spring relocation

-
mopardemon340

mopardemon340

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Messages
553
Reaction score
37
Location
WI
lets see some pictures of your spring relocation kits and exhaust. want to see the kind of clearance i will have for my tti 2.5 tailpipes. dont want them to get beat up from the spring travel while driving. measurements would be nice to see to.. thank you..
 
68 Dart 3" exhaust
Dart - 3 inch exhaust.JPG
 
Last edited:
Doesn't the kit relocate the springs under the frame ?
 
cawley said:
-- Doesn't the kit relocate the springs under the frame ? --
Click to expand...
-- This kit was, about a 3/4", offset. -- Both the front bracket, and the shackles are offset. -- The back spacing , on the wheels was modified. I don't remember the B S. -- I have , since, sold the car.
 
RPMagoo said:
-- This kit was, about a 3/4", offset. -- Both the front bracket, and the shackles are offset. -- The back spacing , on the wheels was modified. I don't remember the B S. -- I have , since, sold the car.
Click to expand...

How big of a tire were you able to stuff under there? About to do the same thing to my 70 Swinger. Didn't know if a 275 would fit and if the tubs need to be modified.
 
[QUOTE="70Roadkill, post: 1971713011, member: 50034" How big of a tire were you able to stuff under there? . --- and if the tubs need to be modified. -- [/QUOTE] -- Had 275/60-15" tires -- stock wheel wells -- 15" X 8" Mopar steelies (modified B S) -- no tubs, and didn't have to trim the inner fenders. -- Measure carefully, when deciding on B S.
 
im running 275/60/15. 5x4 sbp, 8 inch wide rim with 4.6 back spacing. i had to get a 3/4 inch adapter to give me clearance from the tire rubbing the springs.. but now i have an issue with the tire rubbing the fender lip. so with this i have 2 options. one options is a spring relocation, and two would be to roll the fender lip.. im choosing to roll the fender lip as its cheap and a spring relocations is 400$ from us car tool.. if the fender roll dont work then ill be doing the relocation.
 
someone told me once before that the clearance is different if you have a SBP or LBP. from what i understand with a LBP you wont have an issue with clearance.
 
With My adapters, the springs were moved in, toward the center. -- I had to drill a hole in the sub frame, for the, front, spring bolt head to be located, -- also, had to move the spring perches in, on the rear housing.
Dart - Moved Springs In.JPG
 
I don't have any pics of it - but I did the relocate kit (frame rail) to a Scamp a few years ago - if you want big tires w/o back halfing the car, it's THE way to go!
 
RPMagoo said:
[QUOTE="70Roadkill, post: 1971713011, member: 50034" How big of a tire were you able to stuff under there? . --- and if the tubs need to be modified. --
Click to expand...
-- Had 275/60-15" tires -- stock wheel wells -- 15" X 8" Mopar steelies (modified B S) -- no tubs, and didn't have to trim the inner fenders. -- Measure carefully, when deciding on B S.[/QUOTE]


Thanks for the info. I am going big bolt pattern as well. So I will measure 10x before ordering.
 
I thought you would all like to know what I found when doing a inboard kits. The rear in these A bodies are rarely straight from the factory. The main reason traction is always a issue. Did you ever take notice some of these cars were better in slippery conditions than others

Do not use! again Do not use! the hole in the frame or the original mount pad to locate your relocation boxes. Most of them are off by 3/8 to 1/2 inches side to side. An easy way to tell is get under the car and compare the spring mounting plate welded into the car with the hole directly in front of it in the underside of the frame. Or just check the spacing in your wheel well from side to side. You will see They are not in the same location on most. The only cars I see that are correct are usually Standard shift cars with torque boxes.

I just bought two never hit rust free bodies and both of the are off 1/2 inch . Passenger side forward. I will take pictures of them when I do the inboard kit. There is a process to square the car using plumb bobs and a level floor and a marker to do it correctly. One reason why "US Car Tool" inboard kit can never work on all cars the same way for every car unless you space one side back when bolting them on. But this is not the correct way for traction.

Their kit bolts to the existing pad to locate the box. The pads are never in the same spot on all cars.

The easy way to correct this is to move the side that is forward toward the rear with spacers before welding. But The correct way is to move the opposite side forward torward the front which is more work. But this way would create traction. Going rearward you lose traction.

In the old days we use to just re-drill the hole in the spring perches to put the rear where it need to be to go forward. Or shim the mount to go rearward. I will take pics of my new Duster while its being done for reference. Sorry for you guys that already have them in crooked.

