FiTech EFI system

-
Update: Went straight at it after work..
With the O2 sensor unplugged, key on engine off n Displayed tach numbers on the handheld, plugged it back in, same test, back to random rpm tach numbers.
For my circumstance proof that the o@ sensor was interfering with the distributor pickup lines. ( who knows what affect that is having while operating.)

Applied Shielding to the O2 sensor wires from throttle body back to firewall, and now FINALLY no Tach numbers displayed with key on engine Off

Beside the shielding I already had on the Pickup module distributor line, I did not shield any other wires.

Short ride seems good, can't test it too much till after the weekend. I may just have a handle on this.

More to follow after additional testing.
Did you have these problems before you you started using the fitech to control the timing? Just wondering.
 
Ok Still using stock electronic distributor on mine but I am thinking of going HEI but still not sure. I would like to try timing control but with the amount of cash I got in this now don`t know if I want to do more expariments.
 
Update: Went straight at it after work..
With the O2 sensor unplugged, key on engine off n Displayed tach numbers on the handheld, plugged it back in, same test, back to random rpm tach numbers.
For my circumstance proof that the o@ sensor was interfering with the distributor pickup lines. ( who knows what affect that is having while operating.)

Applied Shielding to the O2 sensor wires from throttle body back to firewall, and now FINALLY no Tach numbers displayed with key on engine Off

Beside the shielding I already had on the Pickup module distributor line, I did not shield any other wires.

Short ride seems good, can't test it too much till after the weekend. I may just have a handle on this.

More to follow after additional testing.
Nice going Ken,
Looks like we're going to have shield our entire cars LOL. You would figure that Fitech would make modifications to the units they're shipping now to avoid these issues. Mine is running pretty darn good except for when I let up off of the gas while cruising. The rpm drops and then recovers. I think that it's because I have a manual valve body in my transmission. I think I have to adjust the decel setting. Let us know how it works out.
 
Oh by the way guys, my car no longer overheats. I used to panic every time I got stuck in traffic. I purposely let it run in the driveway for 20 minutes and drove it in traffic. The highest I saw was 174 degrees. I think that it's due to the fact I now have advance (other than mechanical). I had the vacuum advance disconnected and I was just running mechanical on my old distributor. Also the air/fuel ratio is now correct. I am a happy guy.
 
How do you turn down the fuel pump in the command center, mine runs so hot after a while you can not touch it and it will stall out. Than I have to wait for it to cool down and runs fine again. I looked at fitech and found some instuctions but my hand held is of course different than the instructions. I have uploaded the pfd so I hope all can see it, when I get to #6 on my hand held it says Tach or 2 Wire coil. Tryed to call fitech, was on hold for 1/2 hour and can no longer afford the long distance charges from Canada.
Thanks Mike
All,

I had the same overheating issue. I moved the FCC as far as possible fwd away from the Alt/Header and added a DEI Heat Wrap to shield the FCC. The wrap is secure to the upper diameter of the FCC and the rest of the canister is free to discharge heat as the wrap is not in contact with most of the sides and the bottom. Also had already set the PWM to 39.x (40). Since then no more pump shutdown. But I'm still working through a FCC Venting issue as the stock hookup on my 73 Dart does not work, it needs modded at the tank. I put a small catch can on mine and am freaked out about the volume of fuel discharge from short 10 minute drive through the subdivision with a 30 second blast down a side street. The small Prestone Power Steering bottle was 1/3 full with raw gas. Seems more like a return line than a vent! Just like the Chevelle guys has been ranting about.

FYI,
Marion

FCC Wrap.JPG
 
Yes that's correct. I t'd into the ported vac lie to the FiTech reg on the throttle body.

Marion


So ported vacuum? If FiTech states it, where did you find this information? Previously they stated these ports were only used for power adder applications.

This is all I could find under


61 Q&A's on “Instructions for Go EFI Systems”



"Kyle November 15, 2016 at 10:48 pm Reply
I just got your 30004 Power Adder kit and noticed a vacuum line from the FPR to the side of the unit. I’m not planning on boost or spray right away, should it be open to atmosphere or leave it connected how it is?"

  1. fitech-icon-32x32.png

    Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro November 16, 2016 at 7:51 pm Reply
    This is an update we are doing now. Leave it hooked up.

Jim November 23, 2016 at 7:04 pm Reply
looking at the passenger side of the fitech, the chrome vacuum port . What is that for? should it be hooked up and where to?

  1. fitech-icon-32x32.png

    Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro November 23, 2016 at 11:40 pm Reply
    As an update we are now running this port (fuel pressure regulator) to manifold vacuum.

fitech-icon-32x32.png

Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro January 6, 2017 at 7:48 am Reply
I recommend the use of vacuum on the regulator as it lowers fuel pressure under a low load situation. This will help the EFI adapt to your engine better.
 
Last edited:
Here's the ebay thermal wrap sold by 3xjacks and made by JC performance.

It's listed as 1/2" x10'

It's about 3" wide has a foil backing over a fiberglass wover material and has velcro strips sewn on the entire length to roll/close it. It is about the size of a dime when the velcro is aligned properly, But I think you could adjust it a little either way if you're creative. I may even wrap my fuel line near the engine

thermal wrap 2.jpg
 
Well that is one of my complaints about FiTech, too many places to get tech info. I too was skeptical, but I did find an official post from them stating to have a line from the FCC port to vacuum. I tapped (T'd) it into the vac line to the reg on the side of the throttle body. The other port on the TB is now used by my vac advance. The engine vacuum will reduce the pressure at idle as an other means to reduce fuel pump deadheading at idle and overheating, also they have the pulse width volts to the pump reduced to 40% to reduce pump heat and cooking the fuel in the canister.

