Thermostat vs. No Thermostat ?

-
BadBee

BadBee

'69 Dart 440/6/4 speed
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
233
Reaction score
60
Location
Mass.
Hello All,
I'm running a little more than stock 440 in my '69 Dart, she is running HOT! . Years back I used to by pass my thermostat run it straight in my '69 Bee 440/6/4speed with it running semi hot on a hot day 190. What's the opinion on no thermostat as I garage it ALL WINTER up here in the NorthEast. A thanks to ALL IN ADVANCE!
Mitch
 
Last edited:
I put a 180 stat in my 408 Stroker added a 2100CFM SPAL electric fan with good results. The manual flex fan, non-shroud setup I had prior wasn't getting it done.
 
Last edited:
Seems like I recall being educated that your system need some back pressure to keep the coolant from forming vapor bubbles in the head' s coolant passages.
No T stat could be a (your?) problem if that is true.
 
BadBee said:
Hello All,
I'm running a little more than stock 440 in my '69 Dart, she is running HOT! There is no shroud . Years back I used to by pass my thermostat run it straight in my '69 Bee 440/6/4speed with it running semi hot on a hot day 190. What's the opinion on no thermostat as I garage it ALL WINTER up here in the NorthEast. A thanks to ALL IN ADVANCE!
Mitch
Click to expand...
Are you sure the gauge is correct? Shoot the temp of the intake and see if there is a major difference.
 
2 things..

You need a shroud.

You need a thermostat OR a restriction ring. You can buy a restriction ring from CSR etc or you can just gut a factory stat.
 
You can remove the center part of the stat and just use the outer ring as a restrictor plate
 
stat is almost mandatory to allow the motor to heat up quickly and regulate the flow through the radiator. No stat is long warm up and coolant passing through rad too quickly to cool. An open stat is a restrictor plate.
 
I ran a restrictor plate because I have a elec water pump and can run it after the motor is shut off to keep it from boiling and if the stat closes the water wont circulate.
 
brian6pac said:
I ran a restrictor plate because I have a elec water pump and can run it after the motor is shut off to keep it from boiling and if the stat closes the water wont circulate.
Click to expand...

Correctly done. You aren't supposed to run a stat with an electric pump. You run a restriction ring with an electric pump.
 
Last edited:
There's a new water pump and stat less than a year old. It's a mechanical sender so temp is accurate, So Rocco what's the best way to GUT the stat? Pull out the spring and use the rest? I'll get a shroud ,the current stat is a 180,
Thanks ALL for the input!!!
Mitch
 
Yes, just cut the center part out.

but I think you have a cooling system issue unrelated to the stat.

when does it get hot? around town or on the highway?
 
Yesterday it was over 90 up here so around town, water is circulating in radiator good and water pump is working as FLOW is good visually in radiator, it's a factory 26" era correct and CLEAN, motor only has 5K since complete rebuild
Thanks!!
 
Make sure it has the correct pulleys on it. Water pump should not be underdriven on a street car.
 
BadBee said:
Yesterday it was over 90 up here so around town, water is circulating in radiator good and water pump is working as FLOW is good visually in radiator, it's a factory 26" era correct and CLEAN, motor only has 5K since complete rebuild
Thanks!!
Click to expand...

If you are having an issue around town it's the shroud/fan setup. If getting a good fan ad a proper shroud doesn't cure it, it'd then look at the radiator. You sad you have a new pump so I wouldn't think that is an issue. The stat is open after 180 degrees so you should probably be running 185 or 190.

How hot is this engine running?
 
It's at 190-200 sometimes 210+ it boils over and comes out over flow so the Guage is accurate.
 
I'll try a 190 tomorrow and keep you posted, if no SUCESS it's a BE COOL RADIATOR unless there are other suggestions?
 
Ok I just went out and measured the fan it's a 17" 6 blade flex fan, yes there is a schroud I was thinking of my other car,26" factory radiator, 12-16 temp guard cap a SP 29 thermostat is a 180
 
Last edited:
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
Thanks for that link! I've been trying to cure a running hot issue for a few weeks now since I put in my 360. Factory gauge is reading normal, but my StewartWarner gauge, which is the same one as in the article, was always reading around 200* at cruise and 210* at idle.

Checked my upper rad hose with laser temp gun. About 178* at idle, lower hose was 146*, SW temp gauge was showing around 200*. Problem solved?
 
Ok Rocco,
I took center out of old stat used it as a restrictor, I let car idle for 20 mins, 180, I took car out for a half hour and romped on her a few times, temp stayed between 190-210 cooling as I drove but staying around there, I brought her back let it idle for 10mns stayed at 210, shut it off and started pissing out the over-flow! New Cap? All suggestions appreciated!!!
Mitch
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top