My buddy has his car at a chassis shop getting done because I could not get it in my shop at this time because of my accident. I explained this to him . He went down to check his car. To Late!! They will be drilling the Perches. It is off 1/4" That is a lot. If you start spinning the tires on the big end it gets hard to save the car. Straight is not only safer its Faster.

29 x 14.5 on 12 inch rims with 2 1/4 tailpipe from a b-body ,Charger tips with the hangers shortened

dus1.jpg


spoiler pics 359.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oldmanmopar said:
I thought you would all like to know what I found when doing a inboard kits. The rear in these A bodies are rarely straight from the factory. The main reason traction is always a issue. Did you ever take notice some of these cars were better in slippery conditions than others

Do not use! again Do not use! the hole in the frame or the original mount pad to locate your relocation boxes. Most of them are off by 3/8 to 1/2 inches side to side. An easy way to tell is get under the car and compare the spring mounting plate welded into the car with the hole directly in front of it in the underside of the frame. Or just check the spacing in your wheel well from side to side. You will see They are not in the same location on most. The only cars I see that are correct are usually Standard shift cars with torque boxes.

I just bought two never hit rust free bodies and both of the are off 1/2 inch . Passenger side forward. I will take pictures of them when I do the inboard kit. There is a process to square the car using plumb bobs and a level floor and a marker to do it correctly. One reason why "US Car Tool" inboard kit can never work on all cars the same way for every car unless you space one side back when bolting them on. But this is not the correct way for traction.

Their kit bolts to the existing pad to locate the box. The pads are never in the same spot on all cars.

The easy way to correct this is to move the side that is forward toward the rear with spacers before welding. But The correct way is to move the opposite side forward torward the front which is more work. But this way would create traction. Going rearward you lose traction.

In the old days we use to just re-drill the hole in the spring perches to put the rear where it need to be to go forward. Or shim the mount to go rearward. I will take pics of my new Duster while its being done for reference. Sorry for you guys that already have them in crooked.

My buddy has his car at a chassis shop getting done because I could not get it in my shop at this time because of my accident. I explained this to him . He went down to check his car. To Late!! They will be drilling the Perches. It is off 1/4" That is a lot. If you start spinning the tires on the big end it gets hard to save the car. Straight is not only safer its Faster.

29 x 14.5 on 12 inch rims with 2 1/4 tailpipe from a b-body ,Charger tips with the hangers shortened

View attachment 1715058349

View attachment 1715058350
Click to expand...

I was planning on using the 3/4" kit with moving the spring perch and off set hangers not the 3" relocation. Just move the spring inboard a bit. I guess I'd need a pic to fully understand if that would also apply to what I was going to do.
 
I also Had that on my car . They use the same mounting pad in the front. You will need to space the forward one back with a spacer to straighten the rear.

When doing this to make it easier to put the hanger on the front without the spring. The holes on the side in the frame should be enlarged to slide the large bolt that holds the spring through the frame. If you try to put the mount with studs into the hole you will find the nut won't let you get close enough to the frame. To do this cut the welded nut off of the front hanger/mount. This nut will be in the way. Put the nut on the outside of the spring hanger and use a wrench to hold it. Bolt goes though the frame from the inside out after the hanger is bolted fast.

The last one I did like that took a 3/8 aluminum spacer to move the hanger/mount back on the passenger side. It is usually always the passenger side that has to come back . It would be nice to move the drivers front but that can only be done by Cutting the body or drilling the perch. You have to decide what what tools would make it easier for you.

You can PM me for my phone number if you get in a jam I would be glad to explain. Steve
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I also Had that on my car . They use the same mounting pad in the front. You will need to space the forward one back with a spacer to straighten the rear.

When doing this to make it easier to put the hanger on the front without the spring. The holes on the side in the frame should be enlarged to slide the large bolt that holds the spring through the frame. If you try to put the mount with studs into the hole you will find the nut won't let you get close enough to the frame. To do this cut the welded nut off of the front hanger/mount. This nut will be in the way. Put the nut on the outside of the spring hanger and use a wrench to hold it. Bolt goes though the frame from the inside out after the hanger is bolted fast.

The last one I did like that took a 3/8 aluminum spacer to move the hanger/mount back on the passenger side. It is usually always the passenger side that has to come back . It would be nice to move the drivers front but that can only be done by Cutting the body or drilling the perch. You have to decide what what tools would make it easier for you.

You can PM me for my phone number if you get in a jam I would be glad to explain. Steve
Click to expand...