FYI,

Marion

So ported vacuum? If FiTech states it, where did you find this information? Previously they stated these ports were only used for power adder applications.

This is all I could find under


61 Q&A's on “Instructions for Go EFI Systems”



"Kyle November 15, 2016 at 10:48 pm Reply
I just got your 30004 Power Adder kit and noticed a vacuum line from the FPR to the side of the unit. I’m not planning on boost or spray right away, should it be open to atmosphere or leave it connected how it is?"

  1. View attachment 1715050399
    Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro November 16, 2016 at 7:51 pm Reply
    This is an update we are doing now. Leave it hooked up.

Jim November 23, 2016 at 7:04 pm Reply
looking at the passenger side of the fitech, the chrome vacuum port . What is that for? should it be hooked up and where to?

  1. View attachment 1715050400
    Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro November 23, 2016 at 11:40 pm Reply
    As an update we are now running this port (fuel pressure regulator) to manifold vacuum.

View attachment 1715050401
Bryce - FiTech Tech Pro January 6, 2017 at 7:48 am Reply
I recommend the use of vacuum on the regulator as it lowers fuel pressure under a low load situation. This will help the EFI adapt to your engine better.
 
Last edited:
Here's the ebay thermal wrap sold by 3xjacks and made by JC performance.

It's listed as 1/2" x10'

It's about 3" wide has a foil backing over a fiberglass wover material and has velcro strips sewn on the entire length to roll/close it. It is about the size of a dime when the velcro is aligned properly, But I think you could adjust it a little either way if you're creative. I may even wrap my fuel line near the engine

View attachment 1715050484
I have that on my starter wires and my PS low pressure lines to keep the heat down.

FYI,
Marion
 
I also bought a 90 degree fitting to replace the included 45 degree fitting allowing me to fit my 1-1/2" K&N drop base aircleaner. (I know the 90 degree fitting cleared a 1/2" drop base) I add these details to help the next guy, because the only way I could answer fitment and clearnace issues is trial and error.

90 degree fitting.png


90 degree fitting gap.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well that is one of my complaints about FiTech, too many places to get tech info. I too was skeptical, but I did find an official post from them stating to have a line from the FCC port to vacuum. I tapped (T'd) it into the vac line to the reg on the side of the throttle body. The other port on the TB is now used by my vac advance. The engine vacuum will reduce the pressure at idle as an other means to reduce fuel pump deadheading at idle and overheating, also they have the pulse width volts to the pump reduced to 40% to reduce pump heat and cooking the fuel in the canister.

FYI,

Marion


Maybe you missed my point previously you stated "ported" vacuum (above the throttle blades) what I found stated "manifold" vacuum
 
For those who may want to run the Command center.
I bought a 5/16th 90 degree elbow 1/8th NPT to replace the provided straight vent fitting
I also loosened the fuel pressure regulator valve and spun the nipple where I wanted it, both chanes made for a cleaner installation

Command center vac n vent.jpg


View attachment 1715051371
 
Last edited:
UCUDANT,

What did you use for a vent line?

Thanks,
Marion

Marion, the car I installed this in is my 72 Cuda and it has the 71 style ECS system. I tapped into the second (second shortest vent in the ECS) so that fuel in the lowest level of the seperator ouldn't settle into the vent return line. I think it works. I will then plump the line that runs to the engine bay from the ECS to the engine (it would normally go to the charcoal canisteron a 72) The diagram is for a 71 Cuda

NOTE: The command center vent WILL RETURN SOME FUEL to the tank. FiTech states the vent line back to the tank MUST be above fuel level. I think most folks tap into the filler neck, the logistics of doing this on the Cuda didn't allow this very practically.

Hows FiTechs vented.jpg


Injection return lines.jpg


fuel lines.jpg


Injection vent line.jpg
 
This video has some tuning tips



As I made very slight throttle adjustments (clockwise/in to get the IAC number to come dowm) to get the IAC reading between 3-10 I had to shut it off each time, wait for power down and then restart. Computer will adjust idle etc. and the IAC number will come down. I let it run until the IAC hit the lowest reading and came back up and stabilized. Then readjusted and repeated.

I'm tuning now
 
Well, with the change to timing control with the TSP Billet distributor, new software for my go efi 4 power adder, which allowed shutting off the o2 sensor pre heat and finding a problem with the tach input line and changing it( it was grounding out causing sudden and random system shut downs), my system , with the FCC is running

......perfectly. Now to enjoy summer..

Ken
 
got my fitech up and running it does have what seems as a lean condition when I get off the throttle for a few seconds and the get back on it. this is with just a few miles on it. should I play with the decal fuel cut off or will it learn through this?
 
got my fitech up and running it does have what seems as a lean condition when I get off the throttle for a few seconds and the get back on it. this is with just a few miles on it. should I play with the decal fuel cut off or will it learn through this?
Not sure what causes that but mine does the same thing. I was going to adjust the decel FCU as well. I will let you know it that fixes it. Make sure you save your current tune before you change anything.
 
I would watch your map numbers at the time you get that lean issue when getting back on it.. You may be at the point where fuel is being shut off. DFCO cut fuel map
If you are, then try lowering the dfco number to slightly less than what the MAP numbers say. Bring the DFCO return map just above the number you set the DFCO Cut fuel map to.
There is also the DFCO return fuel setting to consider

Ken
 
-
Back
Top