340 no can start

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mpaahana23

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340
changed the distributor brand new msd ready to run
hooked it all up

put it to zero top dead center rotor face the number one
get spark at number 1
but still no like start
get gas pressure is 6lbs holley blue
charged the battery
am I missing something
 
If you're getting gas, good spark, and compression, it should start as long as you don't have the timing off...

How did you determine TDC, dead stop tool or what ever is marked on the balancer???

Try to set the spark to 10° advanced to get it to start...
 
If you're getting gas, good spark, and compression, it should start as long as you don't have the timing off...

How did you determine TDC, dead stop tool or what ever is marked on the balancer???

Try to set the spark to 10° advanced to get it to start...
I have a line on the balancer put it to zero dropped the distributor in
 
I have a line on the balancer put it to zero dropped the distributor in


then it could be 180 off


Try pulling the #1 spark plug and put your finger on the hole while cranking it over, when you feel the pressure on your finger, that is the compression stroke - set it to TDC on that turn and put the distributor to TDC on #1 cylinder and then set it to 10° advance....
 
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have that timing light set up and ready to go - like Karl said - set to at least 10° advanced to get going
 
can I take it out then drop it in again 180?

Yes, with the slot in the distributor you can get right on or 180° off...

You need to verify that you set #1 to fire on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.... :BangHead:

It's common on mopar v-8's to drop the distributor in 180° off if you aren't paying attention... Just pull it out, rotate the rotor 180° and drop it back in...
 
Yes, with the slot in the distributor you can get right on or 180° off...

You need to verify that you set #1 to fire on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.... :BangHead:

It's common on mopar v-8's to drop the distributor in 180° off if you aren't paying attention...
so it wont start if it is at the exhaust stroke?
 
so it wont start if it is at the exhaust stroke?

No, you are trying to fire it with the intake valve open and can't build pressure...

Spark goes after the compression stroke with both valves closed so the expansion from the pressure can push the piston down... You need a "closed cylinder" for the pressure to efficiently push down on the piston...
Remember 4 stroke engines have two crank revolutions per cycle (One camshaft revolution)... So you need to spark on the proper TDC cycle to get combustion...
 
No, you are trying to fire it with the intake valve open and can't build pressure...

Spark goes after the compression stroke with both valves closed so the expansion from the pressure can push the piston down... You need a "closed cylinder" for the pressure to efficiently push down on the piston...
Remember 4 stroke engines have two crank revolutions per cycle (One camshaft revolution)... So you need to spark on the proper TDC cycle to get combustion...
ok ill try that
thanks
 
Well what does it actually do when you try to start it?
Any indication of fuel burn at all, or just crank?

Knowing what it does do would be a start to figure it out, because for all we know the positive on the distributor and/or coil are not getting power.
 
just crank
Getting spark out of the coil wire from the distributor when cranking?
If not ya gotta find out why.

While you have the distributor out, turn the key on and spin the distributor with your hand. Spark out of the coil wire?
 
If you think that you flood it while trying to start it, just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over until it starts...

The extra gas will eventually evaporate and you will get it to start...
 
If you think that you flood it while trying to start it, just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over until it starts...

The extra gas will eventually evaporate and you will get it to start...
I tried that yesterday
never work
 
If you think that you flood it while trying to start it, just hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over until it starts...

The extra gas will eventually evaporate and you will get it to start...

Karl, I feel like we need to know it if even has everything it needs to run first.
Then details like flooded or timing off.
The wet plug check wouldn't hurt anything to find out though, but it still won't start without spark and just keep washing cylinders.
 
true story - got my known to run 360 installed, set everything up and it wouldn't start.. tried a few times by adjusting the distributor left and right, still nothing. Checked some wires, good. Getting fuel? yep. Spark? you betcha - reset the dizzy to "about" where I remembered it being and tried again - nada. OK, did I install the dizzy 180 off? Changed it - rechecked everything again, tried it - STILL nothing.. well :wtf:? Adjust left, adjust right - zip. By now I have tried 6-8 times and the battery is fading.. time to quit, leave the battery on a charger - CU 2morrow.
Next day, same basic crap - only now the battery is spinning it up really nice.. tried a few mores times - now I'm getting that "thunk" sound I mentioned before - deep inside the engine.. like it's firing out the exhaust.. so I pulled the #1 plug... WOW - fouled heavy - very wet and very black. I took each one out, cleaned them off with a tooth brush and some carb. cleaner and reinstalled them.. Pumped it one time and hit it - VAROOM!
Moral of the story - sometimes it's the simplest damned things..
 
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