Cracked Block

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Marcohotrod
Works for me!
What town are you guys in?
Going to miss the drags tomorrow
Prior commitment
 
It is fixable, as stated it's gonna cost. Welded or pinned.
 
Is it just me or does this block look very rusty? How are the bores? Rust there? If it needs to be sleeved, it could negatively impact the weld job. IMO.
 
Regardless of pulling things out of alignment, which is very possible, if you do not find the ends of the crack and address them with a hole as I outlined, it WILL continue to crack under the weld, no matter WHAT you do. Good luck with it.
 
OP, if you get this repaired, please take notes on how it is done and post some detailed before and after pix. If this works, it would be interesting and instructive.
 
This is a bad picture but this is the lock I mentioned earlier a friend of mine had that was repaired at UWP. Had a similar type crack due to freezing. Someone tried to do a bronze rod repair which did not work. I did not get a picture of the block post repair but when I looked at it you could not see where the repair was. Shop that did the work after the repair pressure tested it and all was good. Block was put together and runs great.

PICT0260.jpg.JPG
 
pink340swinger said:
Have it welded by a professional shop that specializes in cast iron repairs. Not a bit deal to do, just may cost a bit more than most want to spend. Since it's a rare numbers matching block/car, I would not hesitate to weld it.
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I watched a show called, "The Last Sting Ray" several years ago. It was about a guy who purchased the last 67 Corvette made. It was a little rough, but it was a 435 HP 4 speed matching numbers car that would be worth a FORTUNE when done. The block was cracked, and he found a place that specialized in welding and restoring blocks. It wasn't cheap, but you have to decide how badly you want the original block in your car. Mike at MRL might know someone.
 
Rocket said:
This is a bad picture but this is the lock I mentioned earlier a friend of mine had that was repaired at UWP. Had a similar type crack due to freezing. Someone tried to do a bronze rod repair which did not work. I did not get a picture of the block post repair but when I looked at it you could not see where the repair was. Shop that did the work after the repair pressure tested it and all was good. Block was put together and runs great.

View attachment 1715054106
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Did the weld in that picture leak?

I have done welding on some old blocks. One I remember was an old Oakland that was essentially unreplaceable. I did the welding in 2000 and he died in 2008. His kid still drives it. So it can be done. It's just a pain in the can.
 
yellow rose said:
Did the weld in that picture leak?

I have done welding on some old blocks. One I remember was an old Oakland that was essentially unreplaceable. I did the welding in 2000 and he died in 2008. His kid still drives it. So it can be done. It's just a pain in the can.
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There is a fix that`s called metal locking also. I didn`t drain the block, just the radiator, on one of my hemi`s one year, it froze on the outer block , underneath the heads, between the freeze plugs. I had seen metal locking done on some of moble oils pipeline engines that burned, that we were overhauling at the time. I did it to that hemi, had it line honed, and raced it for 14 yrs. The car is now being restored, and the block is fine. Altho I don`t think I`d try it in the lifter galley, might be worth a look . I really think I`d junk that 340 block tho.
 
famous bob said:
There is a fix that`s called metal locking also. I didn`t drain the block, just the radiator, on one of my hemi`s one year, it froze on the outer block , underneath the heads, between the freeze plugs. I had seen metal locking done on some of moble oils pipeline engines that burned, that we were overhauling at the time. I did it to that hemi, had it line honed, and raced it for 14 yrs. The car is now being restored, and the block is fine. Altho I don`t think I`d try it in the lifter galley, might be worth a look . I really think I`d junk that 340 block tho.
Click to expand...

Metal Stitching & Thread Repair Inserts. - Turlock , CA - LOCK-N-STITCH, Inc
Cast Iron & Crack Repair Videos- Turlock, CA - LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.

 
harrisonm said:
I watched a show called, "The Last Sting Ray" several years ago. It was about a guy who purchased the last 67 Corvette made. It was a little rough, but it was a 435 HP 4 speed matching numbers car that would be worth a FORTUNE when done. The block was cracked, and he found a place that specialized in welding and restoring blocks. It wasn't cheap, but you have to decide how badly you want the original block in your car. Mike at MRL might know someone.
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
famous bob said:
There is a fix that`s called metal locking also. I didn`t drain the block, just the radiator, on one of my hemi`s one year, it froze on the outer block , underneath the heads, between the freeze plugs. I had seen metal locking done on some of moble oils pipeline engines that burned, that we were overhauling at the time. I did it to that hemi, had it line honed, and raced it for 14 yrs. The car is now being restored, and the block is fine. Altho I don`t think I`d try it in the lifter galley, might be worth a look . I really think I`d junk that 340 block tho.
Click to expand...

I would if it wasn't the matching number engine to my 1 of 58 GTS!
 
At work today on a 24 hour shift.
I'll get one this week and post it.
Thank all of you for all of your input.
I really want to try to save the block.
Quick question, everyone says its expensive, roughly how much?
 
Veryfastdart said:
At work today on a 24 hour shift.
I'll get one this week and post it.
Thank all of you for all of your input.
I really want to try to save the block.
Quick question, everyone says its expensive, roughly how much?
Click to expand...


I depends. If I was going to weld it, I'd put torque plates on both sides and torque the main caps on it to TRY and help with distortion. I'm not sure about the two processes above because I haven't watched the video but I have used "stitching" to fix many cracks. You use a tapered cast iron pin and drill a hole and tap it. Then you screw the pin in until it breaks off. Then the next pin, and every one after that overlaps the prior pin by half. It's a great repair if you can get to the entire crack. And they way the parent metal looks in your picture it's been displaced quite a bit.

If I was welding it, I'd bid the job on time and materials and try and give you a high quote and then try and stay under it. Prep and post weld can run the cost up.

Don't forget if you weld it, you are going to have to machine every surface so that adds up too.
When you post a little better picture you'll get better guesses. Is there only one crack?
 
I can't see how the stitch pins could work in a crack with so much sideways displacement of one side of the crack.
 
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