Houston.... we have a problem!

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yellow rose said:
Sometimes the line that comes in those kits falls right in the area of one length is barely too short and the next one is two feet too long.

I like making my own hose from -4 Teflon lined hose and just put my own ends on. Then the hose is the length.

Of course, if you are one of those guys who can reach into a basket of buttholes and pull out a rose, you'll get lucky and find a prefabbed kit the correct length. I never get that lucky. I reach in and get a handful poo.

BTW, I've seen way to many electric gauges that have a plus/minus accuracy that you'd be just as accurate with just a light.

And, I prefer the -4 hose size over the -3 stuff out there. The gauge is more sensitive with the bigger diameter hose.
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There is a house of hose right across from where i work so I'll measure it up and have one made, probably put a 90 degree fitting on the engine side.
 
dgibby said:
There is a house of hose right across from where i work so I'll measure it up and have one made, probably put a 90 degree fitting on the engine side.
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a ho house that sells fittins...

LOL!
 
Buy an accumulator and an idiot light and **** all that stupid Bullshit.

If your car can puke out eight quarts of oil in between fuel fill ups, you're some sort of two-barrel ecohippie communist with a broken right ankle.
 
You could have drove it home, just took the end off the gauge, screw it back on the block, and run the line into the valve pan cover gromment, or dipstick tube.
 
Riff Raff said:
Braided line is best no doubt. An old hot rodder trick is to coil up a couple turns with the copper line instead of a straight shot from the block to the guage. Do like 2/3 loops about an 1 1/2" diameter before you run it through the firewall.
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This is EXACTLY how you are supposed to do it. The loops are a stress relief on the copper line. Bend the line from the block connection to a point near to an engine bolt so you can put it through a clamp of some sort that is bolted down; that takes the stress off of the block connection where this broke. Then put loops in the run to the firewall.
 
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Electric guages are reliant on power.....sensetive to voltage fluctuations and in my experience are slow to react.

Wet line guages act instantly and are fool proof.

You have just as much chance of having the diaphragm in the electric sender rupture and emptying out your oil as you do having a properly installed wet line fail.
 
Some drag strips won't let you on the track with a nylon hose...... just say'n
 
d55dave said:
I have always worried about this....along with my spare ballast resistor and ignition box I carry the appropriate pipe plug just in case the oil line lets go, and a few select tools.

At least it didnt break inside the car....
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Also a vice grip; good for clamping off broken lines, (brake or oil!) So you can get home on your own
 
An 1/8" ball valve screwed into the block before the line might be a good idea "just in case"
 
I never knew the electrical oil sending units was looked down upon. My Auto Meter MTX gauges came with electrical sending uint... I paid big money for them too.:( :D
 
Just keep in mind ... any improperly supported or routed line of any type will fail, even braided.
 
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