No power to anything

-
slimjim

slimjim

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
506
Reaction score
287
Location
Vallejo, CA
Although it's not an A body, it's still mopar so I figured this question would fit nicely here. I just came home after a 3 month period overseas and my 99 dodge 2500 v10 is completely cold iron. So without hesitation, I tossed in a new battery and attempted to fire it up. Nothing. Took the alternator in to get tested and it checks out just fine. I then popped open the fuse box and everything looked intact and good to go. I swapped a couple compadable relays but, still no power. I even brought out the multimeter to check the cables for corrosion or fried wires. Practically got zero resistance on all negative and positive cables. Does anyone else have any idea on what this electrical gremlin could be? It's not really my area of expertise
 
all the grounds we're checked and cleaned with some 320 sandpaper. Still no power. After the battery swap didn't work the grounds were the first place I checked.
 
Do you have any power to the TIPM( underhood fuse panel) at all? Test power with test light or digital volt ohm meter at pins to main fuses
 
Start by opening up the big power/ relay box under the hood. With a light or meter, ground to engine block, probe the two large studs. Both should be hot. Probe the big stud on the alternator, and that should be hot.

Measuring large power cables for resistance may be throwing you, as corrosion internally might make enough connection to read on an ohmeter.

You need to check stuff like that under power

Also wiggle some stuff with the key on and door open, and listen, watch for dome chime/ buzzer etc

Inspect those huge fuses I don't know what all they do without looking it up

I would think this is a "main" problem as those are so well fused, it would take a "key" circuit to dump everything.
 
I don't know but... During a beer drinking BS session, A fellow tech was telling me a bout some Chrysler product ( hd diesel truck if my memory serves ) that has a big link hidden underneath the main relay box. Pulled relays and found no power fed into any of them, much like a bad positive cable. He didn't say if it had corroded in two or burned open, just complained about hardly enough wire length to invert that box.
 
slimjim said:
............Does anyone else have any idea on what this electrical gremlin could be?
Click to expand...

Maybe something gnawing while you were away? This happened in just a matter of hours and it's not the first time....................

Squr4.gif
Squr3.gif
 
RedFish said:
I don't know but... During a beer drinking BS session, A fellow tech was telling me a bout some Chrysler product ( hd diesel truck if my memory serves ) that has a big link hidden underneath the main relay box. Pulled relays and found no power fed into any of them, much like a bad positive cable. He didn't say if it had corroded in two or burned open, just complained about hardly enough wire length to invert that box.
Click to expand...

This '01 gas I'm trying to fix up has a MUCH bigger relay box than the old 97. RIGHT BY THE BATTERY it has some acid damage, and not much slack. I'll probably have it out of there before long
 
Double check the battery feed to the (not sure called it then not a TIPM) but assume the main fuse box. My 2000 would loosen up until I put a lock washer on and cranked it as hard as I dared. Was always nervous about over tightening it and breaking off the post.
 
Alright I discovered that my battery charger was actually broken and reading improperly. I swapped out chargers and I now have power to the truck. I'm not able to get it started though. It'll crank once then click. I took out the starter and had it tested today (looks to be the original). It tested just fine. I was able to confirm 12.65v coming from the battery to the starter.
 
slimjim said:
Alright I discovered that my battery charger was actually broken and reading improperly. I swapped out chargers and I now have power to the truck. I'm not able to get it started though. It'll crank once then click. I took out the starter and had it tested today (looks to be the original). It tested just fine. I was able to confirm 12.65v coming from the battery to the starter.
Click to expand...
You may get the voltage, but not enough supply. Try doing a voltage drop test. If there is corrosion in the cable insulation, you will lose current and possibly cause your issue. They also have had ignition switch connector issues- there is a wiring kit available through the dealer due to these burning up. Drop the lower steering column cover and you will be able to see the connector. Any melting of the feed wires- definitely replace
 
Did the voltage drop test and found that I wasn't getting enough supply. Swapped the cables and got the same result. Swapped the battery from my dart and... voila. Turns out the brand new battery was actually a lemon.
 
Cool!!! I mean "cool that you got it." I've preached this a lot............just because it's "new" does not mean it's "good" (as in functional)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top