Toe-out is very dangerous and will make it wander, which was probably your problem. You probably could have seen that by sighting along the wheels with a 2x4 to see where they align on the rear wheels (if the widths are the same).
Every time I have had a pull to one side, it was in the tires. Indeed, I have a hard time seeing how a mis-alignment could make it pull to one side.
I agree with first going for max caster - rear UCA's max in, front UCA's max out. Then adjust for camber. Seem like moving the front in or the rear out would mess up the caster about the same amount, but most say to move the rear out. Using Moog "problem solver" offset bushings helps, but ignore their instructions which are opposite how you should install them. I used them just at the rear to save cost.
Toe-in is fairly easy to measure and adjust, and you should check that every 5 years since it is affected by ride height. If you have tires with straight channels, you can do it with a tape measure as I do (fwd to aft difference across front tires). I measure to where <1/8 turn of the steering coupler makes a difference, which is probably the best resolution the laser machines can do. The tricky part is splitting the difference left to right so the steering wheel is centered, and remembering which way to rotate the coupler. Make sure you get the tie rod balls centered before you tighten the couplers.