Beyond Frustrated - Wont start/stay running

It could be the ballast resistor. However it was to my understanding that if it was the ballast resistor the car would only run when key was in the start position. I can get it running (barely) for how ever short of time. I did put a new one on just in case and that did not help my situation.

I did part of the coil test suggested above. The test light was grounded, the key was on and the light shined bright once I touched the positive side of the coil. It also flashed during cranking when I touched the negative side of the coil. I did not try having the test lamp on the positive side of the coil and grounding the negative side... I will put that on my list to check. Thank you for that.

I guess to check whether or not the distributor wire is good is to test the resistance of said wire? and/or just attach an alligator clip to the negative side of the coil and the other side to the points?

What other adjustments do the points need to go through besides setting the dwell? I have the dwell set at approximately 42 deg (within the specification of the service manual)

I have heard of these new bad condenser issues... however I am on my 3rd new one from another supplier... Is there a way to test condensers? I read online that you would need an analog multi-meter and charge and discharge it with it. I dont have an analog meter but a digital one.

Could new points with barely 1000 miles already be burned? - I mean I guess if the ballast resistor started to lose resistance it could burn the points away quicker... Newby question, how do burnt points appear compared to used ones? I guess Ill have to check the ohms at the resister now. Ill put that on my to check list.

Wouldnt the coil test described by 67Dart273 prove it is a good coil?

I did pull the plugs and tried cranking to see a blue spark. I didnt see one when I tried to ground it with an alligator clip. But I am not to sure if that was because the battery voltage was low. having a hard time trying to test and investigate all this with a battery that cant charge in a car that doesnt run. I have a battery charger but it really cant keep up with all the cranking. But none the less, something I need to verify. Ill put that on the list to check.

Redfish. So you are suggesting either weak connections or the fusible link? I didnt touch the connectors at the firewall/ignition switch since the car has been put back together in 2008. I have put about 20000-25000 miles on it since. So if a connection problem was going to come to fruition wouldnt it have happened before now? your second point about the fusible link gone bad, how would I be able to check this?

Thank you everyone for taking time out of your day for helping me on this, I really appreciate it.