I understand that explanation perfectly. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I also Had that on my car . They use the same mounting pad in the front. You will need to space the forward one back with a spacer to straighten the rear.

When doing this to make it easier to put the hanger on the front without the spring. The holes on the side in the frame should be enlarged to slide the large bolt that holds the spring through the frame. If you try to put the mount with studs into the hole you will find the nut won't let you get close enough to the frame. To do this cut the welded nut off of the front hanger/mount. This nut will be in the way. Put the nut on the outside of the spring hanger and use a wrench to hold it. Bolt goes though the frame from the inside out after the hanger is bolted fast.

The last one I did like that took a 3/8 aluminum spacer to move the hanger/mount back on the passenger side. It is usually always the passenger side that has to come back . It would be nice to move the drivers front but that can only be done by Cutting the body or drilling the perch. You have to decide what what tools would make it easier for you.

You can PM me for my phone number if you get in a jam I would be glad to explain. Steve
Click to expand...
great information and i guess ill be checking mine. where are you measureing from to make sure the axle is square under the car
 
I went off the torsion bar cross member. Thought I read off here that it's the straightest thing under there. Then I bought some round bar stock the size of the spring bolt hole , ran it between both weld in pieces. measured across everything, welded them in and then cut the bar out. finished off with welding the sliders on the back of the frame rail.

P1010718.JPG
 
Last edited:
So I'm moving my spring perches in, they measured 3 1/4" so 4" in from inside flange to the side of the perch. Teaches it in for tonight. Used the other side as my datum at 0 dog with my angle gauge so now I can cut other side off and tach it in as well. My question is while the tach welds were cooling I tried to put in my front mounts in looks like they are hitting a flange. I need to clean and paint the area before I put them in but was doing a test fit. How to you go about fitting these in. Looks like I need to drill a couple holes in the frame for the bolt. Larger on inboard and smaller on the outboard. Attached several pics.

IMG_4598.JPG


IMG_4599.JPG


IMG_4600.JPG


IMG_4601.JPG


IMG_4602.JPG


IMG_4603.JPG
 
Last edited:
70Roadkill said:
So I'm moving my spring perches in, they measured 3 1/4" so 4" in from inside flange to the side of the perch. Teaches it in for tonight. Used the other side as my datum at 0 dog with my angle gauge so now I can cut other side off and tach it in as well. My question is while the tach welds were cooling I tried to put in my front mounts in looks like they are hitting a flange. I need to clean and paint the area before I put them in but was doing a test fit. How to you go about fitting these in. Looks like I need to drill a couple holes in the frame for the bolt. Larger on inboard and smaller on the outboard. Attached several pics.

View attachment 1715060397

View attachment 1715060402

View attachment 1715060406

View attachment 1715060407

View attachment 1715060408

View attachment 1715060409
Click to expand...
never seen that exact type before but, are you sure you have that front perch the right way around - isn't the threaded nut supposed to be to the inside... as in toward the frame??
 
ScampMike said:
never seen that exact type before but, are you sure you have that front perch the right way around - isn't the threaded nut supposed to be to the inside... as in toward the frame??
Click to expand...

They are correct, if I swapped sides I'd move the springs more outboard. The stud spacing is correct compared to my originals. The nut is on the opposite side to ones I've seen online as well. I picked up these and the shackles for 40 bucks from a guy who was going to use them on a 68 dart but changed his mind.
 
I'm doing a1/2" spring relocation using dr diff kit.

Never even considered the frame being off, correcting that now will be a lot easier. Thanks for bringing that up.
 
Those mounts are a little different. Looks like multiple spring eye locations? Have to carve 2 sizable holes in the frame to accomdate bolts. One big hole on the driveline side and match the holes on the outboard side, leaving a wee bit of fudging room. That would stiffen up the entire assembly also. It probably relocates the spring in a true 3/4". Builder had the sense to gusset the inside of the bracket to stiffen up the double break on the out side. Very creative.
 
Unconventional said:
Those mounts are a little different. Looks like multiple spring eye locations? Have to carve 2 sizable holes in the frame to accomdate bolts. One big hole on the driveline side and match the holes on the outboard side, leaving a wee bit of fudging room. That would stiffen up the entire assembly also. It probably relocates the spring in a true 3/4". Builder had the sense to gusset the inside of the bracket to stiffen up the double break on the out side. Very creative.
Click to expand...

What I might do instead to strengthen it is cut about 3/4" or 7/8" hole both sides, then weld in a tube, run a long bolt so when I tighten it, it doesn't crush the rail and strengthens it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top