drop ins as far as the spring perches go. Maverick/Comet, 57-59 9" out of the Ranchero or wagon (right width also). 65-66 Mustang, 74-78 Mustang II (rotten 4 bolt wheels). I am going with a 69 Mustang 9", little bit wider than an A Body by 1 1/2" (about the same as the narrow B Body 8 3/4), spring perches can be filled and redrilled to the propper spacing. A Body 8 3/4 are pretty rare in this neighborhood, and when you find them, a month's salary to procure them. Good hunting!
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
FYI westerners or easterners ... 3 new listings on that Craig's place for A body 8 3/4s ... 2 in San Jose ... 1 in Hemet
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